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gerrie

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Everything posted by gerrie

  1. Jacqui did a co-op on shrink wrap tubes for pillars and votives. They are the best votive wraps I've used, nice and smooth, none of that excess bubbly looking wrap on the votives. I must have tried a dozen different ways to individually shrink wrap my votives, and this stuff works the best. I'm pretty sure the pillar shrink wraps would be just as good for your pillars. I can't remember where she got them at, but if I remember right they had a huge minimum, so you might PM her to see if she has any left over that she'd like to sell.
  2. I had the same problem first time around. Learned to either use double sided tape or some silicone to keep the item from floating to the top. I've even used duct tape folded over on itself once, and they all worked fine. Just find what works best for what you're trying to hold in place.
  3. Candlescience has them for .49 if that helps.
  4. I just came across this thread, so I may be to late, but I had Candlewic make a Polyurethane mold for some small votives I wanted. It wasn't cheap, but if you plan on making a lot of them it might be worth looking into. It was 5-6 years ago so I don't remember if I had to send them a sample of what I needed or what.
  5. Yes, this is indeed a tremendous time saver. There's no limit to printing out any number of any of your labels this way. I have 50 tabs on my tart labels. You will find just how easy it really is to use once you've mastered it. It really is a great FREE software.
  6. Very festive looking!! DH did a great job making and finishing the risers. And I love all the little boxes he made for the votives, ties it all together. Looks like you put a lot of work into it, so I'm glad it paid off for you.
  7. If you remelt your palm wax do you lose the feathering, startburst, etc. effect that it had? I wanted to remelt a pillar, but I sure don't want to lose the beautiful appearance that it has. BTW, it's called F wax, but think they have changed the name to feathering pillar wax. TIA
  8. It depends on your wax, when I was using cbl 129 the TL330 wick worked fine, but now I'm using a soy/para wax and I'm testing with eco 1's. I really liked the 129 wax for tealights. I find the tealights are very soft and get messed up easily with the soy/para blend. I've never used pillar wax for tealights, but that's not saying you can't, just saying I really don't know. Is the mold from candlewic silicone? No, it's Polyurethane, so not as soft as silicone, but it works just fine.
  9. If it's the one that does 15 tealights, then I've got it. I love it. It's a real time saver. I did get some tealight cups (plastic) from a few suppliers where the tealights made from the candlewic mold would not fit into. They were just a tiny bit to big, and I couldn't even force them into the cups. So just a little advice...get your cups from candlewic when you order the mold. Sorry that I can't remember who I got the cups from that didn't work, but I think one of them was candlescience, but not positive. I believe the ones from BCN work, but heck, without my invoice I can't remember who I bought them from the last time
  10. As always, your work is amazing..........just beautiful!!
  11. Well how much fun that must have been. I hope you have a boat load of product made because this could really boost your sales
  12. I agree with Sharon, you'll be surprised how many glue dots are out there for scrap booking. I just looked at several types at Fred Meyer. Also, when I was in a pinch I'd just go get the double face foam tape they sell at any store to use. I'd just cut small pieces and it works just fine.
  13. Remember the Luma Lite Wax (think that's what it's called) that WSP came out with about 5-6 years ago, it was supposed to allow the entire candle to glow. Still have a 5 or 10 lb bag of it sitting down stairs that I never did anything with . Wasted money cause they don't even make it anymore, so I can't sell it on the classifieds and I don't want to spend time messing with it if I can't buy it again
  14. I think it looks great, and I can see all the layers. I have that same mold, but have yet to pour any wax into it. When I do I can tell I better pour something I really like cause it's going to last forever I have a feeling. Is that 1343 wax, the coloring is very pretty.
  15. Since I don't use it any longer I can't really give you any advice as to how it's acting at this time. But Bill did tell us when there was to much vybar added to the wax, that adding mineral oil would be helpful. That wasn't what I wanted to hear, but I had a bunch of the 129 that needed to be used to I started adding joy wax to it........at least I was able to get through the few cases I had. Not sure if that's the problem right now or not. And yes, you do have to pour hot, my instructions say to heat to 190, add color, cool to 185, add scent and pour. Many times I heated past the 190 point, but I always tried to pour around 185. And yes grama, that was a great thing about the 129. I did everything except pillars with it.....votives, containers, tarts and tealights. If I lived closer to PA I'd definitely still be using it for my tealights, tarts and votives.
  16. Hey grama, you weren't alone in this fight with Candlewic. They had me sending them votives from new and old batches because they wanted to put the blame on me too. Even had my DH go dumpster diving to get the batch number off the old and new boxes of wax. I'd used this wax long enough that I knew there was something real wrong with the wax, and it wasn't my fault. After another gal (who bought pallets from them) finally got them to admit they made a mistake and added to much vybar to the wax, that I was finally able to do my best to fix it. I didn't have a lot of problems after that, but with their high shipping to me I've moved on to another wax (and the demand from customers for soy). I did love the 129, and I do miss it, so easy to wick, good throw and colored so easily. I had problems with a flat top too, then I finally accepted it just like others do with wet spots. Customers didn't seem to care, since they burned them soon as they got them anyway
  17. I've tried the LX22 in 3 oils and none have developed a full MP, but I could try a 24 and see what happens. And yes, it is cylindrical. Thanks.
  18. Thanks girls!! I'll try AGAIN, I have both LX and HTP's so I'll give them both a try. Pam, I know you seem to have good luck with those eco wicks, and I use them with my status jar, but seems anything bigger gives me nothing but soot and dancing flames.
  19. Very nice presentation, not to crowded, neat a clean looking. Your products look great, and your table covering is beautiful. Nice smile BTW.....you know that helps bring people in
  20. I have a jar that's about 2 7/8" diameter. I'm using GL 70/30. From what I understand, and I believe after all my single wick testing, that this wax needs to be double wicked in a jar this size. My question is, it's only been about 1 hour since I started testing with my 2 LX14's and I already have a full melt pool. Is this to soon? Flames don't seem to big, jar does feel fairly hot, but it's a pretty thin jar. Since I've never double wicked I'm not sure what I should be looking for. TIA
  21. Wow, that really is beautiful!!
  22. I asked this same question several years ago and Alan was kind enough to suggest I wrap a cold cloth around the top part to keep the temp down.
  23. Beautiful!! I can't wait to see more. Pictures are really nice, looks like you had them professionally done. Nice job!!
  24. That's super It's amazing what we can do when we're put to the test. We may run ourselves into the ground, but we just keep on going. Hope it all works out for you.
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