Rhonda

Oh okay.. so in soaping I would purchase the cheaper refined stuff. I have all the best organic oils and butters because I make lotions for myself. And I was thinking I was going to use that in my soaps. But I'm glad I saw another post saying that all the nutrients were leached out of fresh avocado (someone wanted to use this in their soap). I just never really thought about this. I also do melt and pour at this point and always figured that any of the synthetic/chemicals that may be in the base were not going to be absorbed into the skin anyway, since common sense says it is a wash off product. But...at the same time I have seen people advertise their CP soap as having vitamins and nutrients etc.. So I just assumed with CP there were still vitamins left in it. I guess added after trace is the only time you can get the vitamins/nutrients to stay alive right? Unless the PH is off. Anyway, thanks for your reply.. It's nice that a couple of you took the time to reply to me. Rhonda

In CP soap. Will the (acid) Lye kill off all the vitamins and nutrients that are in the nice oils and butters? Like say unrefined shea. I would hate to use these ingredients and have all the nutrients taken out during the process. So is there a chemist type out there that knows the answer to this? Or someone who has researched this. I tried and couldn't find anything. Thanks Rhonda

Are the CD wicks the same as 60c (60-44-18c) as an example..Because I have both and they seem to be the same except the round piece of metal on the bottom is smaller on the CD's that I got. Also, how do the WU's burn. I've got those but haven't tried them. I'm pretty happy with the CD's at this point. Rhonda

Anyone know where I can purchase some of the colbalt blue jars.? What company has good shipping and is close to California. So far I found the jars cheap but the shipping is outrageous because they are back east. Any recommendations? Rhonda

Wow..thanks for all your replies and that great tutorial.. One other question..Is there a point where it would be too late to pour a second layer.. Say time wise maybe 30 minutes or an hour. I'm just wondering how much time I would have to work once I pour the first layer. This will tell me whether I should do the dividing of soap from one batch. Or if I could make two different batches. I don't have that much equipment or space so having 2 or 3 different pitchers of lye won't work for me. So I'm sure it varies but is there an approximate window of time.? Thanks Rhonda

Thanks.. Just to be clear, is this correct.. I make one whole batch and use that as the first layer.. (instead of separating the one into two, which is what I thought) I make a whole separate batch, and the first one will not harden too much, nor do I need to cover it before spreading the second batch over it.. Thanks you guys.. Rhonda

I can't seem to find any threads about layering cold process soap. Is there info in any books? I'm about to buy a couple books but of course can't see in them to see if there is specific techniques on layering.. So like in Melt and pour, do you wait until a layer forms before you pour your second layer. Or is cold process soap thick enough that you can pour immediately? Or, can I wait until the soap is hardened somewhat and then pour. ? Any insight is greatly appreciated.. Thanks, Rhonda

Like in soap Vanilla can discolor.. One of my test candles with vanilla got some brown in it after burning.. I'm now testing the vanilla EO instead. Because vanilla EO does not discolor in soap. Not mine anyway..

Is there really much difference between a fragrance oil made for candles as opposed to lotions and soap. I have some great fo's that smell just as strong as some of the candle only fo's I bought. So is there a big deal if I use one or the other. Can using the fo's that are not for candles specifically cause any typical problems. I found when I poured some candle fo into my wax it created some oil beads that would not stir in. I don't get this with plain fo's for soaps. So is the oil beads a necessary thing for a better scent throw perhaps.? Rhonda

I'm totally new to candle making but maybe this is a solution and maybe not. I used a tiny amount of shavings from a dye block. Made a pastel green. I made two 10oz candles and 2 3 oz candles..from this green.. I scented a 10 and a 3oz with one FO. And the other two with EO, for the two with EO I used almond oil as a carrier oil. The two I made without the almond oil got frosting and the two I made with EO/almond oil got no frosting. So basically I'm saying maybe adding some almond oil or another oil will help.. This is just a guess of course because like I said I'm new and it's only a couple candles. I am mostly doing natural myself however, I like it because it will go with any decor and the nice ivory color goes well in my house.

Thanks for your help everyone.. one more thing to order now..

I'm having a little trouble with the glue dots staying stuck to the bottom of the container... Does anyone know why they are coming loose as I pour the wax? I use the glue dots from genwax and the metal bottom wicks of course..I press really hard, the bottom of the glass was clean. Wax wasn't too hot. I finally got one to stick but the first two came right off and it was a pain in the butt. Is this something that happens usually or unually..? Thanks Rhonda

What's KY.. the name so I can look it up. I think I found a nice soft one at Swan's but I'll see for sure when it arrives. I figure I'll find my favorite wax first and then find the right wick for it in the three different container sizes I have. Thanks again for your recommendations guys.. Rhonda

Thanks so much for all your advice. I am going to have a lot of fun testing and retesting and trying different things.. I refuse to let it frustrate me that's for sure. I'm so happy to have found this forum for help.. You guys are wonderful..thank you for being here. Rhonda

Thanks Stella.. actually they don't call it a soy candle they say a vegetable blend of waxes. I may give up on looking for the softer stuff.. I've bought 50lbs of the C3 and have the 464 (10lbs) coming. I don't have enough friends to give away all my testers.:rolleyes2 I know I can remelt, but some of it has frosting so I guess I don't want to reuse that. since I think it's from the fragrance oil. Where would I get the CDN wicks? I'll try those next. :rolleyes2 Thanks again, Rhonda