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CP Soapers: Why Did You Choose CP over M&P?


glasllyn

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21 hours ago, Moonstar said:

The Goats milk and the honey one is pretty good from WSP. I also like the coconut one - the clear -and oatmeal . Glasllyn I always choose the detergent free 

from WSP. I don't know why but Im so nervous to try CP . I find that Im my own worst enemy at times. Maybe I'm afraid of failing IDK ??? I really want to 

try Candybees recipe - it sounds awesome ( Goat milk oats + honey soap ) I should just go for it ! lol ! 

 

I'm looking at these soaps. Are these what you're referring to?

https://www.brambleberry.com/SFIC-Shea-Melt-And-Pour-Soap-Base-P3192.aspx

https://www.brambleberry.com/SFIC-Soap-C647.aspx

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1 hour ago, Jcandleattic said:

As well as all this, 100% CO soap can get very warm very fast, and if you let it sit too long in the mold (usually longer than 6-12 hours) then it can be very difficult to cut. Also, it may be prone to overheating. Not really a beginner recipe even though it does seem very simple. 

 

I would suggest a 100% Olive Oil soap as more of a beginner type recipe, with a typical 5-8% superat. However then you have the long cure time. 

no castor oil just Olive oil ? Ive read OO soap requires 1 year cure - is this accurate ? Does it lather well or more conditioning ?

 

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25 minutes ago, glasllyn said:

yes, bit I purchased mine from wholesale supplies plus - but theirs is not the SFIC brand . What state are you in - BB is way too far for me to order from

Im out east /mid west and shipping would be a killer . Peak carries that brand as well . I buy the detergent free from WSP 

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18 minutes ago, Moonstar said:

yes, bit I purchased mine from wholesale supplies plus - but theirs is not the SFIC brand . What state are you in - BB is way too far for me to order from

Im out east /mid west and shipping would be a killer . Peak carries that brand as well . I buy the detergent free from WSP 

 

I'm in Massachusetts. Seems like nothing really local to me.

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18 minutes ago, Moonstar said:

no castor oil just Olive oil ? Ive read OO soap requires 1 year cure - is this accurate ? Does it lather well or more conditioning ?

 

 A 100% olive oil soap is a castile soap. Its a very mild soap. For castile soap or 100% olive oil you can't beat one that has cured for a long time. Some cure theirs for up to 2 yrs before use.

 

Personally I prefer olive oil + castor oil instead of 100% olive oil. To me 100% OO soap feels slimy and doesn't lather. Add a bit of castor oil and you have nice creamy lather plus I cut down the cure time and use mine after a couple months cure.

 

Curing castiles is a matter of preference and can be very personal. So the only way to be sure is to make your own and lay out a few bars and cure them for different lengths of time. Try one at 6 months, one at 1 yr, and one at 2 yrs and see if which you like best.

 

There is no hard and fast rule for curing. But I rely on the experienced soaper to give me a recommendation and then test it out on my own and see what I like. I also have to keep in mind that I offer my soaps for sale to the general public so I don't want to sell soaps that haven't turned milder by not curing them properly.

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47 minutes ago, Moonstar said:

no castor oil just Olive oil ? Ive read OO soap requires 1 year cure - is this accurate ? Does it lather well or more conditioning ?

 

some people add castor, but for a true Castile soap, just 100% OO. It doesn't "require" a 1 year cure, but the longer it sits, (yes for up to a year) the better it gets. It's more conditioning than lathers well, which is why some people add the castor or coconut. 

I say 100% is a good beginner recipe because there is not math, no percentages to try and figure out, it's just a straight up easy recipe to navigate. 

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20 minutes ago, Jcandleattic said:

some people add castor, but for a true Castile soap, just 100% OO. It doesn't "require" a 1 year cure, but the longer it sits, (yes for up to a year) the better it gets. It's more conditioning than lathers well, which is why some people add the castor or coconut. 

I say 100% is a good beginner recipe because there is not math, no percentages to try and figure out, it's just a straight up easy recipe to navigate. 

Thank you : ) 

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38 minutes ago, Candybee said:

 A 100% olive oil soap is a castile soap. Its a very mild soap. For castile soap or 100% olive oil you can't beat one that has cured for a long time. Some cure theirs for up to 2 yrs before use.

 

Personally I prefer olive oil + castor oil instead of 100% olive oil. To me 100% OO soap feels slimy and doesn't lather. Add a bit of castor oil and you have nice creamy lather plus I cut down the cure time and use mine after a couple months cure.

 

Curing castiles is a matter of preference and can be very personal. So the only way to be sure is to make your own and lay out a few bars and cure them for different lengths of time. Try one at 6 months, one at 1 yr, and one at 2 yrs and see if which you like best.

 

There is no hard and fast rule for curing. But I rely on the experienced soaper to give me a recommendation and then test it out on my own and see what I like. I also have to keep in mind that I offer my soaps for sale to the general public so I don't want to sell soaps that haven't turned milder by not curing them properly.

Thank you Candybee :) - if I were to add castor oil what would the % be ? 

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Another plus for cold process... all those ils can be multitaskers! You can make lotions, balms, butters, creams, scrubs, liquid soaps, laundry and dish soap and more. 

 

On olive oil soaps, I find using milks instead of water made for a really nice soap with a shorter cure time needed.

 

if making 100% coconut oil soap for the first time, just use individual molds. Those seasonal silicone molds always go on sale and make nice size bars for every day use. 

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52 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Another plus for cold process... all those ils can be multitaskers! You can make lotions, balms, butters, creams, scrubs, liquid soaps, laundry and dish soap and more. 

 

On olive oil soaps, I find using milks instead of water made for a really nice soap with a shorter cure time needed.

 

if making 100% coconut oil soap for the first time, just use individual molds. Those seasonal silicone molds always go on sale and make nice size bars for every day use. 

Thanks TT ! Love this forum + all you guys - I learn so much from all of you :) 

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I had done a bit of MP but really didn't enjoy it.  Then I found CP and started with basic recipes and fell in love with it.  I like the artistic side and the scientific side.  I like making and tweaking recipes.  It has become an addiction as well therapy for me.  Some folks can make really beautiful MP I'm not one of them.

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23 minutes ago, Shari said:

I had done a bit of MP but really didn't enjoy it.  Then I found CP and started with basic recipes and fell in love with it.  I like the artistic side and the scientific side.  I like making and tweaking recipes.  It has become an addiction as well therapy for me.  Some folks can make really beautiful MP I'm not one of them.

I understand the scientific side part. It's one of the reasons I love making perfume. You can start with all of these separate components and end up with something that is this a nothing like the individual elements, but more of a complex chord. 

(Also, you could end up with total crap.)

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I started with MP because I was intimidated by working with lye and I felt I wasn't patient enough for the 4-6 week cure time of CP soaps.  But, I'm a control freak and really wanted to know exactly what was going into my soaps.  I also loved the beautiful designs I saw everyone doing with CP.  I was able to make some nice looking MP soaps but they still didn't look or feel as moisturizing or luxurious as soaps made from scratch.  I wanted to be able to customize soaps on a whim or at the request of a customer without having to order bases.  It's definitely addicting! I have a good amount of clear base and triple butter base left.  I guess I'll be using them as embeds. 

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