Clear Black

What would you folks suggest for cure time in a 60/40 para-soy. The 40% being 464. Should I still wait the standard two weeks as if I were doing a 100% 464 soy? Typically with the paraffin I use the cure time is 24-48. Hardly none needed.

Hehe. No worries hun.

Lol, I am a HE Trap ;D

Where on earth do you get adhesive backed canvas and have it be affordable enough to justify the cost?

Im only using MS Paint and the label design that comes with onlinelabels.com. Think they call it Maestro Label Designer Nothing special, nothing fancy. Some day I hope to get a copy of Adobe Illustrator so I can design labels with vectors. Would be fun to learn

Trap, do you design these yourself? If so, what programs are you using and how/where do you get the stock images, ie, the hearts and whatnot

Not just clipart though. There are sites out there that offer all sorts of images for a small price. 123rf.com Its a sub based or credit based image hosting site where contributors basically put their images up for sale, in a nutshell anyways. As always, read the fine print but it basically says that when YOU purchase the right to use the image only YOU have the right to use that image. For instance, as a label designer I couldnt purchase the rights to an image, use it in a particular design for YOUR candles. It would have to be something for me and only me. Not sure that makes sense but there are many sites out there that offer royalty free (RF) images. You just need to make sure that the image you purchase is ok to use in the fashion you want.

I did this in less than 4 minutes, but this is what I was talking about above. Just a suggestion, nothing more, Im bored drinking coffee lol. But hey, why not offer help eh?

My only suggestion would be to space out the honeycomb a bit more. It looks crammed in there between the two words. You have room to move the Honey one spot left and Coast one spot to the right. Leaving ample space for the honeycomb logo in middle. My other suggestion would be to remove the single honeycomb in the middle, and make that entire top "Name Bar" all honeycomb, leaving the business name in Black and on the top layer as is now. Not sure if you have ever worked in layers, but its easy once you begin and get familiar

I can only give information on the wicks from woodcandlewick.com, as those are the only ones ive ever used. They DO sell different thickness ones if you are ever interested in buying a sample pack from them TT, although I cannot remember if you get different thickness ones in the sample pack. I think once i narrowed down what size wood wick to use I then bought a 100 bag of .30 thick ones

TT, what thickness wood wicks did you get? They sell .20 and .30 I found the .30 thickness ones to stay lit just fine, but you can always double up on x2 .20 wicks and test from there. It will at least let you figure out if the .30's will work better than just one .20 that may be snuffing itself out.

Also, I may want to point out, you stated above that your melt pool wasnt to the edge after your first 3 hour burn. This is actually a GOOD thing. You never want a full melt pool after your first 3-4 hour burn. Typically if you DID have a full MP that early, later on in the bottom half of the candle, the tin would be way too hot and your burn on the brink of being a danger hazard. Just my 2 cents anyways.,

Start here. http://www.woodcandlewick.com/ Scroll to the bottom and order the sampler pack. It comes with I think 5 of each type/size and 20 sustainers. Ive ordered from them in the past when testing and they are really good quality wicks. I believe they are the patent holders so I always trusted the product. As far as which wick to use I cannot help due to not having any previous experience using your wax. Good luck

Hey Trap! No, I decided not to follow through with that jar. They are very heavy weight glass and shipping was just not justified enough to do further testing. I have since moved on to what I want to be the last container I test. I have grown rather attached to how my final design looks when they are labeled and packaged, I just need to gdt the wick and fragrance load to where I get less soot and mushroom at the bottom 1/3 of the container. The container in question is a 1 pint (16oz) paint can. There are a few sellers on the market who use these and I myself fell in love with it so its what I am using for now. Here is the container: http://www.thecarycompany.com/metal-paint-can-30ws8u In hand it measures about 3.5" tall with just about a 2.75" opening and a total diameter of 3". So I am testing for a 3" opening but the 1/4" lip that the lid sits on doesnt really factor in. I fill to that line and it takes 13oz of wax. On a side note Trap, you still planning on moving here?

Flicker as stated above the jar is 3.5" tall and 3" wide. Do you use 4627? 6% may work and be fine for whichever wax you use but 4627 has a max load of 11-12% depending on which supplier you are getting your information from. Now, i figured I would go down to 10% seeing how thats not the max and I love the HT/CT at that %. I am willing to go down to 8% but at that loint I might as well move on to a less messy, cumbersome wax. I will try a tester at 8% tonight and burn. In regards to how long I burn..I always burn at minimum 3-4 hours. Then power burn a bit, then back to 3-4 hours. Being as soft as this wax is tunneling is never an issue. Flicker, if you use 4627 may I ask what wicks you use and if so what would you suggest for a 3" diameter jar in those wicks? TIA

As the title says. The top 2/3 of the jar my wick behaves nicely and minimal soot. Once I get down to the last 1/3 I basically have to trim the wick every 30 minutes or it starts to get carbon buildups and the flame dies down. This is also where the soot kicks into overdrive and starts getting noticable. The jar is 3.5 in tall with an opening about 3 in. Im using 4627 at 10% with a premier 790 or 799. Both acted the same and the 799 is as big as the premier line goes. I ordered the largest wick of all the top named wicks and will compare to see if they all behave the same. Any thoughts? Ive considered dropping the frag load to 8% but feel as if 4627 should be able to handle a 10% load. Ive also thought of cutting in some 464 at 25%. So 4627 @ 75% and the remaing 25% add in 464. Would adding this soy at least help with soot? I know it wouldnt eliminate it completly as all parafins tend to soot a bit more... Halp lol

Does anyone here blend 464 and 4627? If so, any info on how it behaves or other characteristics you could give?

They are actually 16 oz (1 pint) paint cans. Its a 3.25 " diameter candle. It wasnt so much which LX wick do I use, I was more asking how true the claim is to this wick being self trimming. Its mushrooming I was having problems with using Premier wicks.

But its not glassware, more ceramics. Would this still fall under those guidlines?

Has anyone ever tried these? I am having issues with mushrooming in the bottom half of my jar and am getting just a bit fed up. Currently I use a Premier 790. After my initial issues with mushrooming I wicked up, twice, and dropped my fragrance load by 2%. The jar burns perfectly, but only if I maintain a regime of snuffing and trimming the mushroom heads every hour for the bottom half of the burn. I doubt most potential customers will be as OCD as I am on wanting a well lit flame. So I decided to try out 3 different sizes of LX wicks. Candle Science touts them as self trimming, low mushroom when used with paraffins. (I use 4627 by the way) I got the LX 20, 22 and 24. Anyone with experience using these wicks please chime in. Thanks

Also, from what I remember working with 464, you should probably wait a minimum of 2 weeks before you test burn. 4-5 days just isnt enough time for a proper cure. And as others have said, 2 oz PP is a bit too high i think for 464. Even though they say its the max load, I made some at that fragrance load and the FO leeched out and never truly incorporated into the wax. It was just too much

TT. What type glue sticks do you use? I bought some at Michaels hobby store and its dang near impossible to get the glue to fully melt. It was in a glass bowl placed in a saucepan, double boiler style, and the glue stayed hard enough for me to not be able to stir in any wax or color chip. The glue was just purchased so I know its a fresh batch. I also tried to microwave the glue with no luck. Im at a loss?

i missed that thanks. I would think the beeswax would make the wax seal brittle, but I have some here I use for lip balms I will give a try. Thanks for pointing that out

JC, Im not trying to MAKE candle NOR crayons, I just wanted to know what type of paraffin gives crayola crayons that softer creamier feel than the typical rock solid, brick-type paraffin. TT, when you made your seals do you remember the type of paraffin you used? Not for dipping, for just run of the mill stamp type sealing. Thanks

I think I am more trying to replicate a crayon more than use them as is. I also want to make a few personilized wax stamp seals and a good way to DIY those is to take a 2:1 ratio of crayon:glue stick and make a plyable wax for wax stamp sealing. Hence the reason for wanting to clone my own crayons but am not sure which type of parrafin makes that softer crayon feel. If that makes sense lol