Henryk

For soy containers I've been using 51C to 62C from http://www.kycandlewaxsupply.com/wick.htm Though I have always gotten good service from KY - I am going to start getting the wicks from Candlewic as I order other things from there and can consolidate my ordering http://www.candlewic.com/candle-wicks/standard-wick-assembly.asp . I do have extra bases so when I cut the wicks I can reuse what is left. The flat and square braids are the only wicks I prime myself, which I only do if I use wick pins in pillars, otherwise, I do not prime them if prewicking the mold - and I only really do that with beeswax. Its hard to gauge things when a supplier does the "small - medium - large - xlarge" thing" so I usually stay away from them because IMO you really need to know exactly what wick size you are actually using for testing. For instance, I wish I knew what size zinc the "Yaley Small Wire Wick" is because its working really great in my soy tea lights

Tin is magnetic, aluminum is not. If you are happy with the shine you have then that is what matters!

YES I DO You should be able to get the acacia (olive color) and the yellow to burn on its on in 3" pillars - now the brown I've used only in tapers. If you are mixing it with container soy you really only want to go to about 3% or so - and the color change will not really be noticeable. Personally, I would use good filtered white beeswax pellets to mix with soy - soy is hard enough to burn on its own plus the pellets are much easier to work with for that type of project. JMO.

Ditto what Meridith said Do this: Go down one size on your wick. (and/or) Cut back on the oil percentage. (FO) If the FO doesn't work in soy at 6% I would personally would not use it. When I use FOs I do not use them above 6%. I use only plain old cotton wicks in plain 100% soy now - and honestly, if its wicked right, you should only get the smallest of mushrooms even with power burns - most definitely nothing that should interfere with burns. (Yes, even with cottons). Also want to say, one will almost always get a larger mushroom on the very first burn then on subsequent ones. Finally, (most won't like this), let your candles sit a couple weeks before burning to make a final judgement - 24 hours is not enough. Not saying this for throw - its something about the wax - they really do burn better IMO. HTH

Paraffin in tin molds with c-15 !

Nat - did you ever come across my post on testing on the old board of a little over two years ago? I was testing the same thing - perhaps there is some info in it that you can use? http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1102308269;start=0#0

Sorry, go to the main Vegetable Wax Candle forum page, and then choose "Search This Forum" - that should get you what you want. I think its the same principle as with the fat crystals in chocolate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chocolate#Tempering

Are you talking about actual wax or a film of oil? Like this? http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28474#25 If so, some soy waxes do that more than others no matter how hot the jar gets.

What you're doing is tempering the wax. I do it by melting it, then letting it sit until its almost set up, then turning back on the heat and stiring it until its just pourable then pouring it. (Don't even use a thermometer after the first melt). Search this forum for "temper" and you can read more about it.

The >200F for a time didn't work for me either - I tried EVERYTHING - additives where the only thing that helped. I'm sure Satin remembers those threads! Donita, that is REALLY strange that you mentioned what you did, I've been using the candlewic waxes lately (not that I've been pouring tons of pillars), and I have NOT come across that fingernailing issue. I'd forgotten all about it actually. I'll have to try it and see if I can make them show up again in this heat.

Sorry I didn't make that more clear (I assumed "IGI" would be enough as the only parasoy blend they make (AFAIK) is the 6006). I do mean the paraffin container blends. I didn't think they would publish that, but I thought maybe some of the pros on this board who have worked and tested so much with them would be able to do a rough inference. I ask because I have read about the petrolatum additive, and it states a % recommendation and that too much can yield to smoking/sooting issues. I have ALSO read many times on this board that some people - even the seasoned professionals - have given up on certain blends because of smoking issues even though they have tried all sorts of wicks. (paraphrasing things like, "I love the looks and the one-pour - I just could never wick it right") So, my inference was, the less petroleum in the wax, the less wicking troubles one may have. Since I'm not at all an expert in paraffin container wax blends, I was hoping to avoid at least some issues. Thanks!

No, you should NOT have to re-cure it. Also, why go through all that time and energy expenditure to remelt? Pour your test container without a wick and let it set up. Take a metal skewer and poke a hole and insert your test wick. Burn it. If the wick is completely the wrong size you will know it on the first burn (for example way too small). If it almost makes it to the end burn it another time or two to check your melt pool and make sure the glass is not getting too hot, flame too big etc. Now, if you have to change the wick during the test burns just wait until it sets up and pull it out and insert a new one - no need to remelt. Once you think you have the correct size, pour one secured with a tab and burn it all the way down. (Air currents, how the heat is held in the jar, sooting issues, all change at the bottom of the jar as opposed to the surface). I just had to do this this past week, I poured a 2.75 inch container with a really easy to melt soy wax (115F MP) and put in my usual wick, but had to go a full size up just because I changed to a different FO - it took a total of 15 minutes of testing to get to what I think will be the right wick. (Now all I have to do is sit back and burn the candle thorugh the bottom). HTH!

Something that may make your testing go easier - concentrate on ONE jar type/size first, get the wicking right for that jar. Once that happens you can extrapolate for other diameters and your "guestimates" of what wick to use will be much more acurate - you'll save time and money. This is assuming the jars of the same type. For instance you can do this with all straight-sided containers, but I would not when going from a straight-sided (like a tumbler) to one with a neck (like an apothecary or mason) which will hold more heat in the jar. HTH!

Another one for the container blend experts (sorry for all my questions lately on this). The IGI container waxes - can anyone rank them in order of how much petrolatum they may have? I'm assuming the softer and more "one pour" of the waxes would have more of it ? No ?

This is becoming a good thread with the wicking and all ... I guess I should have said least opaque. I've seen some containers blends and they look like soy. There is no "glow" at all in the container. When I tried 6006 which is a para/soy blend, I distinctly remember it glowed MUCH more than plain soy. That's kind of where I was going with the question. Thanks!

Wow - Sorry, I did read that completely wrong. Its easy when you have things like Luster Crystals, which actually is a white powder.

The smaller stuff is just like sand - imagine grinding that between your fingers. The larger stuff is like larger salt crystals, you can move it between your fingers also, but it shouldn't cut you (it won't pulverize like sugar). The only thing is if you had it on your hands and wiped your eyes - that I probably would avoid. Its not dumb - I thought of the same thing when I first came across it! ... Satan

You may want to look at the Red and/or the Burgundy dye block from French Color. I just purchased some but haven't used them yet. I have used the Burgundy French color liquid for Christmas candles last year and they came out great. The blocks however have no odor whatsoever. There are a couple colors of the diamonds (I have them all) that will leave some sediment (most of which can be eliminated if the wax is taken up to a high enough temperature) - and I'm pretty sure the cinnamon is one of them - and I think I remember the browns. The French blocks are supposed to completely dissolve. BTW Candlescience has the diamonds also - thats where I got them and they have tons of colors. HTH

Finally Candlwic is selling wicks in 100 pack bags - AND they are 8" long! So one can do a full 6" pillar and actually have enough wick! Now, if they can just sell a big sample pack that would be great. (Though they have sent me free samples when I asked). Just an FYI

DW actually bought me something like that for a gift - its a geode (layered kind, not the kind with crystals in it) and thats exactly what it is. Its cut in half, and has a tealight hole in it and when you light it, it glows really nice. Not an answer for you, but the thought did cross my mind that this is something you may have better luck if you asked in a lapidary group. Ooops - not geode, agate (I'm not a rockhound) These are what they look like: http://www.littlegemsrockshop.co.uk/acatalog/T_Light_Holders.html. Turns out there are tons of these holders out there: http://www.rockcandles.com/candleholders.html

I think that is the "scoop" wax right ? Maybe I'll have to give it a try after researching the board on issues. Thanks!

I know this is an odd request, but for those of you that have tried them, can you tell me what is the most "transparent" IGI container wax? I want to do some containers that kind of "glow". Thanks!

Yes, I've used one, but just on top. Here is a pic of the larger type: Hope the pic helps to show what its like. They have a smaller type too, but its REALLY small - like dust, I like the larger because it shows up better IMO.

Some pics and discussion http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1082318659 .