Wick getting drowned *help*

[Damagebird]

Help! Candle making newbie here so please excuse any ignorance!!! 

Made my first candle last night, long thin glass container. It's burning beautifully to start with. All the way to the edges etc. Then the flame gets smaller and smaller and gets drowned by the wax. I tried draining a little of the wax off and it burned brilliantly again for a while then the same problem. Everywhere I have looked online has only mentioned this happening when tunneling which is not the problem here. Pic attached is of when it was being made to give idea of size.  Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong please? Thank you in advance!!

[TallTayl]

It will really help if you tell us what wax and wick that is. The smaller the container the harder they are to work. The taller they are relative to the width also makes them hard to wick.

 

That container is like a very tall very narrow votive. 

 

Drowning out is often an invitation of overwicking . If you’re getting to a full melt pool on the very first burn with that it’s very likely overwicked.

[Trappeur]

Yep, I agree with what TT said.   From looking at your picture the wick looks like it is too big as it looks like a very large wick as it is really thick.

Just to help a bit....cut off that length of wick the part that is left hanging above the wicker centerer.   It will help you a lot in steadying and centering the wick.

 

And yes, what wax and wick is that and can you give the dimentions of that small jar too?

 

Trappeur

[Candybee]

Just wanted to add you wick centering tool is upside down.

[NightLight]

Long narrow containers even for seasoned candlemakers are hard to pour wax into and get good results. 

Here is what I would do. Go to Candle Science or other candlemaking supply shops online and buy a kit.

pour tins with suggested wicks.  

If you like what made I would then suggest picking one type of glass container - make sure it’s made for candle burning.

8 ounce Mason jars are popular. You can can then work with those and different waxes and wicks.

It’s easy to want to try different waxes and wicks but it take time and money. Simplify. 

Pick a wax, buy wick sample packs and start there. For testing keep a notebook, or I use removable paper labels with wax info and wick info.

For wick testing you can pour your wax into your jar without a wick, let it harden overnight. Make a hole with a skewer and put shortened test wick (you will need to cut wick) and place in hole. Label your jar with number and do a test burn.

Read the forums about test burn so you know what a properly wicked candle should burn like.

Parrafin and soy burn differently. Mixed blends burn differently. Different wicks burn differently. Many variables!

 

Do not make candles without securing wick to glass. A floating wick is dangerous! I use a hot glue gun from Lowe’s, those stickums

always unstick for me

[jjb]

I have tried several times with pure beeswax to make container candles.  The melting pool is way off, the wick burns out etc.  I need help in choosing the correct wick type, size etc. for container candles and molds.  Each sight on go on, it seems they do not have a positive help on wicks for beeswax.  Would appreciate any help, thank you.

[TallTayl]

37 minutes ago, jjb said:

I have tried several times with pure beeswax to make container candles.  The melting pool is way off, the wick burns out etc.  I need help in choosing the correct wick type, size etc. for container candles and molds.  Each sight on go on, it seems they do not have a positive help on wicks for beeswax.  Would appreciate any help, thank you.

Beeswax in containers is going to be an endless struggle.  Each lot of beeswax is very, very, very different. It continues to shrink and harden for years, making the wick Choice for a container exceedingly difficult. 

 

Beeswax does best in taper or pillars. The meltpoint of 145 (for very clean refined) and up mean a super hot flame is needed to get it melting and burning. Forcing a wax into the wrong application is like expecting a cat to succeed at being a fish. The cat might be able to swim for a while, but it will reach its limit fairly quickly. Container candles should not exceed 175*F for safety reasons as outlined by the ASTM. 

 

All that said, Square Braid wick is about the only thing that will reliably melt beeswax. I use a Square #5 in 3” wide pillars. It’s comparable in dimensions to a clothesline to give you an idea of what you’re facing. Beeswax burns down then out, so the well made candle will collapse down into itself not springing leaks. Every drop will be consumed. 

 

Square braid wick has no core, so if wicked too hot it will sag or slump in the melt pool giving the impression it is underwicked. All the while the excess wick is just looping down lower in the candles so at some point it will be exposed and all light in a giant flare (if your lucky it will drown before that point). 

 

Two ways I have dealt with pillars to make them feel like containers:

1- hurricane lamps- a glass tube that fits over the candle. This heats things up a lot, so it changes the burn. I’ve used glass vases, like at the dollar store, to contain the pillars. When it leaks at least th wax stays in the vessel. 

2- ive made candle followers that fit the tops tightly and “hug” the candle throughout the burn. No waste. No mess. No fuss. 

 

If you desperately want to have beeswax in a container, my best advice is to do what the Catholic Church does: blend with paraffin.  According to the Vatican, 51% beeswax and 49% paraffin is a Beeswax Candle. Some people swear by coconut oil. I’ve only found that to be a dirty burn personally. Coconut oil dries out with time and leads to cracks in the candle. Many beeswax blends in containers crack or cleave as they cool post burn. Only paraffin has been decently reliable in my years of trying. Your mileage may vary (YMMV).