Circle

Try LX 24 or LX 26

When I lived in Europe and sold candles, not my own, noone ever expected to know the burn times, just sometimes the odd question on a huge candle would be how long would it burn for (when I say huge, I mean about 1m tall and around 20cm wide!!) Has listing the burn times become an issue? I think that a lot of people would wick one size down to get this longer burn time and thus a smaller flame and then you might as well burn a melt for the scent!! I guess it might vary in different countries, so please can I have any comments. Thanks

Could you make new candles with them? that is do you have any molds and wick? If so, just remelt the wax and pour new candles, or pour wax into votive size jars with appropriate wick and burn those. Beeswax lasts indefinately

I recently bought a 4oz tin made by someone else just to test. I know they use CB advanced but not sure if they use any additives???????? Get this, Their burn time is listed as 15 hours!! I lit and burned for 2 hours and there was a nice flame and good HT. Let it burn on (like a customer would do) and 21/2 hours the flame was very weak, almost drowning, BUT the melt pool remained right to the edges. Put it out after 4 hours, relit the next night and same weak flame but melt pool right to the edge, HT still good. Have burned it now for a total of 10hrs and there is still a lot to go. Never have to trim the wick. Now, for some opinions: Is it better for the candle to burn longer with a weak flame? Is it better for a candle to burn for a shorter time with a stronger flame? Do you think they have additives or just a good wick? Have they got the perfect candle that customers would buy? Would you like their recipe or would you do different? Thanks for any opinions

I would love to tell my customers that having a gift shop is just that, not selling cheap chinese candles that the supermarkets sell. Everyone has the same candle and don't mind buying 25 for the cheap price, whereas they could buy 10 top quality, UNIQUE, candles that burn cleaner, last longer and get the awe from your guests, LETS BE DIFFERENT and spend less in the long run.... OH I forgot, don't worry about buying those soy candles because of the false marketing that it is all natural, when deep within the wax lies the ingredient that makes it what it is... Paraffin!!!

Stunning!!!

Just give her the website of the National Candle Association and let her READ about how all waxes are clean burning if the right ingredients are used!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have the same thing here with the soy people saying that "Friends don't let friends burn paraffin" what a load. I tell my customers to look on my website where I have a section about wax, taken from the National association. All these nuts here say that soy is water soluble, I put some in hot water and let it cool and it is so water soluble that the whole surface hardened into a wax layer with the water underneath!!!!! It is much like saying lamb fat from a roast lamb is water soluble, not!!! Tell her that some Soy wax is not even certified GM free and see what she says to that and how some forests are being cleared for the palm wax. I now have been forced to use all waxes to show my cause and the only pure wax is beeswax as it is the only one with health properties. Yes, it can be certified organic but is a lot more expensive.

Thanks Rachael, Bill must have lost my email in cyberspace, I'll try again. Do you use the straight raw wick off the roll? That is what I tried, although getting it to stay at the bottom was a mission, and it worked well for a 11/2" diam container with the #2

I have just started working with palm and use crystal pillar and container. I find that sometimes I need to heatgun the top of the containers due to small holes, but once zapped and candle is ready, it burns beautiful. Never poked a relief hole. I use RRD wicks and they work well. Pillars, I have never poked holes, only heatgunned the bottoms if I have seen a hole, burning has always been good. I guess I have just been lucky with beginners luck.

Hi everyone I know I read the whole thread on the organic soy debate and there was not one company that could say emphatically that their soy was completely organic. It has come up with quite a few customers that they want the natural pure soy and not the GM stuff (genetically modified) a few of them even mentioned that they won't buy soy candles made from golden brands. I know that Ecosoya is supposed to be GM free, but does anyone recommend something as pure? It does not have to be 100% soy but the additives must be of vege origin. Thanks for your opinions in advance

Candlewic has a pine needle which is really natural and strong

I use a hot glue gun and it is great, also very cheap and any hardware store.

Thank you both. I live in New Zealand so not sure if it is feasible to post. Everything is difficult here, I have to get most of my things from USA. I did ask Bill Binder from Candlewic, but I'm waiting for his reply. Last night I used a piece of square braid WR2007 #2 in my 21/2" aluminium tin and it was still too small!!!! Tried a CDN 20 and still too small, but getting there. I have to do this line as I love the beeswax and don't want to mix it in my containers, pillars is fine.

Thanks all

I have used LX 24 and LX 26 in palm wax in this size container and they work great. I also use RRD 47 and they are good too.

Can anyone recommend the best wicks to use with pure beeswax in containers please. I am testing RRD at the moment and they seem OK but I am not sure if something else might be more effective.. Thanks:confused:

Anyone know of a fairly reasonably priced EO company that produces top quality EO's? I don't mind buying in bulk once I have tested some samples. Thanks

Candlewic has them

I sometimes use LX wicks from Candlewic and have never had that problem

Stunning as usual, Jo

Do you pour the palm out when it has a shell and then pour soy into the middle? I don't work with palm, YET They are stunning!!!

Stella, you have a lovely burn and candle shell there!!. I'll try palm, but how on earth to make more that 1 at a time and how long does it take you to make 1!!! I am not sure I would have the patience.

In my classes it was: Tbsp for tablespoon and tsp for teaspoon

You could try RRD40

What about using a heatgun and completely liquifying the whole top surface again? I have no experience with palm, but surely this should work, especially in a container?