Jcandleattic

I've read a lot of recipes that use either stearic, sugar and alcohol, or just a ton of alcohol and sugar, etc., The type I'm making uses no alcohol or drying agents. In fact the way the instructions read, I will only be adding 1 ingredient to my base recipe. And that will be added after the cook (doing the HP method) If it turns out I will be using them only for embeds and not a stand alone soap (except maybe a few bars just as a test) and I will be making a small half pound batch...

Wish me luck. This is yet another project on my to-do list. I'm going to try and plan it out and make it Friday afternoon. IF it works out, I will post instructions and how-to's, etc., so y'all can make it too. Sounds almost too easy, so we'll see. LOL

Depends where you are at. Sometimes buying locally isn't really a bargain. Sometimes it's cheaper with shipping to buy elsewhere. I like Soapers Choice, WSP and MMS for my oils, however, most of the time WSP is cheaper for me than MMS even though MMS is only 1 state away and WSP is all the way on the other side of the country.

When you add mineral oil though, then you have to down load your scent. Wax will only hold a certain percentage of additives before it starts breaking down. It can also promote smoking where it would otherwise not be present. Honestly, take if from the seasoned chandlers, wet spots are not a big deal at all. The consumer does not notice them or if they do figure it's just part of the candle (which they are!) And most are used to seeing store bought candles. Have you ever seen a store bought container candle, and the wet spots on those?

What is the purpose for adding mineral oil? The only time I ever did that was when I was testing an unscented candles, and I wanted it to mimic having scent. (Ugh, later I realized how unnecessary that was because I would just have to retest an unscented candle) I don't remember my results as that was almost 15 years ago, only done once and never repeated. I do remember it being unnecessary and don't really know anybody that adds it candles, which is why I'm wondering why you would want to?

How cold is your ambient temperature where you pour? Almost sounds as if the wax is freezing. I've never had container wax (except 4786) come completely away from the jars like that. Nevermind. I kept reading and see that your basement is very cold. I'll be that's the reason, and wouldn't worry about it too much. Once you bring the poured candles into a warmer environment they should warm up and adhere (somewhat) to the jar...

Best tip? Embrace them. They are a fact of container candle making, and the only people it bothers are the candle makers themselves. Consumers really just don't care. (or even notice them unless they are pointed out) And the problem with finally eliminating them, is that when the temperature changes, they will just reappear. Then all your hard work is for naught. I learned a long time ago, to just not worry about them and have been very happy and less stressed since. It really is just a fact of candle-making and purely an aesthetic problem and nothing else.

It can make it cloudy. How cloudy depends on the oil itself and the coloring the oil itself has. It's been years since I've done that though, so it's hard to remember if it always did it or not. Sorry. More experienced people will be by to help more soon, I'm sure.

Most people figure pricing by figuring cost of goods (whatever those goods are, so yours most likely is: wax, wick, scent, color, time, overhead) times 4 for retail and times 2 for wholesale. For me personally, I rarely ever comparison shop for pricing. Honestly I don't care what others are selling their wares for compared to mine. What I do care about is what my goods cost me to make and I then price accordingly. Maybe that sounds naive of me, but it's what has worked for the better part of 15 years, so I stick with it.

Oh yeah, then I would go with Oriental Trading. 144 of them for 9.99 and cheap shipping, (there are other embed-able toys and stuff for cheap there too) I rarely get a wonky fish. Just some with bent fins/tails that if you either heat a little, or set something on for a day or so, bend right back...

That happens to me quite often. I hate it. Right now I'm glad it hasn't happened because of the water damage, and not having anything really repaired right now, just dug/ripped up, dried out, and ready to be repaired my house has a funky smell to it, so I've been burning more candles recently than I normally do. It's made a huge difference. I hope your sense of smell comes back soon!!

I always get mine from Oriental Trading. It's been a while since I've needed to get any because I get them by the gross (144 per) and they can be a bit bent, but that can be remedied. What do you mean by no good? Just curious...

Maybe this will help? (I know nothing about it, so disregard if it doesn't help! LOL) http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Almond-Flour-or-Meal This is a quote from the 2nd process of making Almond Meal - "While there is no official difference between almond flour and almond meal, the unofficial difference is that flour contains blanched almonds and meal contains almonds with the skins still intact."

I don't know how I missed this back then, but wow. What a nice set up!!

How long are the testers waiting in between burns? How long are they burning it each time? Are they getting full MP on the 3rd or consequential burns? The reason I ask is they could get what we all get from time to time - candle nose. And after a few burns - especially if they are long burns - they may not be able to smell it because they are so used to the scent. If it tested fine with you, it could be the way they are burning them. Do they have a test sheet to keep notes on what they are observing - in essence are they testing they way you tested the candles? And if not, what are the variables. There is a lot that goes into the testing of candles, especially when given out to others. I always give them a tester sheet to fill out while testing for me so I know exactly how they are burning them and what they are observing. If the fragrance sank to the bottom, you would see that on the bottom of the candle. That usually only happens with heavier FO's, such as vanilla. I wouldn't change your formula until you have all the answers. Too much vybar and you can bind your scent and get no throw at all. Pour temp, well, that would burn off scent if it was too high, however, that wouldn't really affect the 3rd burn, it would affect all the burns. Same with cooling speed. That would affect how the candle set up, not necessarily the scent throw. Stirring time - ?? if it's all incorporated, that wouldn't affect the scent throw. Additive - do you have them now? When you did your tests? Again, if your tests were to your satisfaction before giving out these candles, than I wouldn't mess with additives. Sometimes the additives will/can enhance the burn, but more often than not, they can inhibit the very thing you are trying to enhance. My advice? As stated earlier get the answers to your questions, and wait until the candle is completely consumed. As you know, a candle is not fully tested and you don't have all of your answers until the candle is burned to completion. Good luck!

Personally, even if it does, I don't think it will be enough to make a significant difference.

I think we all fall in love with the first wax we master. For me that was J50, and then I tried the J223 because I had heard so much about it at the time. And well, it just didn't do it for me. LOL

I could never get the J223 to work for me, even though I tested it on numerous occasions. It just wasn't the wax for me, so I went with the J50. And that up there should have said I tried a 20 (twenty) lb tester not 200! LOL

Yes, what TT said, but to expound a bit, also please be aware that no matter what, all soap (including m&p - even the best kind) start off with lye added as an ingredient, and all soap (when made correctly) in it's final form has no active lye present, only saponified oils. (well, not only saponified oils, some are free floating if there was a SF calculated in - etc., but you get my drift. ) I guess what really needs to be known is why the question is asked as TT had said. Is it because they don't want "old fashioned lye soap" or is it because they want to know if it's "all natural" or because they are just repeating some ploy/marketing they have heard over the years? Because knowing that information, will also help you to best answer the question.

Very pretty!! Love the rose mold. I have 3 that are very similar to that one and I use it a lot - not just around Valentine and not just with rose scent.

IGI4636 is the new J50 - and Lonestar, Aztec and Bittercreek carry it. I tried a 200lb tester of it from Bittercreek about a year ago and it is very comparable to when Astorlite made it. In fact in my testing (although limited with only 20lbs) it performed exactly the same. I was able to make 2 candles of every size container I made, using well known scents both tricky and easy to wick, and I liked my results. Now the fun part is when I'm out of my original J50 is finding the cheapest pallet price for the 4636. That will be a daunting task. I'm going to speak with Alan or someone from Peak and see if they can special order it for me. Actually I just looked it up and there are a lot of suppliers that carry it. I thought Candles and Supplies was one of them, but maybe not. Can't find it on their site, or on this list... https://www.google.com/search?q=IGI+4636&oq=IGI+4636&aqs=chrome..69i57.5792j0j1&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

Right now, I'm loving my own blends. My last blend that is probably my favorite right now is Dragonfruit mixed with Botanical Orchard Nectar. That one is really a good one, and so far hasn't faded in my soap. I haven't put it in wax though... Another one of my favorites is NG's Satsuma and Peak's Pink Sugar. Smells just like a Ruby Red Grapefruit. (Thanks Candybee for reminding me about that mix!! ) There are about 10 mix ideas that I have floating around in my head, that I haven't had a chance to get to, but (in my mind) seem like they are promising. We'll see...

Another tutorial by our very own Scented - which are also BEAUTIFUL!! http://www.craftserver.com/page/articles.html/_/tutorials/pillars/wave-candles-by-scented-r16

Here is a tutorial on tilted rustic pillars. It's done by a member here (although I haven't seen her in a really long time) and she makes GORGEOUS rustic tilted layer candles. In this size candle, and the 4625 (which I do use on occasion) I would start with a 24ply braided wick. Also, you don't have to use wick pins. You can wick your mold, and apply the same technique that is shown in the tutorial. http://www.craftserver.com/page/articles.html/_/tutorials/pillars/tilted-layered-rustics-r86

Eventually I'm going to make it to NG's storefront. Problem is I'm in CO, so while Peak is literally 10 minutes away and a few other suppliers are close, the rest require a road-trip vacation...