Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok so i called C&S and asked why there was no tab for them she said that you wait until the candle is set some and then push the wood wick in and that they didnt need a tab. Thought that was a little strange so I hot glued the leveled wick to the bottom of the glass jar like I would if it was tabbed, it stuck great. The only problem with this method is that as soon as you pour the hot wax into the jar whatever they used to soak the wood in that makes it brown bleeds off into the wax some and makes an ugly brown swirl. So maybe thats why you wait until the wax has set up some. The brown stuff did burn off when the wood wick was lit but it still made for an ugly candle before burning.:undecided

Now on to the burning, I use a 12 oz newport jar that holds 8 ounces of melted wax , and C&S 1275 wax, the first thing I didnt like about the wood wick was the crackling sparking when it was first lit, kinda like embers popping out of a fireplace although I think if I'd had the wick trimmed down more it might not do that, I have a full melt pool after 35 minutes and the melt pool is about 1/4 inch deep . Hot throw is great , no soot so far and very little smoke now and then. It makes a very slight crackling sound, will know more when it burns for a little longer. I have pics of the burn as well that i can post if anyone wants to see them..

Posted
I would really be interested in the pictures!

Not sure I like the idea of the wick not being anchored to the bottom of the jar....:shocked2:

I felt the same way thats why I glued the sucker down LOL but then I got the brown swirl in my newly poured wax, made it look ugggggllly until I burned it! lol They said wait until it cools some then shove it in.. :shocked2: havent tried that yet. The debris in the candle wax in the pics is my fault, I trimmed the wick while it was still hot and it stuck in the wax.. duh. LOL:D

post-4695-139458416951_thumb.jpg

post-4695-13945841696_thumb.jpg

post-4695-139458416968_thumb.jpg

Posted

I thought the main reason for the tab was safety - to keep the burn from actually reaching the bottom of the container. And to make the wick easier to work with, of course.

Posted

Thats exactly what I thought! Theres nothing to make the candle go out, talk about your liability. it would probably keep burning until there was nothing but cinders left. I'll let you know what happens when I reach the bottom of the jar, I'll be keeping a careful eye on it as it nears the end.

Posted

I'd think that if it isn't secured to the bottom.. once the melt pool was large enough that it melted to the bottom of the jar, the wick would essentially just fall over into the wax, extinguishing itself.

Posted

maybe you'd do something like leave the wick 1/4"-1/2" from the bottom so there is a wax barrier between the bottom of the wick and the container and then it would probably do like gravity is talking about or drown itself when it reaches the end.

Posted

hmmm I think I'll try that with the next one, I'll wait until the wax sets up some then push the wood wick in until I think I have about an inch to a half inch between it and the bottom of the jar. I was wondering if the wick would fall over as well, guess I'll find out in the next round of testing.

Posted

uh....they told you that? i can see it falling over as soon as you have a full mp towards the bottom ...and what if it starts to lean , making the glass too hot and cracking or shattering?....bad idea i think. kudos to you for securing it.

Posted

OK blew it out earlier and relit and man was it like looking at a bonfire! Lots of smoke, huge flame. I honestly think these things are a waste of time. I talked to one of the girls at C&S today and they said to cut the wood wick in half so I'd have a smaller flame..not sure if that will work.

Posted

Thanks for sharing your testing pics! I thought I remember reading somewhere that the wood wick candles producers had some kind of patent or something making them impossible for others to sell? So, are they difficult to trim or is this going to need a special tool? I wonder if dipping them in a slightly higher melt point wax would help with the discoloration your experiencing?

Posted

They are easy to trim with scissors before you stick them in the jar, the angle's a little wrong after they are in lol Im sure there has to be an easier way to do it. Im thinking if I pour a little cooler I might not get the bleed from the wood wick but I havent had time to test another, hopefully today. This time Im cutting the wood wick in half due to the bonfire I had in the second burn. :cool2:

Posted
I'd think that if it isn't secured to the bottom.. once the melt pool was large enough that it melted to the bottom of the jar, the wick would essentially just fall over into the wax, extinguishing itself.

That's exactly what happens. We sell the Time again version of the wood wick candles and have burned many to the bottom... and yes the last piece just falls over and drowns.

Have a great day!

Chele

Posted
....she said that you wait until the candle is set some and then push the wood wick in and that they didnt need a tab..

That's just about the most libelous thing I've ever heard a supplier say!! C&S needs to be shot for that statement. Just push the damn thing in? And then just let it fall over? Give me a break.

These things are an accident waiting to happen IMO, and C&S, WSP (and the many more I'm sure will follow) just jumped to get them on the market to cash in on a passing fad. There are too many variables involved to make this a safe product. Every wax blend will burn differently, achieve different depth melt pools, etc. Wicks will fall over at different points, and they're not all going to just gently fall over and completely self extinguish. Dumb idea to me.

Posted

You know I just got an email from Wholesale Supplies Plus yesterday and they said they will soon have wood wicks. Maybe you should call them and they might have some more information on them. They might also be carrying a wick clip for them, atleast I hope so.

Honestly I am not sure if I would waste my time with them especially since there is no clip for them.

Posted

I agree, from someone whos now played around with them I wouldnt waste my money on them again. I just dont like the no wick tab and unless they come out with one for them wont use them other than to play around with here. Too dangerous in my opinion and way too much money to think about using permanently.

Posted

Wick tabs have little to do with safety and more with convenience when making the candle. It's difficult to just "push in" a normal, soft cotton wick, though you can make a hole with a needle or such afterwards heated up over a small flame (held with pliers). Tapers don't have tabs, for instance, are they dangerous? Are pillars without tabs dangerous?

Posted

I just dont think it's safe to have the wood wick unsecured to the bottom of the jar, and the flame gets very high as well as the cinders that pop off of them. To have the wick just fall over at the end seems unsafe to me. I for one am not willing to take the risk.

Posted
Wick tabs have little to do with safety and more with convenience when making the candle. It's difficult to just "push in" a normal, soft cotton wick, though you can make a hole with a needle or such afterwards heated up over a small flame (held with pliers). Tapers don't have tabs, for instance, are they dangerous? Are pillars without tabs dangerous?

I tend to agree.

Sustainers bases aren't a safety feature. Their main purpose is to keep the candle burning longer, otherwise the wick would fall over and drown. With a sustainer base the candle will keep burning well past the point that all the wax is liquified, adding burn time at the expense of safety. It's a reasonable exchange, especially if the tab is secured so it can't slide over.

As for pillars, it's the ones with tabs that are dangerous. Sustainer bases don't belong in free standing candles.

Posted

container candles need tabs because they have a deeper melt pool than a free standing candle and the wick is far more likely to fall over towards the bottom, or shift. i never use tabs in my pillars..only votives and container candles

Posted
I'm curious about your reasoning behind this...

They prevent the wick from extinguishing itself when the pillar burns to the bottom. You end up with a sustainer base and burning wick sitting on whatever surface the candle was placed on. By drawing wax through the hole in the bottom of the tab, the wick can soak up every drop from the melt pool before finally going out. It's a lousy design.

Posted
They prevent the wick from extinguishing itself when the pillar burns to the bottom. You end up with a sustainer base and burning wick sitting on whatever surface the candle was placed on. By drawing wax through the hole in the bottom of the tab, the wick can soak up every drop from the melt pool before finally going out. It's a lousy design.

I understand that it's not a necessity like in a container, but what make it more dangerous than using one in a container?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...