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How hot is your glass container?


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Hello! Do you ever decide to wick down because the glass is feeling too hot? What is your definition of "too hot"? I have a small glass container, nothing fancy, the diameter is the same throughout with the exception of the top coming in a bit for the screw cap. The diameter is 2.75" and height 3.5" and I'm using the RRD wick size 40 and cb 135 wax. I'm trying to determine if I need to drop down to a 37. I'm still trying to determine if I'm getting a good throw, but my concern is the glass temperature. I have done a few burns for 3-4 hours and the glass above the wax is quite hot - hot enough that you wouldn't pick the candle up by that part to move it. I've wicked down from what I had already tried and thought was too hot. There isn't really any hang-up and it's not tunneling. Do you have a rule of thumb for what you do in this case or do you not worry so much about the heat?

Thanks!

Jennifer

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I've been having this problem with jj's. I stopped using them for awhile because I was afraid someone would try to pick it up and have a spill or something. I agree with Stella- if it's too hot to pick up (above the melt pool line) then it's too hot.

Now I'm trying to use thicker glass to avoid this problem.

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I am probably wrong as usual, but didn't the IGCA or some ruling body say something about any container should never exceed 175F?

Again, probably wrong.

It was the ASTM but you are right.

The ASTM determined that 175F was the maximum temperature for a candle jar above the meltpool.

Karen

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175° is far above what most normal people can stand to hold. 140° is as hot as I can hold for more than a few seconds, and that's frickin' hot.

(I only know cuz we have radiant floor heat and I can test down near the boiler, we have a thermometer on our copper lines and at 140° it's impossible to hold on to.....and I'm no wimp ;))

So even if you can't comfortably hold onto it, chances are (unless your flaming like a blow torch) that you'll fall under that 175° guideline. I know all the jars and tins I've tested have never come close.

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so how can one really get a temp out of the glass above the melt pool to know that you are within the guide lines? I touch mine and yeah they are hot and sometimes to hot touch so I wick down but then I have so much hang up or wax left on the bottom I go on to try differnt wicks and its like a never ending circle ya know.

Tonight I finished 3 candles all the way down...no soot and the jar was not hot but there wasnt any wax left at the bottom either and that dang wick just kept burning, so tomorrow I will make another and wick down and hopefully will have no hang up and a little wax left at the bottom of jar

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so how can one really get a temp out of the glass above the melt pool to know that you are within the guide lines? I touch mine and yeah they are hot and sometimes to hot touch so I wick down but then I have so much hang up or wax left on the bottom I go on to try differnt wicks and its like a never ending circle ya know.

Tonight I finished 3 candles all the way down...no soot and the jar was not hot but there wasnt any wax left at the bottom either and that dang wick just kept burning, so tomorrow I will make another and wick down and hopefully will have no hang up and a little wax left at the bottom of jar

It sounds like your wicking is right, so maybe you could just try a wick with a 6mm tab so it stops burning a little higher?

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You might also invest in an infra-red thermometer. They are fairly inexpensive when you factor in that they don't break every month like the glass ones. I got mine on ebay for under $25 with shipping. It is digital and way more accurate than the candy therms. You can literally use it for everything...your wax, your glass while burning...whatever your heart desires...just point and click!

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but there wasnt any wax left at the bottom either and that dang wick just kept burning

Dawg, this is NOT a problem with the size of your wick. It happens because your sustainer base has failed. This can happen for two reasons:

1. Whatever you are using to stick the wicktab to the container is leaking and the wick is continuing to suck liquid wax into it from below the top of the sustainer base.

2. Another problem is that the crimp on some wick assemblies pierces the neck of the wick tab and makes a hole which allows liquid wax to enter the wick from the hole, well below the top of the wicktab. So in either case - leaking from underneath or from the crimp hole - the wick continues to suck liquid wax. It won't matter how tall the wicktab is so long as there is a hole through which the wick can continue to suck liquid wax.

I use high-temperature RTV silicon gasket maker/sealer from Autozone. It's rated for 600°. So long as the neck of the wicktab is not pierced by the crimp, I have no problems with the wick continuing to suck liquid wax. If your wick assemblies have crimps that pierce the neck of the sustainer base, put a dot of the RTV in the hole made by the crimping to seal it.

Others report no problems using wick stickers. I haven't used them much, so I don't know whether they will allow leaking or not. HTH :D

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Wick down. The jar needs to be cool enough to wrap your hand around it without burning yourself. I prefer my jars cool enough to put my hands around it and even be able keep my hand on it without burning myself. I prefer zinc wicks now days with my soy. They burn cooler and still give a perfect melt pool, and they are rigid and stay standing up straight. You might want to try those.

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Stella is exactly right. The size, or type, of wick has no impact on this. If your wick continues to burn down below the neck, you need to use something to secure and seal the bottom of the wick tab. I'm one of those who uses and loves wick stickums. Fast, instant, and total adhesion around prevents wax from continuing to wick up.

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