BusyBee

By the look of your melted wax, I think you are going to need little bit of more of fire power. ECO should be little bit hotter wick. Your candle is only a tester, and it looks better than this. This one is final product.

https://www.candlewic.com/store/category.aspx?q=c61 CandleWic has most of them.

You might want to make testers without putting a wick at all from the start. This way, it is a lot easier and faster to keep on changing the wicks. Poke a hole in the middle, put a wick, test burn, take them out, put another.... (By the way, that's 464 in the picutre.)

Thank you for posting that picture! That picture lead me to discovery of new wick. That wick in the picture turns out to be wick made by "EricX Light" of China. Even though I am not big fan of putting Chinese ingredients in my candle, I think I might try one of their wick. They have a hemp wick, which got me interest to try in my soy candle. m/EricX-Light-Organic-Pre-Waxed-Natural/dp/B01M36EZU9?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Are you using GB464 instead of 6006?

May I ask what wick you are using? I don't recall anything like yours.

✌️ Good luck to you!

Here is Vybar information from Baker Hughes, the maker of Vybar. https://www.bhge.com/industrial/specialty-chemicals/specialty-polymers/candles *Vybar can be used to hold more FO in basic paraffin wax, but it might cause negative effect on other pre-blended waxes. You had the right idea to add Vybar to enhance HT. I did have the same idea as beginner of candle making to add max Vybar to able to maximize HT, which turned out to be bad idea. All of pre-blended wax already has some type of Vybar like agents added in the wax. If you add too much Vybar, then it will actually lock the scents instead of releasing them. So, other people are right about suggesting not to add Vybar to 6006. There is one question. Did you add Vybar to wax melts also? There are many people in this Forum that has good candle using only 6% FO, but I am one of those who likes to go for the max capacity which in my case I go with 12% FO. I guess either way will work, but 6% FO can save a lot production cost. The wick is most important part of having great HT. Type of wax & FOs are important also. But if you don't wick it right, then there is going to be no HT. I am one of those who likes to go with 100% soy or 100% paraffin. So, I don't know anything about your 6006, but I am pretty sure others will help you on 6006.

I always thought it was the wick that was cause of soot, but then your post made me think it could be the FOs also. I have found a scented paraffin wax candle that burned beautifully without any soot even in heavy drift. So, I pulled the wick out from that candle and put it in my heavy loaded FO soy candle, and it burned beautifully doing the same thing. No soot even in heavy drift, no mushroom, no trimming required, quick full melt pool but container stays cool, nice decent size flame, great HT, etc. This was the reason I believed it is the WICK that matters most, and I think I have discovered THE WICK for my candle. But then come to think of it, I had experience where I could have put any wick in coconut wax without FO to make it burn really well. No soot, clean shallow full melt pool, nice little flame, no mushrooming, etc. But when I added even just little bit of FO, black soot was coming out. So, which is it? You got me into think I need to do a lot more experiment again from different angle. Thanks! I guess this learning process is never ending journey.

I guess there are several different ways.

I am soy wax user, and General Wax only has 4 FOs for soy wax. Still, I have tried few FOs from there due to close distance from my house, and CT & HT did not impress me. Most of their products are from China, and I have feeling that China is where they are getting their FOs also. Some other person might have had great experience with their FOs other than 4 soy wax FOs that they have.

I live in Southern CA, and I do have little bit of information regarding UPS truck. During hot summer when temperature is around 110F in the desert area, temperature in back of UPS truck is about 146F. (UPS driver showed me his thermometer.) I even drove around with candles in my car with full A/C on, and it still caused lots of seepage. Phoenix AZ, Las Vegas NV, and Palm Springs CA have similar weather during summer time. At this moment, I have no clue how to ship or deliver any candle to desert area during hot summer.

Thank you! I did get to try it, and it worked better than I thought it would be. I tried it in pouring pots. Now, I am thinking of getting this cheap paint mixer for my wax melting tank instead of getting $2,000 agitator they sell.

Cottonwood Wick = 2 hours & 15 minutes of Happiness! I was in similar situation as you are with 464 & C3. 464 was available 20 min. drive away & C3 was 1 hour away. So, I tried out 464 and stuck with it since. I am very curious how your comparison is going to come out. I have tried cottonwood wick in 464, and I thought I had the best candle in the world and that lasted for 2 hours & 15 minutes. Wax was burning really clean(no more sticky wax), quick melt pool without getting too hot, cute little flame, great HT, zero soot(even in heavy drift), smooth mirror like clean top after I blow out the candle, only little white puff when blowing out candle... What can you ask more from a candle? But then after 2 hr & 15 min, it was producing a lot of black smoke, wax was burning & turning into brown color, burnt fuel smell, etc. Some other people were having similar problem after 3 hours. You should definitely try this wick, so you can see how beautifully soy wax can able to perform during that 2 hour time frame. But, don't order too many. It will give you guideline what you need to aiming for with soy wax candle. If you can somehow figure out a way to make this wick work entire life of candle, then it is going to be the one of two best wicks in the world.

Your P9056 is pillar candle wax. Only paraffin Kerawax that is for container candle is 4105 (the one used in Royal Wedding of Prince Harry). It is recommended to stir vigorously for 2 minutes here in US for mixing wax, FO & dye. I am not sure about Kerawax, but I believe it should be the same with any wax. My suggestion is to try 4105. Vybar can produce marbleized look to the top open portion in container candles. This could be one of the reason also.