blueskys

tried to pull the old wick but the wick began to rip should i for future reference double dip the wick.i didn't know that it would tare but i may have to change my wicks in the future and i need to apply additional strengths to the wick so that if i need to pull out it will be ok

thats my goal and hopefully it will be acheived.so tell me exactly how long a day is a candle allowed to burn.i have burned a candle that i made for 54 hours throughtout a course of three weeks for 8 hours a day but didn't know that burning your candle wasn't on the person but yet your saying that the candle decides(bummer)well we'll see how the next candle i make survives my burning.I dont think the candle would mine since i am enjoying the look and smell

i thought that if your candles were drippless(no matter what type)that it was made correctly.I never want to give/sell a candle to someone that can possibly dripp over and messup the look of the candle.I want my candles to level down and never spill over can anyone tell me other wise(and break my heart)

i read a while back that a heat gun is used to assist in the securing of the reinserted wick can anyone confirm this

on how to do a serch on this new site.i am lookin for steps for rewicking,and using wick pins and was wondering if i can find this info when i do a search but cant get it started

it is tapered and the pin can be inserted from the bottom.I just need the steps for after pulling the pin out.I am not familar with this step.any assistance with this step would be greatly appreciated

lets say i use the wick pin when ready to pull out what a the next steps to reinsert a wick.never done before so i need instructions

never used this mold before so I am unable to do a comparison.i now have a few molds with this height.i purchased my FO from peaks and if it recommends only 1/2 (due to sugar contents )then i only use 1/2 per lb

how do you asure the wick is centered throughout the candle?

i made a pillar green and white mold was 3 x 9.5 additives were 1TSP of uv and 1 TBS of stearic.the wick was 24.the flam was so low i need to wick up to 30 but can someone tell me how to get the wick out without remelting the whole candle.I once read that if the diameter is 3 that a 24 ply flt will work not in this case does the height of the candle effect wich size wick to use.I have made other pillars and the 24 has worked but the height of the candle were 6" any input would help

mold was 1.75 x 3 x 9.5,wax 1343A,colors:smoke-sand-green wick size was 24 ply flt fo jasmine and the additived were 1/4 of vybar per color as well as 1 tTBS of staric per color(wax amount was 12 oz each.poured at 160 deg.came out great but at the test stage was the problem after 7 1/2 hours the wax began to tumble down.any ideas on how to fix?

I ordered two molds from Peaks.(1) is oblique 1.75-3 x 9.5 (holds 2 lbs of wax),(2)star 5 x6.5(holds 3 lbs 7 oz of wax).i want to make layer and I am not sure how much wax to use per color.with these molds i want atleast three colors. Then there is the amount of additives per color.I know that I only use 1 TBS of UA per lb but with the oblique each color has to be less then 1 lb,the same for the stearic.What can I do?I am trying to make creamy pillars using 1343A wax. with the star i think that i can melt 1lb 2oz per color and would be ok with the additives.Any suggestions?

lookin for the smooth creamy look.I will redo and pour at a higher point thanx

made with 4725,mold was 3 x 6.5,colors hunter green,kelly green and white scented with key lime.Per the directions for the swirl pillar.I used titanium dioxide although it didn't specify how much so I used 1/2 tsp of it but forgot to warm mold and it showed

this was made with 1343A,swirl mold,colors were mauve and pink,scented with jamaica me crazy,poured at 165 deg,additives are 1/4 vybar,1/2of stearic and 1/4Uv.cant describe the texture but it wasn't what i was lookin for maybe i poured to low any suggestions?here is a pic