Candle Man

I make the Everlasting Pillars with votives ONLY, no tealights. That way the pillar stays nice and you still get a hot throw when burned.

Check the Fragrance Discussion section, you will find lost of suggestions.

BTW - The middle votive does have a great swirl.

Yep, I have to agree. Those votives have huge sink holes, you need to top them off. Here is some great instructions http://www.candletech.com/votives/ This photo shows sink holes and the topping off / re-pouring. This photo shows a properly finished votive.

Looks great. That wax looks very translucent, it must be straight paraffin with some other additive, other than vybar because vybar will make wax more opaque.

Looks great. Looks like the look of the faux plastic sugar coated fruit, you see during the holidays.

Depending on which wax you use an 8oz jar will hold approx. 6oz's-6.5oz's of wax. The best way I find the wax weight is place an empty jar on the scale then tear out that weight. Then weigh several finished candles, in that same jar. Find the average weight and that weight would be what you put on your label. Say you have some jars that weigh 6oz's, some 6.25oz's and maybe a few 6.5oz's then you can only label them all 6oz's. Your label can be listed as less than the actual weight but not over. HTH Candle Man

Peaks has Sticky wax http://www.peakcandle.com/products/Sticky-Wax__A1017.aspx

Hurricane glass shades are use for pillar candle centerpices.

That's strange, I've never had a thick FO, mine are always very pourable. Are you sure it's not an old oil?

Since this is a whipped wax, there is no way you can get all the air out of the wax and have them look so great, so how do they burn? I would think they would not burn very well and most likely tunnel bucause of all the air in the wax.

I know you are NEW, so you will know, You posted in the wrong section. Look in the recipe section, there is tons of recipes.

Try a sample of Bitter Creek North or South (which ever is closer to you), theirs is great.

Here is some foam tubing I found at ULINE http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_871.asp?desc=Foam+Tubing Also some Convoluted Foam Sets (egg creat foam) http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_863.asp?desc=Gray+Convoluted+Foam Check out their site, I'm sure they have something that will work, but I'm not sure if it's cost effective.

Yep, Wax contaracts & expands with different temps.

FO is not like Water (light FO) & Honey (heavy FO). I have never come across a thick FO. The only way you know for certain in by weight and by the ones that burn poorly and needt to be wicked-up, like vanilla etc.

I don't use silicone spray. I use mineral oil and an artist long handled paint brush. I pour the oil into another bottle with a filp top spout, squirt some oil in the mold, then spread around with the brush, them insert a paper towel and swish around with the handle of the brush, to remove excess to leave a thin flim. Works great and way less expensive.

The first 2 things would be... Poor cold throw - Not very strong scent when you smell the candle cold. Very poor / light hot throw - Can not smell or very little scent when the candle is lit. Could be the wax is not a good formula. The scent not good quality or not enough scent in the wax (average is 1oz per 1lb of wax). Could be the wrong size or type of wick. Just some things to look for. Good Luck & Welcome to the candle addiction.

I find I can have a perfect candle when poured, in the candle room which has no AC and is about 80*F+, then when I move them to the store front, where there is AC and about 70*F, "wet spots" start to appear. So the temp. change is causing the wax to expand & contract, which leads to "wet spots".

Those look great. The only problem is the poly molds don't hold up very long. They get brittle & crack over time. To bad they are not made of a better plastic.

It has nothing to do with the density but specific gravity. Water will measure and weigh the same, FO's will not. It's the chemical compounds used to make up the FO's, each chemical will weight different. If you weigh a FO in a shot glass (with measurments) and 1oz by weight is less than 1oz by volume, then you have a heavy oil. If you order FO's from a supplier that only sells by weight, not volume, and you order 10 different scents that come in transparent bottles, you will see a different fill line on some of the bottles. You may think you are being cheated, but your not, heavy FO's take up less room in the bottle, by weight. That's why you need to measure you FO's by weight for your candles. Some of the known FO's to be heavy are... Vanillas Some of the Spices Sandlewood Patchoulli BTW - With heavy FO's you use less amounts and usually have to use a larger wick (wick-up). HTH Candle Man

If you do a search on here for J225 you will find info. The J225 is suppose to be an improvement over J223, but most people found it's not worth it and the J225 cost so much more. As far as "wet spots"...it doesen't matter what you do before or during the making of the candle, temp. changes is when they will so back up.

LOL - Glad I could be of help.

You also use the thumb screw to set the depth for different containers. Here are the instructions - http://www.easywicksys.com/The_Single.html

Everyone has their likes & dislikes and this is just one of my many. I just don't care for some of the new color trends out there. We all are different and it shows in the many different and wonderful things I see posted here. To each their own.