UrbanFool

Thank you very much for this! I got busy and didn't have a chance to respond back... didn't want you to think I'm an ingrate. Thanks again! Kelly

Well, this one's been burning for a few days with a medium flat braid cotton wick. It's not a test, it's just cuz I keep a candle lit when I make jewelry for lighting the torch. If I don't move it around, it doesn't drip but burns itself off cleanly. (This wick needs to be trimmed, but I'm lazy. It's been going about 3 hours so far this morning. It spilled when I carried it over to the photo table.)

Y'know, my nose isn't the greatest, but I would say that yes it does.

I just got a sample from Aroma Haven, called ClothesPins and I really like it. I also get tired of the clean cotton smells.

Well, I use no mold release at all, but the molds are clean. The first thing I checked was to make sure there were no crusties left over in the corners of the mould after dumping the candle out. I've heard it's a poor choice, but I use Yaley's premium (I live across town from Yaley'), and add Stearix, Vybar, and UV. One of these days I'll get brave enough to add some soy, but not until I've mastered this corner thing and can make perfect black candles. Thanks! Kelly

It is infinitely worse I think to get a perfect candle, and not really be sure what you did to it because you remelted and added to it so many times. I used the CandleChem black TOMurray suggested in my other black complaint thread (took 20 drops), but then after the 3rd remelt ended up adding a black diamond chip (I have no idea if that makes any difference) and it really may have enough Vybar 103 to sink a ship. I'm pouring at 200* with warmed molds.

My usual cotton wicks aren't working for this. Although they don't smoke in general, once they're in the tall glass container, the glass turns black as pitch. It's also impossible to trim the wick (which is a portion of the blackening problem.) I haven't seen a wick specifically for this purpose. Also, aside from beeswax, are there additives I can add to make the candles longer burning? I tried using a normal 2x6.5" in an empty container, and it's not really doing the trick. Or, is it just that the wax has to be poured directly into the container as opposed to an insert? Anyone know? Thanks, Kelly

Well, the 200* isn't doing it. I've made several solid candles today, all with the same problem. I'm beginning to wonder how in the world I got such clean candles earlier. Is it possible the 200* is too high? I think I was pouring at 175* before. Kelly

Okay, well I use magnets to hold the wicks on my pillars, so those are magnetic. So they're tin I guess. Thing is, I never expected any more shine than usual in my candles, so was happily shocked at the high gloss this time, and wanted to make sure of what it was that did it.

I'm using Yaley's Premium wax (which is a change from Superior) with UV, Stearix and Vybar, but I'm testing black candles (AGAIN), and I poured some votives and put them in the fridge and they're shinier than I've ever seen. Those are the Octagonal votives (not sure what they're made of, but it's different than the round votives.) When I pour my actual candles, they'll be in a round 2 x 6.5" metal mold (is that tin? They're magnetic, and I thought tin wasn't magnetic.) Wow. Could that be more convoluted? At least there are a couple of periods and commas in it. Thanks! Kelly

I'm wondering what makes the shiniest candles? Something is eluding me here. Kelly

Scented, is that just for votives or also for pillars? Today I just got my gazillion wick pins, so this will be my first use of them. Also my LX-12 pre-tabbed wicks for soy votives, so I gotta lot of new things happening this weekend. Kelly

To be real honest, I buy spools of cotton wicking, and I don't prime them. I've seen people do it, and I know how to do it, but hopefully someone can explain the necessity of it. (I get the idea of priming the wick) but it hasn't seemed to affect my candle burns. I figure once my wick is tied into place, and I've poured my wax, it basically primes the wick right there, except for the short part that you burn. And that is pretty much primed anyway from the bit of wax that seeps out of the wick hole.

The mold is 2" across. My additives are from Cierra Candles and carry their label, so I'm not sure of their origin. The molds carry either the Yaley's label or the Cierra label, but I'm fairly certain that they're all moldman.com molds (although I can't swear to that.)

It's frustrating because I'm dealing with the crunchiness on one hand, but then am dealing with the color graduation on the other. Hopefully they're mutually exclusive.