gerrie

I think you did just fine. Your candle colors are beautiful and when you're limited on space you can only do so much. Like Laurie said, the more shows you do, the more you will know which one is worth it and which isn't. Never know till you try though.

Stunning!!

Thanks e, I was thinking the same thing since there isn't much talk about it, just a ploy. Here's the link of the stearic I was referring to. http://www.elementsbathandbody.com/Stearic-Acid-Triple-Pressed-1-lb-pr-186.html

I do the same as snow. No waste, just peel off the picture, melt the wax back down, and try again. I use a skewer to press the picture against the side of the mold, AFTER I've let the picture sit in the hot wax a bit to release all the air bubbles. Just keep moving the skewer from the middle of the picture to the outside edge, pushing all the wax and air from between the mold and the picture. When I get it where I like it and I think I've got it pressed against the mold really good I place a cold rag on the mold to hold it in place, then I place it in the water bath.

Carole, are these Avery labels by any chance? I went around and around with them about their labels turning yellow. They didn't turn when I first started using them about 6 years ago, and I had proof of labels from when I started that hadn't turned, even after being placed in the same room next to the ones that were turning on me. But that was about 4 years ago. I don't use Avery after all that, they never could give me an answer as to why they changed their labels. I used the spray for several years, and in time they will turn yellow too, but it takes a long time. If you keep your stock fresh you won't have that problem. Light seems to be the culprit to the yellowing of labels.

Thanks Janis. I think I posted in haste. I just checked on it and it's cloudy now, so it's on it's way to getting hard again. I was just surprised that it took so long.

I melted some cocoa butter, and poured it into a push up tube for my DD's prego belly. I just assumed it would harden back up since it's such a hard butter, but it has cooled, and been sitting for almost an hour and it looks just like a liquid oil. Is this normal, after melting, it doesn't get hard again? TIA

I have seen cosmetic grade stearic acid and then just the plain stearic acid for candles. Can I use the cosmetic type for my rustics, does it really make any difference? TIA

If you have a forstner bit and a drill press, you really can drill the hole. It's very easy, since wax is soft. I insert my plastic tealight cup into a glass tealight holder, to help minimize the melting of the surrounding wax from the tealight cup, and so I have to use a forstner bit to do mine.

Beautiful, as always I have been trying to get a good plum color for weeks, can you tell me what you used to achieve a great plum color. Love the beads too. And of course, the cat is adorable.

Thanks so much top :smiley2:

I've heard that you may have to wick up at high altitude. It makes sense....the higher the altitude, the less oxygen, and you need oxygen to feed the fire. sudsnwicks, I also remember the gal who moved from sea level to the mountains and had to test all her scents again, she said her flame was way to small at the higher altitude. She was worried about shipping the newly larger wicked candles to someone at sea level.........would the flame be to big then.

Do any of you know who might carry the WI-715 wicks? I can only find them at Wick It and they have a minimum order of 1000, more than I need. Greenleaf is going to carry them but they don't have them right now. TIA

Do any of you remember about 5 years ago when Todd had "The Scent Review" board, and someone was being sued. I can't remember who it was or why she was being sued, but she said it was a total nightmare. She also said if you don't think it can happen to you, then you've got your head buried in the sand. I can't remember the specifics, but it was quite an ordeal for her to go through, lawyers fee was huge.

That's the main reason I am in the process of testing a new wax. Used the 129 for about 4 years, got tired of the inconsistencies. Vybar is something that they add, they can eliminate putting "to much" in, I mean, don't they go by a formula??!!:rolleyes2 You're lucky they told you it was the vybar, when it first happened to me they kept telling me it was something I had changed in my formula....not true. When they finally admitted that they had added to much vybar I had already started the process of adding other waxes to it so it would make a decent looking candle. He told me all I had to do was add mineral oil to compensate for the excess vybar, it was in the middle of the holiday season and I didn't have time to mess around with it, so I wasn't very happy. I can't believe they still are putting "to much" vybar in it The price of the wax went up, and the shipping too, so it was a good time to make the switch. Glad you enjoy the wax, I did too. I used LX wicks with the 129.

Beautiful job on both the sweater and the blanket!! Do you mind sharing where you got the fabric? I think it's adorable.

If these are used for heating the tart, in other words, inside the warmer, then you need to use metal cups. I'm sure there are people who use the plastic cups, but it's HIGHLY recommended that you use the metal ones because it's enclosed, so to speak, and can get quite hot inside. I just buy the bag full from Michaels or Walmart for use in any warmers or houses. If you are selling these to burn like a votive, that will be seen, then I agree, the plastic ones look much nicer, JMHO. And yes, the plastic can catch on fire, happened to me twice, but I had the tealight over wicked, learned a lesson, test only on heat resistant surface. It's on my caution label, I need to practice what I preach

I agree, buy a kit online, like at Peaks. At least you will have a quality product, plus the great customer service. They will help you along if you have any questions.

That is so exciting for you!!! But I must be missing something here. Why would you need 1000's of samples? Why can't you give the manager of each store a sample candle..........if they like the way it burns and smells, then that should be good enough. Or do they actually have 1000's of stores? Oh my, if that's the case, then I wish you 8 more arms and 48 more hours in each day Good luck!!!

I think the most important thing is to have the clearest base you can find. They really are easy to do once you get the hang of it. When you get set up you can make quite a few in just a small amount of time.

I also like both of them, but I think I may favor the rustic a bit more. I was also thinking that you might try doing some in white, everyone loves white or ivory, and the beautiful ribbon really would stand out. Just gives people more choice, although I'm sure they will sell no matter what, it's such a great cause.

I have also found that if I place a foam ice chest over my jars I don't get any more of the cracking around the wick, guess they were cooling just to fast. I tried a lot of other things first, cause I didn't want to have to worry about covering my jars, but this is what worked for me. Hope when summer is back that I won't have to go through that extra step, but for now, I'll keep covering them. HTH

Just got reading that email too. I'm not surprised. I thought they would just exclude the glass and wax, since they are so heavy, so that surprised me. It was nice the way it started, but I can live with the way they've changed it, I knew something had to give, or they'd go in the hole, well not quite, but I can see where they'd be taking a loss on a lot of orders.

Everything looks great, but the pictures seemed blurred to me, as if they were scanned. It may be my computer, curious to see if others find the pictures more clear than what I see. Nice job on your site, and good luck with it.

Oh great, can't wait to hear your results Holly. It's always nice to find wax close by, cause the shipping is a killer for us.