NightLight

Will look at soap calc again. I think they did 3 per cent super fat. ok interesting, so I put seems easy enough and no water discount with liquid? I want to do this because family loves Dr. Bronners but I hate the pricewith synth or essential oils, Will have to look up but does fragrance cause an issue with cloudiness. I know with some surfactants shampoo one you do have to use emulsifier for fragrance before putting into solution otherwise if wanting clear shampoo or hand wash it won’t be clear.

I am not sure how to input into soap calc. Would like to know thought on recipeposte and go with that, as I most likely will not make this into a big thing.

I have made cp and hp but have never have attempted liquid soap. Any thought on this recipe? A couple recipes I have seen include neutralizing with borax. This one doesn’t and seems easy enough to do for making Castile. Ingredients 24 oz weight (680 grams) olive oil 16 oz weight (454 grams) coconut oil 9.35 oz weight (265 grams) Potassium hydroxide lye flakes 32 oz (4 cups | 907 grams) distilled water, for lye-solution 10 to 12 cups distilled water, to dilute, plus extra as needed Instructions Make The Soap Paste Add the olive oil and coconut oil to a large, (6 quart minimum) crock pot. Turn the crock-pot on high. While the oils are warming, put on your safety gloves and goggles, and carefully measure the potassium hydroxide lye into a stainless steel or pyrex bowl. Measure the water into a medium stainless bowl or pyrex pitcher. Set the container with the water into your sink, then very carefully tip the lye flakes into the water. Stir to dissolve. When the oils in the crockpot are warm, carefully tip the lye solution into the oils. Leave the crockpot on high. Use an immersion blender to blend the oils and lye solution together. Immediately after adding the lye solution to the oils, blend for about 5 minutes, until the mixture looks uniformly opaque and begins to slightly thicken. For the next 30 minutes, come back and blend the soap paste about every 5 minutes. The mixture will get thicker and thicker, progressing through an icing texture to something like Elmer's glue. Cook Soap Paste When the soap mixture becomes too thick to blend with an immersion blender, lid the crock pot and cook the soap mixture for 3 hours on high. Every 30 minutes or so, come back and fold and stir the soap paste with a heat-resistant silicone spatula or heavy wood spoon to ensure the soap paste cooks evenly. As the soap cooks, it will become increasingly translucent, moving from a runny white liquid to a puffy taffy texture to, eventually, a yellowy-clear, thick, translucent gel. Test Soap Clarity After 3 hours, or once the paste looks fully translucent and gelled throughout, check the soap with a clarity test. Measure out an ounce of soap paste (about a golf-ball sized blob will do it). Add 4 oz (1/2 cup) of boiling or very hot water to the soap paste. Stir gently until the soap paste is totally dissolved. Allow the dilute soap to cool. If the soap is opaque, or if a scum of oils floats to the surface, continue cooking your soap paste for another hour before re-testing. If the dilute soap is clear (it needn't be colorless, just translucent), proceed with dilution. Dilute the Soap Paste Add 10 cups water to the soap paste in the crockpot. Break up the soap paste into the water as best you can but don't worry about the paste dissolving fully. Lid the crock pot and turn the heat to warm for 8 hours or overnight. If you happen to walk by, give the soap a stir to help it along but don't worry if you can't. After 8 hours, if you notice chunks of remaining soap or thick skin of soap forming even after the chunks of soap dissolve, add another cup or two of water to further dilute the paste. Bottle Soap When your soap is fully dissolved with no chunks of soap paste remaining, ladle your dilute soap into a perfectly clean and dry 1-gallon glass or plastic jug. Recipe by Northwest Edible Life at https://nwedible.com/how-to-make-diy-liquid-castile-soap/

It’s def a blender wax, not a main wax. Good additive in some amounts.

Don’t feel bad we all have whoopsies. Make that batch of candles and forget the fragrance? Hahaha. Mise En Place! Do try adding sodium lactate, it does amazing things for hot process!

True that but no thanks to open products on shelves that have been there for who knows how long. The myth LUSH pushes is made fresh every day, but the products in the stores are not fresh. Tons of open jar testers. I think in the new world things will be more packaged as they are in Japan.

I was going to say castor oil as well, I never use more than 5 per cent. But Lye for sure can be an issue. Have you been adding extra fragrance at all? I would try new lye with recipe try new lye with addition of sodium lactate- sodium lactate in your hot process will help harden it and it will make your soap more fluid. if you haven’t tried it with hot process it helps.

As we are not sure of your waxes, you may have to experiment a bit. Here’s what you can try. 75 percent paraffin whatever is easier for you to get, then add 25 per cent coconut oil. This should help with adhesion and burn. As you have hot weather you will have to see how this blend holds up. You could also do paraffin in a solid color container and worry less about adhesion, just go for a proper burn and scent throw.

I was able to use preneutralized and gel it by mixing it with glycerin, to prevent fisheyes and clumping, adding some di water then 70 percent. It was okay. Carbomer is not the best for this. This is better Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer There are other emulsifier types you can make aquaholics. You do not want 91 alc. it dries too fast. Sanitizing is recommended 70 percent because it dries slower, kills more. Remember Lab Rat?

If you do blend commercial aloe gel which has carbomer in it already, it holds only so much alcohol before turning into watery mess. You MUST blend not shake, to get the gel and alcohol to be cohesive. It works very well, but keep in mind you are blending alcohol 😳

Sarah ask Talltayl about C1 wax. C1 was before C3. Lots of fans of both waxes. I would tame C3 if that’s what interests you. you could get a sample bag of 464 and compare to C3 - that kind of a/b testing is very helpful. Everyone has a favorite wax. NatureWax C-1 is an all-natural, soy and palm wax blend with great hot and cold scent throw. It is the first generation of Cargill waxes and still holds a significant following today as it's preferred for its glass adhesion that minimized wet spots, frosting, and pull-away. C-1 wax has minimal fat bloom and sink when cooled properly and works with powder and liquid dyes as well as all types of fragrances. Use it plain as container wax or as a blend to create pillar candles. It's creamy, opaque, and mostly single-pour. However, it sometimes requires a second pour or minimal touchup. Make-Up: Soy and palm blend Form: Flake Pour Temperature: 110°-135° Melt Point: 124°-130° Fragrance Load: Up to 8% NatureWax C-3 is an all-natural soy wax. It finishes creamy and opaque and is preferred for its glass adhesion that minimizes wet spots, has little to no frosting, and has the ability to single-pour without additives. A great all-around container wax, it throws fragrance well, works with powder and liquid dyes, and holds color well. C-3 is known and loved for being simple and producing consistent results. Use it plain as container wax, for tealights, or as a blend to create pillar candles. Make-Up: 100% Soy Form: Flake Pour Temperature: 120°-165° Melt Point between 124°-130° Fragrance Load: Up to 6% Kosher certified MADE in the USA

I have a candle from PF. Does not leave residue, but I can tell you that candle is way over wicked. Full meltpool in five minutes. i have only burned it partially, but I know it’s going to be a flamethrower at bottom. Yes the glass is clean, but not what I call a great candle. C3 to me does leave a bit of residue but the payoff is great hot and cold throw and it has amazing adhesion if you get pour temp down and your glass is clean. It’s all experimentation, and how much of this and that you want for you candles. Add paraffin you get other issues, but you get plumes too. Finding the balance is what you get by experimenting with percentages.

Oh never saw all the other soap info on site before! Thanks. I have citric acid on hand.

Try EBay or etsy

Hi Everyone, Quarantine is soap time. I have EDTA, but want to switch to sodium citrate or citric acid. What percentage do you guys use? I am convinced EDTA give soap an odor. 🤷‍♀️

From LUSH Given what we know today, we believe it’s our duty as an ethical business to do what we can to slow the spread of this virus and minimize the impact on our hardworking healthcare professionals. As such, we have decided to temporarily close all 258 Lush retail stores across Canada and the US from March 16-29.Because our products are all made fresh by hand weekly for our shops, these closures will also require us to significantly scale down our manufacturing and distribution operations for the duration of the shop closures. We are working through how we can best support our employee base” I would hope they rethink the stores and product packaging for the future to be more sanitary.

How can anyone in their right mind by products not wrapped at LUSH stores. Before the virus I thought it was gross - 6 years wipes nose with hand picks up bath bomb, but now even worse. I got an email saying they are cleaning stores but what about all the products in the store that are exposed. It makes me crazy!

I just spoke with Accublend and they were business as usual.

No usa

Yes Candlewic did respond, to give actual rates rather than just on website which is exorbitant. I’m on East coast and want sample of wax but the shipping was liked double of the sample. Much higher than other websites for shipping. I have crossed them off my list because of shipping costs.

I wrote them and complained. If you write them about placing order and telling them the shipping issue prices they will adjust. Don’t you think they would work on the shipping problem? I complained to Fillmore and now the shipping is more reasonable.

You must at 180 degrees and above. The wax is very liquid and all the fragrance molecules can really get into the wax. Candles fragrances are hardy. Ones that may not throw well they are probs not strong anyway. You really do need to stir well.

It’s very much learning about waxes. You know how different waxes perform, and how much of one to add to another. Same with scents, some are good company for each other, and well you combine two and get a real stinker. How do you get to Carnegie Hall? practice, practice, practice.

It’s practice and learning like making candles. You have to learn components scent profiles, then learn how to combine. It can be done simply or very complicated. This https://www.edenbotanicals.com/aftelier-natural-perfume-wheel.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp1430-1&sc_intid=1430-1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJTlxKyS6AIVi4rICh0hRgISEAQYASABEgLa9PD_BwE

Here is a beginners guide https://www.soapguild.org/how-to/ingredients/beginners-guide-to-fragrance-blending.php Speaking Fragrance As we said in the beginning of this article, fragrance blending is a complex and extensive art form that is not mastered overnight. The best thing to do when you decide to blend your own scents is to become familiar with some of the terms and definitions you will commonly find while learning about fragrance blending and perfumery. Note(s): Notes in fragrance blending and perfumery describe the level, intensity and vibrancy of scents detected in a blend. There are three classes of notes: top (head), middle (heart), and base notes. Top Note: Also referred to as a "head note", top notes are the scent that is recognized immediately upon smelling the blend. Top notes form a consumer's first impression, and play a key part in sales based on their appeal. Usually, top notes are described as "assertive", "robust" or "strong". Some examples of top notes are: lavender, lemongrass, peppermint, eucalyptus, and bergamot. Middle Note: Also referred to as the "heart note", middle notes can be described as the scent that becomes apparent just as the top note is dissipating. Typically described as "well rounded" or "mellow". Some examples of middle notes are: rose, marjoram, cinnamon, chamomile, and tea tree. Base Note: Base notes are best described as the scent that appears just as the middle note is disappearing. Some examples of base notes are: frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, and vanilla. Aroma: A term used to describe the sensation between taste and smell. This sensation can be invoked by scents like vanilla, chocolate or coffee. Cloying: A descriptive word for a smell that is excessively or "sticky" sweet. An example of this would be cotton candy fragrance oil. Earthy: A descriptive word for a scent that smells of freshly overturned earth, roots and a mustiness. For example, oakmoss and vetiver. Floral: Describes flower type scents, such as rose or lilac. Dry: A scent that can be described as lacking in the dewy or watery element that brings to mind crisp vegetables or fruits. A dry scent can be mineral-like or woody. Bitter: Describes a smell that is without sweetness and "sharp". Not always an unpleasant quality, when utilized properly. Flat: A blend or scent lacking in richness and variety; can be perceived as bland. Forest/Woodsy: Described as an earthy or mossy scent. For example, cedar and oak. Fresh: A scent that energizes the person smelling it. Typically, this will nature-inspired or citrusy scents. Herbaceous: Scents that are also frequently used in cooking and have a warm, earthy smell. For example, rosemary and basil. Medicinal or Camphorous: Pungent scents that have been used for the treatment of a variety of ailments. For example, eucalyptus and tea tree. Minty: A strong, crisp smell; usually associated with cleanliness. For example, pepperming and spearmint. Oriental: Warm, tangy scents. For example, patchouli and ginger. Fruity: Evokes the thought of fresh, ripe edible fruits. Citrus: A crisp, clean smell produced by citrus fruits like orange, lemon and lime. Spicy: Pungent notes like cinnamon and ginger that give a pleasant (or sometimes unpleasant) warm sensation. Sweet: Can be described as a scent that shares characteristics with a sweet taste. Fungal: Scents like mushrooms or mold are categorized as fungal. Green: A family of scents comprised of smells like fresh cut grass or a warm, live forest. Harmonious: In fragrance blending, harmonious indicates a blend that is well balanced and unified using amicable scents. Harsh: The opposite of harmonious; unbalanced, unpleasant. Light: Typically a non-sweet, non-cloying fragrance with a prevailing fresh note. Depth: This refers to the complexity and richness of the blend; full-bodied is also used to describe this sensation. Profile: The makeup of the blend and notes within. These are just some of the many terms and definitions used when blending fragrances; this is by no means the comprehensive and definitive list of all terms. Blending Basics As with any project, taking the proper safety precautions when blending fragrances is very important. Wearing gloves and goggles or glasses will ensure that you do not get the oils you are working with in your eyes; an unpleasant sensation that will take away from your blending experience for sure! Safety: check. Now it's time to take a look at what scents blend well together to create a harmonious, pleasant scent! Generally, oils that share a category will blend well. Here are a few examples to get you started: Florals: Blend well with woodsy, citrusy or spicy oils (think cedar, cinnamon, orange). Woodsy: These oils are versatile because they can really be combined with any of the categories (floral, earthy, herbaceous, minty, medicinal, spicy, oriental or citrus). Spicy: Spicy scents blend well with floral, citrus and oriental oils, but be mindful not to overpower your blend with the spicy oils. Oriental type oils also share these matches, and the same risk of overpowering a blend; use sparingly for the best results. Minty: Minty oils blend well with citrus, woodsy, herbaceous and earthy oils. Now that you've got an idea of what oils go together, think about how you will blend them. Starting out small with a new mixture is the key to perfecting the blend; start out with drops in increments of 5 (5, 10, 15, 20, etc). Try not to exceed 20 drops total; a small scale like this will give you plenty of wiggle room to add as you like, without producing as much waste if you do not like the results. Speaking of waste, skip the carrier oils and alcohol during your formulation process to avoid wasting them if you are not happy with how your blend has turned out. Establishing a ratio for your blends is also important. A common ratio for beginners: 30&percent; top notes, 50&percent; middle notes, and 20&percent; base notes. The beauty of fragrance blending, like any other creative art form, is that there are no strict rules; this is merely a suggestion to get you started. Tweak and configure your ratio to fit your desired scent. Once you have blended your oils, let them sit for a bit; it can be tempting to use them immediately, or dislike them immediately. Instead, let them sit for a few days to allow the chemicals to truly interact and round out your blend. Keeping Track Keeping your blends organized is crucial in the creative process. Keep a notebook or binder detailing the contents of each blend. Include things like the name of the supplier you received your oils and carriers from, the contents of the notes, and pros and cons of the scent. Describe what you enjoy about the scent, or what it reminds you of. Also, it is a good idea to note whether the scent changed after being left for a number of days, and if it was allowed to sit, how long this process took. Recording your recipe in detail like this will help you to revisit your best or worst blends intuitively, and either improve upon them or use them time and again with continued success. In addition to keeping a notebook, make sure to label the bottles you are storing your blends in clearly and neatly; if the name or combination is too long, you can use numbers instead to correspond with the description in your notebook or binder to make things a bit easier. Make sure that the outside of your container is clean Final Thoughts Blending fragrances is an intense practice in patience and creativity. Mastering fragrance blending is no easy feat, and can take years to accomplish. The most important part of this process is to remember that, although there are guidelines for blending to help streamline the creative process, no two blenders employ the exact same techniques. Use your own preferences and vision for your product to determine its contents; each sense of smell is different; what smells a bit questionable to you might be someone else's new favorite scent! NOTE: Some material in the How-To Library is limited to R Registered Users or M Members. If you Login or Register you can take advantage of more available content. More: Fragrance Blending Fragrance Blending Natural Perfumery 101 with Lori Nova Endres Rate This Page! You must Log In or Register to rate pages in the How-To Library. What People Are Saying