Henryk

I've been using the ones from KY for years to store dye chips/flakes/additives/etc (both sizes) and tarts before doing the clamshell thing - and they are REALLY nice - clear, heavy, good seal. I don't need to buy in bulk so it works for me.

Hi Top, Are you sure there aren't different types? I'm positive I got my clear crystals, which I'm looking at right now, from candlechem last summer (I keep emails of orders so I can know what I got from where) and they look different from the aroma beads I got from BCN a good while ago. The Aroma Beads are MUCH smaller, rounder, while the clear crystals are much larger, irregular-sized, and flattened. Maybe they changed suppliers since then or they were manufactured differently?

I've tried beeswax in aluminum molds - pillar molds - both round and square. If you are going to do it, make sure they are completely clean* - spray with a good mold release and pour just when the BW is melted, about 150 or so. Then cool totally. Then, when you think they are positive they are cooled - put them in the fridge for 1/2 an hour. Then remove. Should work but will still be a tight squeeze. Rubber and silicone molds with BW is just so much easier *Clean because you will find that you will get a sheen on the BW surface with metal molds - and if you have any filmy areas inside the mold when you pour - those areas will leave a matte finish on the candle. Doesn't look good.

I bet I know just what you are talking about. Have you tried department stores (china and crystal departments?) Root Candles makes a type that is an example: http://www.davlinswoods.com/Pictures/RootCollenette.JPG (Website: http://www.rootcandles.com/shop/product.cfm?CatID=8&GroupType=0 )

Here are some shades of browns in the chips http://candlescience.com/color/reddigglo-dye-chips.php and if you don't have to have chips, these are flakes are really too http://www.bittercreek.net/ .

Hi Marsha, I unfortunately don't have any good advice for you, except for what others have said, try a parasoy blend (and wick way down from soy) I've not tried it, but I have heard good things about taylored concepts waxes also - they even have a 50/50 blend. Just to throw even another wax at you. Good luck - if anyone can conquer this problem I know its you!

Thank you all for your responses! I was just confused because I assumed, I guess wrongly, that all container blends contained some petrolatum? And here you could actually do it, if you wanted to that is, with just a low MP straight paraffin and other additives. Thats where I was confused.

I noticed a supplier selling a straight paraffin (130 MP) for use in containers. I thought you had to use a container blend for paraffin containers? They do mention to perhaps use vybar or UA, but does this mean that ANY straight paraffin with a low enough MP can be used for containers?

http://www.ngiwax.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=18

Thanks! I used a couple colors only - I think it was burgandy and bayberry one xmas - and I think both had an odor that carried over into unscented candles - though I loved the color, so I thought maybe I could get the best of both worlds with their blocks. Top, if you happen to revisit this thread, what do you think of their UV blocks?

Has anyone used the FC dye blocks? I want to try them because I heard these unlike some others don't have any indissoluble particles. I know the liquid dyes can have a solvent odor, but having not used the blocks (any type actually), I was wondering if they have any residual solvent odor at all. Thanks very much.

Michaels. I think they were 99 cents. I've seen one other type - but the ones there were thicker.

I'm not sure if these are it or not -- http://www.creativegemsmolds.com/store/view_product.php?product=T-L3S6AW7 -- I got the impression that the holers she sent me were something new she was working on - and they seem to make larger holes that the picture on the link. Maybe Janet will chime in. I don't want to say something not true as the holers she sent me are the only ones I've actually seen or tried.

I use bittercreek (almost everything) or KY Candle (cottons), and candlechem and cierra candles for test-length braids. After you get the sizes you need down - then candlewic for rolls. I don't think you will be able to go to just one suppler for every type of wick in both large and small amounts (and also offers test packs). Definitely do what Vicky says - get test packs when starting. If just using soy then I would try LX, CD, HTP, Cottons - even hemp if you like. Probably stay away from Zincs with straight soy. (Research the board and see what others like and why. This WILL save you some money and frustration!)

The second number is how tight the braid is. So in this case the 24 would be a tighter braid - and all things being equal (you aren't comparing cotton to cotton but cotton to zinc) the tighter the braid the less fuel it will consume. (A good example of this is the squares - I've read somewhere the wicks with the # and the /0 are the same - the difference is that the # ones are woven looser.) HTH

Thank you I didn't know if I should post in another forum - as this was to be an informative post, not a gallery shot. (Not that I don't appreciate your comment !!!)

A turkey baster - get a metal one as it retains heat to keep the wax flowing and you can then just heat gun it clean. See this link for more info: http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1105367533;start=12

Janet was kind enough to send me a couple of her silicone plug tea light inserts to test and I finally have gotten time to try them out! I've posted two pics (my photography skills aren't the best by any measure). I wanted to use up some old Astorlite palm wax so made three 4x6 pillars. The plugs were really easy to use - I didn't have to weight them down, just place and poured wax over them. There was just one little gotcha which wasn't a big deal. The molds I used had concave tops - so there was a little wax that ran under the sides of the plug. All I had to do was run a knife around the edge of the plug after I removed the pillar. You wouldn't have to do this with flat-top pillar molds I'd imagine? Like I said - to me it was really a non issue. The melt point of the astorlite wax is the same as the soy wax I made the tea lights out of so it will be interesting to see how they burn. I have each one in a thick glass tea light holder. I don't think I will have any issues. The spacing seems to be perfect IMO. If you wanted them higher you could fill the cavity with a bit of wax. I think I also read about some folks putting cork circles under the tea light holder. Anyway, I just wanted to post as a thanks to Janet. Here is a closeup. And the set:

I know these are 4" diameter - but I may give them a try - does anyone one know where I can get them without buying a whole case or pallet ? Thanks!

LX 16 will only work with really clean bw - or that which has been refined. For instance you should easily be able to get that wick to work with either what BW KY or candlewic sells. Maybe try a larger size if you have them. Hmm - I use flat and square braid in BW pillars and tapers - and the wick is not primed and it works fine. I'm sure it would be better if they WERE primed though.

Thanks Chris! I tried a set with 2/0 and another with 3/0 - we'll see how it goes! BTW, I got some of those wicking needles --- I don't know how I lived without them! You can wick anything with them - from taper molds to finished pillars. I've done up to a #4 square with them so far.

So, as mentioned a while ago, I cannot do dipped tapers in my small work area, so I have gotten some more rubber taper molds. I have not used square braid in my BW tapers, just flats, so I want to retest again with both just to be sure. (I'm doing some tonight with Chris' recommendation of 2/0 square). I always thought flat was the way to go with tapers. If you use one or the other flat or square, why did you choose one over the other? TIA!

In my regular BW I usually use an LX16 for votives. I'm testing a couple different bees waxes I don't' normally use at the moment that are not refined. There is one that is so hard to burn that I'm relinquishing it to tapers only since the braid needed is just too large for anything else, practically speaking. Not an answer to your question, but just an idea if nothing will work for you.

How the wax will pull away from the container. For instance, you wouldn't want your wax to pull away much from the container because melted wax would seep in and make it look awful. On the other hand, you do want your pillar waxes to do that somewhat so you can get them out of the mold easier. Lower meltpoint is better IMO for sure so you can use a smaller wick, not have the glass get as hot, and get a larger meltpool fast, but I see many waxes marketed as container waxes that have much higher meltpoints than the paraffin pillar waxes I use. So is it just the companies' opinion?

Its really a pain to get a tin mold with rust INSIDE the mold. I hate having to package it up, go out and send it back - even if they offer to pay the return shipping. I'd just not rather deal with it. Now, I've never got a tin mold with rust in it from my usual place - but they don't carry a big selection. If you have purchased tin molds from a supplier and they have arrived in good condition and without any rust - can you list them? Thanks very much!