Candle Man

Wellington FO's may be the problem. If you do a search on here, you will find, that Wellington FO's are not that great. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34972&highlight=wellington

I am also a Floral Designer and I wouldn't think she or her Floral Designer would use just White & Silver in the flowers. If you can find out what other colors will be used in the flowers, that would help you. You should only use colors that will be used in the wedding. See if you can get any color swatches, fabric, ribbon, napkins, silk flowers, etc. Good Luck.

That may be a NEW color trend, and some of the floral suppliers I use has that color combo but IMO I can't stand those colors together. Just like the pink & brown, also.

To match that color you need green with a bit of blue. Ivory would also work, with that color.

Everything looks great. Got a question... Why aren't you bar soap as big as the box? I see some of the bars edges, showing in the window of some of the boxes. I thought soap packaging was made for the most common sizes of bars, so the bars would fit just perfect.

No shelf life, just store them out of direct light and away from heat.

That will work just fine, no worries about catching on fire.

I sell more 8oz JJ because of the size and price. I guess most of my customers don't want the same scent that long, they like to change scents.

Those measurements don't sound right. Diameter is the measurement across, not the measurement around, so if it's 2" then you only need 1 wick. Measure across at the widest point of the jar. Example - If it's an apothecary jar you would wick for the measurement of the bottom part of the jar, not the smaller neck, where the lid fits. Most waxes don't need 2 wicks until you reach 3 1/2"s and above.

To find the best wick make sure all the testers are the same scent. Once you find the wick that has the right melt pool and not to large of a flame with good throw, use that as your starting wick. Some scents may have to be wicked up (larger wick) like vanilla. BTW - Don't burn them all at the same time (I know it is a slower process) but that way you can tell how the throw is for that wick. Also keep detailed notes, so you can repeat any candle you make.

Straight paraffin IGI 1343 & Vybar 103 works great for a dripless taper.

With some of the slab molds, they have dividers, so you don't have to cut. You have instant bars and all you need to do is bevel the edges.

Looks great. Odd shapes will not burn well, at all. The best thing to do for odd shapes, is to make them everlasting, with either a tea light or votive.

I pour all my candles on cookie sheets. That way the cookie sheet will catch any drips or leaks and I can move the cookie sheet to my baking rack to cool and give more room to pour more.

If you make a quality candle, you don't need them and they will only work with single wick candles. Someone came up with this idea because of the poor quality candles out there, it helps them burn better.

I bought from stores & crafters around here, to make my display. I have no problems with it, and I write it off as R&D. This has taken business away from some of them and I even put one hand poured candle shop out of business, with my quality products and great customer service.

I don't have a rack. I have upper shelves, in my pouring room, and stack them upside down, to keep the dust out.

You need a display of burned candles Name Brand & yours side by side, to show customers the crap they buy and what they can get from you. I could never convince Name Brand customers to switch just by telling them the difference. I had to show them the difference, to get them to switch.

My test results were tunnelling, poor hot throw, and lots of soot and, of course, very high priced $20.00US for 14.5oz. My candles burn evenly and completely, great hot throw, and very little to no black soot.

You are new to this board and may not know all the sections & how to use this board very well. FYI - You are using soy wax and should post this question in the Vegetable Wax section. Also if you do a search in the Vegetable Wax section you will find lots of posts about frosting. To use the search, for this question, first click on the Vegetable Wax section then look on a blue bar and find Search this Forum click that and enter Frosting. I could give you the link but this way you will learn how to use this board better. I'm sure you will find great info, already posted.

I know the wealthy people in my area will not buy from me. I have tested all my candles against Yankme & other Nam Brands and they will out bun them in every way and at a better price. These rich people in my town don't care about a quality candle, they have got to have a Name Brand (no matter what the $Price$), so when their friends are over, they see the name brand. I can offer them custom color (to match their decor), special & unique glassware, better quality product and they still won't buy. People think Name Brand is a better product until they try my candles. I have a display in my store of side by side comparrison to show how much better my products are. That way they can see first hand how my product compairs to others. Then when the customer takes my candles home ,they can smell the difference.

You might want to sample other named scents, like, Christmas Tree, Pine or others that have a name close to the smell of balsum. They may smell close or just like balsam.

Those look great. Congrat's on the fundraiser. FYI - There are NEW labels for tins, both the top circle & the wrap arounds, check them out http://www.onlinelabels.com/metal-tin-containers.htm

When you rub it in, it has a dry soft & silky powdery feel. BTW - With cyclo you don't have to worry about shipping. Alcohol has shipping restrictions/requirements and usually cost more for the shipping.

Here are 2 places to buy water-slide decal transfer paper & instructions... http://www.papilio.com/inkjet%20waterslide%20decal%20transfer%20paper%20media.html http://www.waterslide-decals.com/candle_decals.htmlhttp://www.waterslide-decals.com/inkjet_instructions.html