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FlamingGlitter

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About FlamingGlitter

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  1. oh wow so I won't be expanding to Korea any time soon then haha. Thank you for your insight
  2. I've got the information from this publication posted by The British Candlemakers Federation, it's under the point "poison centre notification"
  3. Hey everybody, hope you're all doing well! I've been immersing myself in every kind of candle information possible, from sourcing of material, to marketing, to legal matters, to labelling, ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING to make sure I got all of my bases covered before going into business. Now I've just come across the requirement of adding Unique Formula Identifiers to labels and I was wondering if you guys have already tackled that requirement or if you will be waiting to do so when it becomes mandatory (January of 2021 if I remember correctly) x
  4. Oh wow thank you so much, I‘m flattered by your judgement! It doesn’t have any mushroom when it’s been burnt properly, but when it‘s power burned it has developed a moderately sized one. I just couldn’t find any real solid guidelines for how a candle should test in a power burn. Just found this video for regular 4hour testing (+ a testing procedure in the video description) I get the wax and wicks from a UK website (candle-shack.co.uk) and I‘ve been happy with it (take my opinion with a grain of salt, I haven’t used soy or paraffin as I was specifically looking
  5. Just trying to be as safe as possible, guess I‘m getting too caught up in it. Thank you!
  6. Hey everyone! I've been testing and researching like a maniac and thought I was getting so close! My small container candle (diameter: 67,5 mm, height: 80,5 mm; 150 g burning material) with RCX wax (coconut & rapeseed mix), no dye and a 9% FO load is burning (what I thought) wonderfully with a CL 6 wick. Cold and Hot throw are amazing, the melt pool diameter reaches edge to edge after about 3 hours, melt pool depth never exceeds 1 cm. I've been burning in intervals of 5-6 hours (due to my schedule), the flame doesn't exceed 2,5cm and the container temperature are what I thought to
  7. Interesting, thank you for sharing your experience! Weird that it always turns out different though 🙈
  8. I haven’t had the seeping or pooling issue but the throw was really bad, which usually isn’t the case with this wax. But I do see where you‘re coming from, I was just hoping this might be a possibility to increase throw even more (apart from using proper wick etc) I‘m sorry if it was dumb of me to ask but I‘ve seen this suggested in videos, even by a candle scientist. https://youtu.be/c7OnNZou2bU https://youtu.be/_akWOi6lug4 I definitely want to make my candles as safe as possible and am making sure I extensively test them. Do you happen to have a recommen
  9. Hey guys, I‘ve been doing so much research on all things candles that wax is running through my veins. During my research I‘ve found a method that suggests adding FO as cold as possible and pouring cold instead of manufacturer’s instructions of adding FO at a certain higher temperature. The reasoning for this method being that FO and wax doesn’t „bind“ as it‘s often proclaimed, but rather mixes/dissolves. And when FO is added at high temperatures it‘s being burned of, no „binding“ occurs. Now this reasoning sounds perfectly reasonable to me as 1) manufacturers often sell FO and when it‘s
  10. Oh no, I didn‘t notice I missed that. It means ‚smoking‘ basically, and ‚Brenndauer‘ is burn time. Must’ve overread when I translated it because I use mine in German. Damn it, I‘ll fix it, let me know if you need an update. Sorry
  11. Oh that‘s a good one! I might tweak it some more, thank you!
  12. It‘s actually 2 full A4 pages, I made it this way so it can be printed double sided. The second page is really just for continuing to document burn cycles (you can add the numbers of the burn cycle and/or just print the second page if you need even more burn cycles) Hope that made sense 🙈 you can also just use the first page if you‘d like
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