SatinDucky

Well, that depends on what kind of candle you're making and when you're putting the wick in If you mean to pour the candle with the wick in, like a container or votive, you have to use a tab. In a container, the only time you wont have to have it is when testing for wick size, then you wait until the candle is cooled and poke the hole with a skewer. Probably about the same thing with a votive. You could use a wick pin, then just stick the wick by itself in after the votive is in the holder to test. For a pillar, about the only way to get away without the tab is when you wick the mold before pouring. It's knotted on one end, then use a bar of some type (I use 2 wooden skewers held together with rubber bands) to hold the wick taut while the wax cools. There may be other times you can get away without one, but i can't think of any at the moment. More info would help

Some strange contraptions there...lol

I can understand wanting to get rid of the bubbles for some scenes, but with your shells/ocean scene, I think the bubbles add to it! I love it just the way it is. Ya know, if those bubbles really bother you....I could set it on my coffee table and you wouldn't have to see them anymore

That turned out great! Maybe one day I'll try again

Don't burn for 7 1/2 hrs? I have run across very few candles that will burn that long without some assistance. Like blowing it out to trim the wick, if it's not self trimming. Or letting it cool and hugging it. As for wicking after using wick pins, it's not hard. The wick should be primed (caoted with wax) and stiff. Measure the length you need, clamp a tab on one end and poke it through the bottom. The tab neck should hold it in place fine. Trim the excess wick, if any, from the top.

How much wax you coat on the wick beforehand has little or nothing to do with the strength. When you pour the candle, the wax mixes. If you want to be able to change wicks, a wick pin is your best bet. Unless the size/shape of the mold changes at the top or bottom of the mold, the height should not have anything to to with how it burns. You didn't mention what shape it is, just the dimensions. What wax and FO did you use? Is it possible you trimmed the wick too short before lighting? How does the melt pool look? Added: Keeping in mind, I use wick pins. However, when I make a tester, I leave an extra inch of wick hanging out on bottom, folded over. If I need to change, I use needlenose pliers. I grip the end with the tip of the pliers then wrapthe wick around the end. It makes it much less likely to shred the wick. If it isn't going to come out, it'll break off at the candle base.

What is mechanically extruded?

You'll need 4 parts total then. 3 parts of one, 1 part of the other. So you would divide by 4, ending up with 2.5. 3 x 2.5 of one, 1 x 2.5 of the other Ya beat me to it daniedb

Maybe I've read this wrong, but it seems like BMJ isn't referring to the wick tabs sliding, but a limp wick falling over and dousing itself. I've not used the cotton wicks much, but it sounds like you may need a stiffer wick like the zinc cores. I'm not familiar with a bean pot jar either Is it smaller at the bottom? If so, and you have a wick large enough for a full melt pool at the wider area, it may be too large for the bottom. From what I've seen, containers will liquefy when they get to the bottom. Just how deep the liquid wax is at that point may have to do with the wick size. If theres too much of the candle left when it completely liquid, that would account for it falling over. I'm not very experienced with containers, so hopefully someone else more knowledgeable will chime in here!

They turned out good! Can't help with wicking much, since I don't think I've heard of 4796, but with the 4625 I use a 24 ply flat. Maybe that'll help ya get started

Mine keep coming out with the tiny all over mottle. The first couple I did, with craft store wax, had some of the large flakes. Though I did notice that there was just a few spots when unmolded and more formed over the next day. I would love to figure out how to encourage the large spotted snowflakes

Wonder why it's supposed to have slits.... I can't seem to picture the mold

I haven't tried infusing them yet. The gals at work kept asking about them dipped, so that's what I'm trying. The bears with long fur are a bit harder to pic out, but I didn't fuss with it too much. The last ones were jointed bears with short fur and a bit easier. I just use a fork Speaking of yellowing.... the white Scraggles I did a couple weeks ago is now cream It's not even coloring either, the snout didn't turn as much as the long fur. I used 4625 with Lilac for it. Not so sure I like it now, guess I'll stick with brown/tan bears.

WTG Donita! I knew you could do it

Nope, they're plastic. Wilton baby favors

I've heard a number of people say the trick is to use the 24# paper like Sharyl mentioned. I haven't tried yet. My 20# paper and the candlemaker making it just don't work well

If adding more Fo than than the wax is designed for, stearic may be a useful additive. As far as I know, it is to solve the sweating out of excess oil. Of course, I may just be confused still

I only have a sample of it, but really like it. It's on my list to get next time. I don't know if it's dead-on or not because I don't have a magnolia tree, but it smell fabulous and strong. It smells like what it should in my mind A bit perfumey. HTH

If it was pale green, it could be mine. I sent 6 different scents

Very Beautiful

I really like those! I can't even imagine how long it took you with the layering and all the different colors. They are definitely different, but very appealing

I got a wild hair and decided to do a dipped bear basket for 2 gals at work that just had babies. They didn't quite come out like I wanted, but best I could do in a hurry...lol

I can usually hold my own with the search, but I can't find a damn thing on it either. And I remember reading it back then! Grrrr

Great job on both! I like the lighthouse best, but my daughter likes the other best. She's into wolves

Nice bright color