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Henryk

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  1. Get a metal turkey baster with an injector tip, for example http://www.amazon.com/Paderno-World-Cuisine-stainless-basting/dp/B001E3ZMLY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1256606184&sr=1-6
  2. If anyone has used the BW from Soapers Choice for candles (straight BW) does it wick average or do you have to wick up on it? TIA
  3. Thats neat that they still have astorlite F. The astorlite PQ was my favorite crystal palm wax - RIP PQ.
  4. I've have really noticed that UV can do very strange things in particular to dark shades of greens and browns - repeatedly. At least the type I used to use did. Just a suggestion, but if you have already tried it without your UV and its still not good - try a good block dye like French dye blocks - yes, the hunter green would be my first choice too. "Army" green to me means olive - so maybe the palm you are using is just particularly succeptable to yellowing - and in that case try a different one - or, if you get good results right upon unmolding, but THEN they yellow - try a different UV. I did some large WHITE palm forever pillars many months ago and gave them to someone who kept them by two windows on her mantle - and they are still bright white and I did NOT use UV. Thats why I mention maybe its the palm itself.
  5. Try either of the perfect blends from KY Candle or if you want a bit more paraffin try the perfect blend. The perfect blend colors a bit darker as its slightly more transluscent IMO. Being in PA you should get wax from her in 2 days unless she is behind. (Plus you won't pay tax!).
  6. Sorry, BW is beeswax. If a mold releases beeswax clean - you should have NO problem with paraffin - assuming you aren't trying to use a container paraffin
  7. Actually the Mann Lake ones are all rubber also. They are the best IMO though. I've finally ruined my taper molds from them after years of use so I just buy BW tapers now when I want them. It just too much trouble to do them a couple at a time and I don't have room to do a dipping tank of a decent size. Still use the ML ones for pillars though.
  8. I use these and they look and work really nice. You get a bag of 6 for 4.00 dollars on the site but I think I may have paid less at the store - I can't remember its been a while - however I'm sure the more you buy the cheaper it'll be I guess. They are nice folks to deal with even though I don't buy a ton of supplies. Maybe what you are interested in? http://www.earlyamericancandlesupplies.com/store_supplies_info.cfm?id=748&cat=7⊂=31
  9. If you have used 3134 and/or 4144 - can you tell me if either of them have mottled for you? And if so, is it a good all-over mottle or is it just like a "snowflake" here and there? Thanks!
  10. First I should say that I never particularly liked how votives burned even in tight holders and I'm not familiar with the ones you mentioned. So I tried the 3 oz. ones from Candlewic - I LOVE these things! They are polycarbonate - the same thing as good tea light cups are made out of. I've never had a problem with them melting - and as long as they are wicked properly (so the meltpool doesn't get too deep as it burns down), I feel they get less hot than glass holders. Maybe they dissipate the heat better instead of holding onto it. I've been just burning them in them in the holders, but you can also use them as 3oz. votive molds also - the finish on them is MUCH better than the aluminum ones IMO. I think candlewic is now selling the 3oz votive glasses also for them.
  11. Here's a pic at http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53933#9
  12. I agree that hardening the wax too much can do that - BW, or stearic in my case - use them sparingly if needed. The other times I have seen this is in the case of large tall jars - the top cools too fast while the inside stays warm and top colapses like that. To be honest, the way I solved that is --- I stopped using that type of jar! KY waxes in 8-12oz jars never had that issue unless too much BW. Eco Advanced didn't have it unless too much stearic.
  13. They are fine if I trim them for every burn - but you're right - I could not get away with "light it and forget it". I did another set with ecos - 1 and 2. I can always go back to LXs in the votives - but the flame gets a bit too high for me so I'm just trying something different. I've never been really happy with votives to begin with honestly, and I'm starting to feel the same way with containers in general. Pillars seem so much easier. Thanks again.
  14. Thanks for your posts! Turns out these votives are for tables (food) - so they ARE unscented - wonder if I would have issues if they were scented as you mention Top. (They were made with pillar soy). I also had some unwicked scented and unscented soy (KY125 + 2% BW) containers and so for the heck of it put in 3 largest sizes of zincs - NONE of them burned right.
  15. Just updating this after a process of elimination. Turns out it was the wax but mostly one color (the other wasn't too bad) from one vendor that was giving me issues. Since checking back through notes, turns out the ones that were giving me issues where either made completely with the one color - or where a mix of two or a mix of bayberry wax. Once I eliminated that one variable, everything worked out.
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