Siren12

I found another wheel that i found found that i feel like is more user friendly, only because the Lebermuth has repeats that make is confusing to me. The one i attached works more like a traditional color wheel for me. Here is a link to additional scent charts that i found. http://perfumersupplyhouse.com/2014/01/09/fragrance-creation-wheels-for-you/

I really like the CS Frasier Fir but I havent tried any other evergreen scents from other suppliers. I need to get more of the CS Frasier Fir- I mixed it with CS Driftwood and i feel like it toned it down a bit ( Driftwood -Top: Sandalwood, patchouliMiddle: Cedarwood, musk Base: Vanilla, clove). It was probably the little bit of vanilla in the Driftwood that took some of the sharpness out. I did 2/3 frasier fir and 1/3 driftwood and and it was a really nice combo. said it on another thread but i am going to call it Seaside Holiday, when i burned my testers I mostly smelled the Frasier fir, but the driftwood added some really interesting notes i might need to bump the Driftwood up a tad so that its not too close to the straight Frasier Fir which i plan to make candles of.

Those are so freaking awesome!!! love it! do you sell them in any shops? i think you could do really well this time of year in a shop that sells home decor especially if they do seasonal themes.

I use GB 444 soy and usually pour around 170 to 175 and its still very clear and liquid. I agree with chefmom that they must be pouring it very cool in order to get the swirl, maybe 100- 120 deg? Ive never gone that cool before. I guess try it out? Fyi the scent in their candles is really good, my husband gor me one when we were still dating and it was one of the reasons i decided to make my own. You could get similar buckets in aluminium and spray paint them, i also think that Michaels carries black buckets that are similar so there are probably wholesale distributors online.

Here is a site that has some really cool jars/ containers, and they have colored glass in some of them also. https://www.glassnow.com/

That would awesome! If you find it i would for sure be interested (because my handwriting stinks lol)

So many good tips trappeur! The candles look nice, but like trappeur said I would prefer some more information on the labels like your location, type of wax, and size candle. Here is an example of mine. I get them printed by avery and write in the scent ( i saw someone has stamps with the names of scents and i want to do that acutally but havent gotten stamps yet). This is my second go at labels i liked the scent name printed out better but i make such small batches its better to buy them blank and write it in. For photos its pretty easy to make you own light box for white backgrounds to really make your product stand out. Personally I dont have the time to try to promote my candles online so i chose to rent a booth at an antique/local shop. Products look nice!

Thank you all so much!!!! Great information. I reallt had no idea on where to start I truely dont have too much time right now to work on making my own base. I will research and try a M&P to see how it goes. Thanks again!

Soo.... I want to start making soap but dont know where to start. I have looked at supplies on Candle Science just because 1) I get my candle supplies from them and 2) I knew that they just started to carry soap supplies. I just looked and noticed that they only carry "melt and pour" soap supplies. Does the Melt and pour mean that they already did all of the necessary steps with the Lye? How did you start making soap? I was thinking that eventually i would want to sell soap with my candles, I feel like it would be cheating if I didnt do everything from scratch. Am i way off base with this? Help- Soap intimidates me for some reason.

Personally I would assume that the density of the liquid dye was the same as water, which when you convert the oz to fl oz they basically equal 1 ( even though i know that the dye is going to have a greater density). I also think it would be too much of a head ache for me to separate the drops out to new bottles and honestly you would probably be wasting time and money trying to do that. when you divide the cost ($4.88 without shipping) it ends up being just about a penny per drop (using 500 drops as an estimate). IMHO its not worth the effort - I do understand why you would want to know exactly how much you could get out of 1oz though

thats why i said that you would need to find out the specific gravity of the dye to get a more accurate measurement

if you have a 1oz Bottle of the dye it will approximately be 29.57ml technically it would probably be a bit more than that but you would need to find out the specific gravity of the liquid dye. so if you divide the 29.57ml of the dye by the 0.05 ml per drop you should get about 591 drops per 1oz bottle (assuming i did my math right)

What about switching their dropper out with a calibrated glass dropper? its going to be by volume but i believe but you should be able to convert that to weight? I'm not sure if that would help you out at all. This is from Wiki How much is a drop? The minim was defined as one 60th of a fluid dram or one 480th of a fluid ounce. This is equal to about 61.6 μL (U.S.) or 59.2 μL (Britain). Pharmacists have since moved to metric measurements, with a drop being rounded to exactly 0.05 mL (that is, 20 drops per milliliter). or you could probably use disposable pipettes https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B00KWFV58O/ref=pd_lpo_121_bs_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7TQ4RHJF7VSVWWDY7HV7

i was about to reply that i do it by weight, good to have an answer from them though. CS is pretty good at getting answers.

i believe thats how it works, i would think that if the Credit card company approved it then they would need to refund the money. I think that most likely they didn't recognize the shop on their bill, clearly they look at it frequently if they caught it by the next day. also i would have thought they would have responded to you by now. hope everything works out.

I was surprised to see that it was that low of a temperature, I am sure that they have other lines that can handle higher temperatures. its just hard when you have to search for that kind of information. fyi- Rust-oleum doesnt give a warning about Temperature for the chalk spray paints https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Chalked/CHD-07_Chalked_Ultra_Matte_Sprays_TDS.ashx

Love!! i love Brookyln candle studio and Skeem's designs. the closest pre-made jars like the 1st one is @ Luxury candle supplies, unfortunately they are in Australia ;-( and the shipping is outrageous. I WISH there was a US based supplier. i got some from them a while back and love them, we'll see how they sell during the holiday season. ( the metallic jars) https://luxurycandlesupplies.com/

I am going to add that i went to go find the heat resistance for Krylon paints and I could not find it on the product info, but the Rust-oleum was really easy

so this is the product information for the "rust-oleum painters touch 2X ultra cover enamel spray" line "Use outdoors or in a well ventilated area such as an open garage. Use when temperature is between 50-90°F (10- 32°C) and humidity is below 65% to ensure proper drying. Do not apply to surfaces, when heated, exceed 200°F (93°C). Do not apply to galvanized steel." https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X/PTX-01_Painters_Touch_Ultra_Cover_2X_Enamel_Sprays_TDS.ashx you would want to look at the product application/ painting conditions for the paints. I think in general the chalk paints should be okay I would be most concerned with the clear coats. (but i could be wrong about that) I did find an automotive high heat clear coat that is for surfaces that get up to 2000 deg. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260771-11-Ounce-Degrees/dp/B006ZLQ0JI you could also do some testers to see what happens if you burn a candle all day long. - I have been wanting to do chalk paint jars with candles for a while, i just haven't gotten around to it yet. I have used the FolkArt Acrylic Enamel paints and baked them, no issues with those. And i have also done my hobnail with just the chalk paint and haven't had any issues- but i did not use a top coat. I bought some spray paints a few months ago and was going to spray some of my hobnail jars but havent gotten to it, now i need to look at the product info now that I thought about it, it didnt cross my mind before. The mod podge / a paint on clear coat would be a good option i think. they also sell the wax sealant for the chalk paint im not sure if that has heat restrictions though.

This sounds like an awesome idea!

Have you given any candles to friends to test for you? sometimes i have trouble smelling my candles because I have gone nose blind.

awesome! I cant wait to get to try it out, i think that they would be a nice addition during the holidays. if everything goes right my husband and i are about to move and i will have an entire candle room to try out tapers along with making my jars that i currently sell. I want to get supplies for these right now but really shouldn't since I'll get stuck carrying all the wax down 3 flights of stairs ;-( I was thinking that the Bees was was the way to go, any good suggestions for suppliers or forms of how the bees wax comes? is a block better than pellets etc or they basically the same? do you use local bees wax? is that hard to find/ clean?

ehhh! my head is spinning! these all sound so great.

Do any of you make your own hand dipped taper candles? i kind of want to try it but don't really know where to start. The last time I did it was at some kids event/ field trip when I was young, and then i only did the top coats. I use GB 444 soy right now for my jars and i feel like that will be too soft, or I don't know what kind of wick to even start with either.

Thanks you so much or all of the great advice!