Henryk

Ditto on the KY125. I've not used cotton seed additive but am tempted.

I don't go to too many craft shows but have been to one this weekend. There were a few soy candle makers there and sorry if you don't agree but at many of these shows, it just seems to me that most of them could have been interchangeable with any other one to be honest. All the usual jelly jar type candles on doilies giving a country-type home-made appearance. Now, they could have very well been excellent candles .... but there was this other soy booth. It wasn't paved in gold, but she invested in nice shelving - nothing fancy but repainted and clean and big enough to hold many containers. All her candles had a consistent look (simple glass with silver lids that could fit both modern and prim decor), they were clean, labeled, and arranged nicely. She had one burning for customers. She had a wooden sign on the top center shelf with the name of her business. She had a hanger display for all of her clam shells and the whole thing just looked like she put some time into what all the components would look like together - not just the candles themselves ... and she was the one that had the customers. So, people do judge a book by the cover - at least initially.

What about waxes that chandlers buy themselves like "joy wax" or "perfect blend" or CBA or any number of waxes with "other botanicals" in them? None of them tell you the percentages, maker, or even what the "other botanicals" are. I don't think they are being deceitful. If one thinks that they are then they can purchase elsewhere. Its a long slope. If one industry is going to be regulated to give out every ingredient instead of just MSDS sheets - then regulate them all - including the likes of Coke and Pepsi - and people DO consume that. Its just never going to happen. Heck, there are even people on this board who do their own blends and they would NEVER post what they are. I don't see anyone complaining about that and they are selling to customers also. I know nothing about the original poster of the quote, just giving MO of the original question of this thread.

Glad of that and Vicky I fully understand. Its not like you can a forum dedicated to EVERY wax out there.

Those are good points. I can tell you that we vegetarians know about such things and accept them as part of our "imperfect world". And its probably why the beeswax posts are in the veg candle forum - beeswax is an animal product. (Sorry mods - no offence please!) Paraffin is of both animal and vegetable origin. My point, in this particular case, is if people know enough to even ASK the question - then I don't see how they can not understand the answer.

You know I just read that the other day and I thought it was pretty ingenious marketing myself. I thought the person had a point in the whole post as people aren't just buying a product alone. How else can one get them to pay 300 dollars for a candle? In general, people aren't just buying an item - they are buying an "image". That is why you have FOs like "Essence of Jesus" - talk about an image. Exactly how much Jesus is in that jelly jar container? (Don't be offended - its to prove my point about marketing). 6006 is a blend of soy and paraffin like air is a mixture of mostly oxygen and nitrogen. If the person wanted to know exactly what is the wax mix should you tell them? If you wanted to sure but most candle makers would have a problem if they worked hard a formula. Even vendors do that. KY isn't going to say what perfect blend or parasoy's ratios are and they are selling to candle makers themselves, so do you think a purchaser would be walking around thinking "I'm not buying that because I want 69% soy and 31% paraffin". IMO if the people asking for soy or paraffin (doesn't matter) were told it was a "blend" then unless the person doesn't understand English they would know it wasn't all of whatever it was they were asking for. It really is that simple. Its just like saying "glass 1/2 full" or "glass 1/2 empty". (Edit for spelling)

I watched that video before and I always wondered how do you not get water drops in the wax vats that dries up into little bits and then get stuck on the candle on the next dip. I dipped candles just a couple times (just tapers) and I know that could happen - and it looked like she was flying back and forth between the water and the wax.

Approximately. Sometimes it'll be a bit longer. Naturally if you are making candles for others they aren't going to be using a stopwatch so there is only so much you can do, but if I light a candle for an average evening and the MP gets too big, it flickers like crazy, or the glass gets too darn hot then for me its too big a wick. All I'm saying is that inch per hour rule usually results in one or more of these conditions further on down the jar. So, you would say to most, I actually underwick!

"Best" or "authentic" ? There are many bayberry FOs out there and many have other notes added that are simply NOT bayberry. Bayberry wax, especially when pouring it, is quite distinctive. If you want an authentic bayberry FO ChrisR turned me on to one a couple years ago that I still think is the best: http://store.scent-works.com/newenba.html

The theory is that a too-hot flame is burning off FO around it. I have experienced the same thing as you. The only thing though, I would want that 1/4" to catch up and burn off further down into the container.

The one inch per hour rule always results both in glass that gets too hot for my taste and a jumpy flame later on if I don't babysit it - especially as it gets down in the container. I look for a good melt pool only on the second or third burn. JMO and to each his own. I know many candlemakers do look for that type of melt pool on the first burn ...

Lucky you! Yes, they have sent me samples of wicks and wax before, and when they screw something up (very rarely), they have sent out the item and not asked for the other to be returned! Like anywhere, some things are expensive and some not - but I take into account tax, how fast you need it, personal service, being able to actually SMELL the FOs before you buy them and especially shipping on glassware - a big cost addition. The other thing on glassware - you can buy by the piece or two at EA and test. I will NEVER buy glassware again from suppliers who only sell by the case - some glassware looks good but makes terribly-burning candles no matter how you wick (JMO). Regarding EA FOs - I read somewhere that French Color was one major scent manufacturers that suppliers can purchase from and then rebrand as there own. So we may be using some and don't even know it. IMO some of them I like, some I don't, some are strong, some aren't, and I feel that way about every supplier I've tried. Only thing that bugs me about candlewic is that a lot of their sales are on BOXES of wax, or POUNDS or scent, or CASES of BW Sheets, etc. But thats good for you guys and they do sell to the big boys so I understand. The absolute worse is buying something and then a week later seeing it go on sale or the ultimate - forgetting to use the darn code in the first place on your order that you just got!

Actually BW melts at 140-149F so thats actually pretty up there - so I guess the rings can be used with any pillar wax? My understanding is that many churches use paraffin/BW blends these days - I guess it was all BW in the past. I always assumed the rings were used by the churches so any drippings would stay off the gold symbols the candles. IMHO the brass ones can look a little tacky - sorry - just my 2 cents - now that you said that they really work I wish they would sell them in other finishes.

If you get a chance to go to their supply store and outlet do so - its like a candy store for candle makers. They sell all the french color stuff and it seems every piece of glassware that libbey makes. They don't sell the waxes I use (Candlewic.com), but yes, the staff are very nice and helpful. BTW, candlewic should get your stuff to you the next day from where you are.

I looked all over that site and did a search - guess they don't sell them any more. Everyone seems to have the honeycomb type. Thanks for responding though !

Any places in the US that sell smooth BW sheets in various colors? I've found places in Canada, but would like to see if I can save on shipping as the exchange rate sure doesn't work out anymore! TIA!

Hope this is the right place to ask this. Many times I see primitive-type potpourri in treenware or tinwares and its right in the item. I notice that if you use the scented type it can damage the item - so, for all these pictures you see on the web are they only using dry non-scented "fixin" type stuff or is there some other trick? I've used varies things as "liners" - but it either fails after a while or shows and doesn't look good. Thanks!

Use tins. (j/k)

1. Do you use just straight beeswax or do you blend it with other waxes and other additives straight 2. which brand of wick is best square 3. does the beeswax tend to take more or less scent more, but really depends on the type. I use a lot of BW type that almost has no scent at all. (would recommend NOT to scent it actually). 4. Do you use the silicone molds or the metal pillar molds? (which is better for getting the candle out smoothly) rubber

Try adding a couple % of BW to the KY - I've never done a side-by-side timed comparison, but with the 115 soy, I swear adding that little bit of BW gives it a noticeable increase in burn time. I just finished testing 4 different GL FOs in tumblers with this wax and got that usual cauliflower top, so tried another set with just a bit of BW to smooth it out after it sets up. Even the first couple of burns I noticed it. Maybe something to give a try?

... and more tin molds! Agreed - love that place!

Maybe Rebecca means to use bamboo charcoal with those mica tiles (kodo) - both go in the rice ash. I do the charcoal when I have it, but never did the mica. Nothing like real frankincense IMO ! (Thats what got me into it in the first place). Nice site Cindy - great idea with the incense in capsules.

Well, personally, if you end goal is to make BW candles I would just start there. JMO. But only if you DO intend to keep at it. If it is just a thought you may want to do candles, then start with kits. If you search for beeswax here on the board you will find a lot of good info (there isn't much published out there that I found). Regarding hemp wicks - you can get them from www.bittercreek.net , though I think square braids seem to work the best for BW. Investing in good rubber molds was the best thing I ever did for BW candles - though they are expensive! Start small - see if you like it - then you can purchase additional supplies.

Hi Cindy, Are you talking about makko? I use it for trail burning loose incense but haven't ever tried to make my own cones. (I agree, its like night and day - "real" incense vs. dipped kind --- JMO).

candlesinIL - I got the mold here: http://www.candlewic.com/store/category.aspx?q=cTea-Light+Molds Sharon, they actually are like votive wick pins, but without the flat part. They are just the rods that you place in the holes of each tea light depression. They are very easy to adjust if you need to, but I find if I just stick them in they are straight. Maybe at times they will straightened, but thats easy to to do. (You can see a couple laying on the right side of the mold in the pic). You pour the wax and when they are almost set up you pull the pins out, then you wait for them to harden all the way (doesn't take long), then you turn it over and they pop out easy - even BW.