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Candle Man

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Everything posted by Candle Man

  1. They would look great in the bakery clear plastic clam shells, both the single and the 6 pack sizes. Also add labels that look like real bakery labels.
  2. You use Candle Painting Medium http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37327&highlight=candle+paint http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34474&highlight=candle+paint
  3. There is so little on top, compaired to the body of the candle, that it shouldn't effect the burn.
  4. Yes, yellow & darker colored FO's will turn color over time and exposed to light. Also vanillla scents will turn color over time. You may have to leave them un-scented but thay may still turn, over time, if they are on top of colored wax. My icing on brown cakes turn yellow to brown, over time. I think it has something to do with the brown color migrating into the white, over time. I wish I could keep my white, white, over time. I have tried additived & UV additive with no luck.
  5. No there isn't, and it would nearly be impossible. There are so many waxes, additives, colors & FO's out there, not all combonations will burn the same. Each ingredient is different and may require a different wick. So, the only way to know if a wick will work for your wax, is to test.
  6. This is how wicks burn... They burn down and out. Some wicks burn down faster than they burn out, as you found out with the HTP83. The HTP104 burned out faster than it burned down, so it worked for your container & wax. This wick may not work for heavy scents (vanilla's, etc.), so keep testing and good luck. BTW - Not all wick types burn the same. If you try an LX wick, I find, the larger sizes burn down faster than they burn out, in my wax. HTH Candle Man
  7. Looks Great. Great work with the "one stroke" painting technique. http://www.onestroke.com/demo/index.html
  8. And another http://www.candleandsoapstuff.com/Suppliers_by_State.html
  9. Spray with 3 coates of clear coat before cutting out image, then after you put it on spray 3 coates over the entire candle and image.
  10. Their Fo are great quality, but they never have their best sellers in stock, so I quite ordering from them.
  11. Can you post a pic so we can better understand what you are saying. That way we can better help you.
  12. Here are some instructions, that might help. Please note, these may not be exact for what you are doing, but they still have some great info. http://www.candlehelp.com/?content=hurrpaper http://www.onestopcandle.com/candle/paperhurrproj.php
  13. I don't like that wick centering tool (see pic) because it can cut the wick. I like to use cloth pins http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48101. For larger containers, use the bigger blue plactic cloth pins.
  14. The eye droppers are better than any other method for liquid dye. The only thing is you need to get extra droppers, so you can replace them, because they will not last the life of the dye. The dye will eat the rubber bulbs. BTW - Always wear latex gloves when handling liquid dye, if it gets on your skin it will stain, and take forever to wear off.
  15. That one looks great, too. How is the throw on these? Is is about the same as the "Dipped Critters"?
  16. You can get sunflower oil at the grocery store, in the cooking oil section.
  17. If you still want to use those scents that change to brown, you could just re-name them.
  18. I like cyclomethicone much better than any body spray/perfume that contains alcohol. The cyclo makes the scent last much longer on the body. Search on here for cyclomethicone or cyclo.
  19. You wick & treat the outer sand shell, like any other container.
  20. I ordered a sample of those wicks, but never tested them, because you have to order 1,000 of each wick. I only use 2 wick sizes that I need 1,000 or more at a time. I wish they would sell smaller quanties.
  21. Here is some info about making sand candles... The pouring temperature of the wax determines how thick the sand "crust" will be on the final candle. Pouring the wax at about 225°F will give you a thin, light coating of sand. 250°F will give you a medium "crust". 275°F will give you a nice thick "crust". http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/moldedandpillarcandles/ss/sandcandles_3.htm
  22. I'm sure the blocks are either the same or close to the same as the chips, in that there will be sediment because of the powdered dye.
  23. The cleanest part you need is the inside bottom, so the wick will stick. As long as the sides are fairly cleen, that's just fine for testers.
  24. I would say the 6oz + it's easier to wick than an 8oz.
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