Jcandleattic

I'm assuming this is CP? Sometimes, especially when a soap is superfatted, some oil will seep out and then eventually soak back in.. Give it a few more hours, and it should be fine. Just make sure it's not lye heavy..

I love the white base part of it too. Looks very nice!

I'm with you Kelly, I've never had a problem getting a rustic finish with this wax. Just have to work with it a little differently is all.

Hmm? The ones I've seen from Scott Crew were less than $2.. The plastic ones, are what I use, and they work fine.

I have tried several pillar waxes, from straight paraffin to many preblends, and this is the wax I keep coming back too. The only thing Ihave a hard time getting this wax to do is rustics, but I can do it. Just takes a bit more effort.. All in all I love this wax and it definately is my main pillar wax.

Out of experience with both, go with the Upland. I promise you will not be sorry.. Although the kelsie;s are good, trust me the uplands are nicer and much easier to work with.. And yes, I have both!!

I use fresh frozen gm also, as my daughter shows dairy goats at our local fairs as well. It makes a really nice "luxury" bar.. I do as the others, I add the lye to frozen/slightly slushy gm then add to my normal soap oils. I prevent gel when I can, so it makes a nice light tan to beige bar of soap. The only thing I do differently is I actually pasturize my milk before freezing it. I have no idea if it is a needed step, but I do it just because that's how I learned and now it's grown to be a habit. Good luck and have fun with that GM.. It really does make a very nice bar!

A lot of it depends on the thickness of trace when poured, or whether the person "textured" the top after pouring and letting it set up a bit. The thicker the soap, the easier to make the swirly tops you are talking about. What I do to get that affect is wait for a thick trace to pour and then after it's in the mold and I've banged out all the air bubbles, I'll take the back of a spoon to the top of the soap and kinda texture it. HTH

They are decent molds. Sometimes the soap sticks in them so in mine that is kinda like that, what I do is take some mineral oil and lightly rub it on there before pouring the soap in there. Or if you have a big enough fridge put it in there before unmolding it. HTH

I have one from "Forcraftssake" and I LOVE IT!! Yes, it was very spendy, but IMO it was worth every penny, and I have only had to replace one of the wires once, and that was totally MY fault!! lol (frozen soap IS hard to cut!! lol) I've had mine for over 2 years, and that is the ONLY maintenance I've had to do. Love it!

Those are great! Very pretty!

It depends on what I'm wanting, but I mostly use IGI 4625 and IGI 1343.. Both have great qualities, and you can do soooo much with the 1343 that it's pretty much a universal wax.. Love that... But for quick easy, get it poured and get it done type of pillars, I use the 4625.. So easy to work with and great h/c throw, and beautiful burn everytime!

There are several different ways to swirl. You can swirl in the pot, swirl in the mold and so on. Easiest way IMO and the way I learned is in the pot swirl. (this method is for CP~it's a little different for MP) what you do is when your CP comes to a light trace take about a cup of raw soap out, color and set aside. Fragrance your uncolored portion, then take the reserve colored cup and from high up put about 4-5 drops in the pot at different spots in the bowl. Take your spoon and give it one or two at the max stirs, then pour in your mold.. That will get you started for swirls, and the rest is just practice.. HTH It's just basic, but like I said, it's a start.

That's a "that depends" kind of answer. Is it a container, and do you want them on top of your candle? is it a pillar and you want them to show through like chunks? or is it a gel candle that you are pouring over? There are a lot of variables, and it really "just depends".. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Be patient and make sure to stir, and another tip that's helped me with using GM as my liquid, is to work a little faster in getting the lye solution into the oils, because of the fat content will start to saponify.. You don't have to use lightening speed, but I pretty much just dump the solution into the oils as soon as the lye is completely mixed. Good luck. GM makes a LOVELY bar of soap.

I havent' but have thought about it. I think they may be too porous..

YOu can try SKS or ... Shoot there is another place, I can't think of the name of it. Essential bottles or something like that. Not sure if Kangaroo Blue would have them or not, but that's another place to try. HTH

Michi, next time try either putting it in the freezer or fridge for a few minutes and it should pop right out of the mold. Only problem I've had doing that, is the MP will sweat more. Glad it turned out for you.. I know a lot of people think doing MP is "cheating" but I don't think that at all!! You can get so creative with MP it's just amazing what people can come up with.

I made some a couple weeks ago, and the clear is still crystal clear. I thought the shreds might bleed over time, but so far so good.

For the Astor waxes that is a perfect burn! After about a YEAR of testing those waxes off and on, I think I finally got it down also. The bad thing is every wax, the F, PQ, G, ~ ALL of them take a different wick size for a good burn!! lol Makes no sense, but as along as I look at my notes I'm good. lol

I would probably wait a day or 2 to cut it. One way to test for lye is to do the tongue test. Actually "taste" the soap, and if it zaps your tongue then you have a lye heavy soap. If not, it probably is just oils and if you have enough lye in there, it should all absorb back in over time and be fine.. I can't help you with any advice on rebatching, as I've only done it once, and it was a disaster!! lol

Is the oil that oozes out lye? If not, and it's just oil, then it may just need some more cure time and will probably just absorb back in and be fine. If it's lye however, you may want to either rebatch, make laundry soap, or pitch it. HTH

Don't pour you MP too hot and pour slowly back and forth, don't pour too long in one spot, and you should be fine. My clear MP I don't heat up too much because if I do it becomes cloudy. HTH

Also try Wicks N Sticks. That's where I used to get mine. And that's exactly what they are called too. Drip candles. HTH

Possible, yes, plausible, no. You could do it, but IMO it *could* pose a fire hazard because as the candle burns down there is nothing to prevent the pic from curling in, getting in the meltpool and then catching fire. I would think you would be better getting the water decals paper and then printing your own decal and putting that directly on the glass. JMO~HTH