Erratic Paraffin Pillar Results

[Quentin]

At what point in your pillar making journey with paraffin, do you know it's time to consider some sort of additives are needed?  Stearic acid perhaps? I've tried to do everything in a step-by-step, scientific method type of way.  I'm taking notes, etc.  I can't seem to get any sort of consistent results.  Really puzzled as to what should be done next. 

Q

Edited January 27, 2018 by Quentin
Tried to get a better image.

[birdcharm]

From your question, I'm guessing you're using a straight paraffin wax without any additives, is that right?

 

 

[grama]

Buy a blended paraffin pillar wax and you will have better results.  Sounds like birdcharm said, using straight paraffin.

[Scented]

So what desired results were you hoping for? To get an identical burn? I had many different reasons for additives but it started with fragrance percentage and poor scent throw. 

My favorite of the additives is stearic. My least favorite is UA (universal additive) and I can't remember what just freaked/spooked me about vybar. 

 

Edited January 29, 2018 by Scented

[Quentin]

On 1/27/2018 at 2:23 PM, birdcharm said:

From your question, I'm guessing you're using a straight paraffin wax without any additives, is that right?

 

 

I bought my first pack of paraffin at Michael's craft store. I got the 9lb package because of price. I thought all paraffins were the same. Not!  It was several weeks before I bothered to read the label that said it was used "for jars".  Back to the same place and got the one that was designated for "pillars". The package mentions nothing about additives but I'm assuming it has something or other. I ordered a slab of Country Lane brand "general purpose wax". It mentions nothing about additives, but it looks quite different from the other two. The previous ones were solid white. The Country Lane wax is sort of clear and icy looking. It resembles Crystal Meth in appearance. 

 

The picture I posted was of the Michael's pillar wax and the one on the right was the Country Lane.  

 

So many different opinions on temperatures and such. The waxmaker says do what the mold maker says. The mold maker says do what the waxmaker says! It looks to me like this whole candle thing is 33% chemistry, 33% trial and error and 33% like making Jello! The one percent that remains is the big unknown. I just keep plodding along. I'm not giving up. I'm obsessed with it now.

Q

[Quentin]

20 minutes ago, Scented said:

So what desired results were you hoping for? To get an identical burn? I had many different reasons for additives but it started with fragrance percentage and poor scent throw. 

My favorite of the additives is stearic. My least favorite is UA (universal additive) and I can't remember what just freaked/spooked me about vybar. 

 

No, I never expected an identical burn. I was merely satisfying my curiosity. I don't look at them as failures. I'm looking at what each one's strong points are. Right now I've got one on the shelf behind me that is a mixture of the two. I've taken an early retirement. I've got a lot of time on my hands. Just to be on the safe side, I ordered some stearic today.

Q

[debratant]

I am going to suggest trying a blended wax that already has the additives in it.  For example....the wax at Michaels is "okay" but honestly

if you are serious, you should try ordering online from a supplier.  For the price you paid at Amazon for Country Lane General Purpose Wax

you could order cheaper from a supplier who deals with wax.

 

Here is a link to Community Candle in Alabama

 

https://www.communitycandlesupply.com/products.php?cat=Pillar+Votive+Waxes

 

For pillars I use IGI 1343 which can mottle if I desire.  I also use IGI 4625.  

 

 

[Pam W]

On 1/28/2018 at 8:38 PM, Scented said:

So what desired results were you hoping for? To get an identical burn? I had many different reasons for additives but it started with fragrance percentage and poor scent throw. 

My favorite of the additives is stearic. My least favorite is UA (universal additive) and I can't remember what just freaked/spooked me about vybar. 

 

 

I stopped using Vybar when I learned that it could lock up the scent

Edited January 30, 2018 by Pam W

[Pam W]

Quentin:  you sound just like me about 15 yrs ago..lol.  When I first started playing around with candle making, I used the Michael's wax then I found the Craftserver Forum  :-).  Then I switched to IG 1343 and it was better but I discovered that I still had to add some steric to help harden the wax......then I discovered that I liked mottled and rustic type candles and to achieve the mottling effect I had to add more FO which of course increased the price then I switch to 1274 and have never looked back.  (Don't have to add more FO to get the mottled effect and that saves money in the long run) I still have to add some steric to the 1274 to keep it from bulging on long burns but I get a nice looking candle.

Now, to address the pics you posted:  With the shell as tall as it is, I'm guessing that you did not HUG this candle as it burned.  Hugging means taking your hands, wrapping them around the neck of the candle and squeezing that shell inward each time you blow out the candle.  Doing this will give you basically a level candle top next time you lite it.....with or without additives, this is a must.

Please know that you are not doing anything wrong but just learning....keep reading the forum and you will pick up tricks & techniques that will help with you ultimate goal.  Go way back into the archives and read. :-)

[birdcharm]

I think vybar has its place as an additive to paraffin, but you only use a very small amount and use the type designed for the meltpoint of the wax you're using.

 

A straight paraffin without any additives is not going to have a nice solid, opaque look to it, may be hard to release from the mold, etc.

 

 

[Scented]

I asked if identical for a reason. The taller candle, without seeing a wick or knowing the fragrance, could be underwicked or it could be something else. The short stub looks like the wick isn't always trimmed or wasn't for what may or may not have been the last burn, but it's sag to the right of it might have been avoided with hugging or additives ... hard to know because I don't have a lot of specifics and am left to guess. 

 

I think you'll like the addition of stearic, Quentin. 

 

20 hours ago, Pam W said:

Quentin:  you sound just like me about 15 yrs ago..lol.  When I first started playing around with candle making, I used the Michael's wax then I found the Craftserver Forum  :-).  Then I switched to IG 1343 and it was better but I discovered that I still had to add some steric to help harden the wax......then I discovered that I liked mottled and rustic type candles and to achieve the mottling effect I had to add more FO which of course increased the price then I switch to 1274 and have never looked back.  (Don't have to add more FO to get the mottled effect and that saves money in the long run) I still have to add some steric to the 1274 to keep it from bulging on long burns but I get a nice looking candle.

 

Yep I know this activity and pursuit of the wax that you just settle on and live/love/cuss at sometimes. Interestingly in working with 1343 I'm able to get mottle without the additional fragrance, but am finding it's more and more with the variances in heat perhaps. There was definitely far more consistency in mottles with 1274. 
I remember why I went away from stearic. I wanted to play in my wax and it took away some of the effects I wanted ... and of course ... I didn't want it to lock up scent either, but the UA was a PITA because all I got from it was fingernailing. 

 

[Quentin]

On 1/31/2018 at 3:18 PM, Scented said:

I asked if identical for a reason. The taller candle, without seeing a wick or knowing the fragrance, could be underwicked or it could be something else. The short stub looks like the wick isn't always trimmed or wasn't for what may or may not have been the last burn, but it's sag to the right of it might have been avoided with hugging or additives ... hard to know because I don't have a lot of specifics and am left to guess. 

 

I think you'll like the addition of stearic, Quentin. 

 

Yep I know this activity and pursuit of the wax that you just settle on and live/love/cuss at sometimes. Interestingly in working with 1343 I'm able to get mottle without the additional fragrance, but am finding it's more and more with the variances in heat perhaps. There was definitely far more consistency in mottles with 1274. 
I remember why I went away from stearic. I wanted to play in my wax and it took away some of the effects I wanted ... and of course ... I didn't want it to lock up scent either, but the UA was a PITA because all I got from it was fingernailing. 

 

First of all, let me apologize for the poor quality photo that I submitted. That's not my usual habit. The reason the wicks look so bad is simply because I had just blown them out to take the picture. I'm trimming my wicks religiously. Yes, I'm convinced now about the use of the proper size wick, use of additives and the correct wax for the job. Remember, I said I was just wanted to see what the difference would be between the two waxes with identical wicks (24 ply flat) and the same fragrance and coloring--- 12oz. Michael's Pillar wax for 10oz. mold vs. same amount of Country Lane "general purpose" candle wax. 25 ml of Mel's Bayberry Ess. Oil Blend. 1/4 block Color Science color tabs. Poured at somewhere around 171F over waxed wicks. 

 

Other than that and with my limited experience, that is all I have to offer you. I feel like a college freshman again, trying to answer a professor's 1st question of the first day of class.  I'll post another poor picture of the end results here soon. You ask some really tough questions.

[birdcharm]

On 1/31/2018 at 3:18 PM, Scented said:

... I remember why I went away from stearic. I wanted to play in my wax and it took away some of the effects I wanted ... and of course ... I didn't want it to lock up scent either ...

 

I've never heard of stearic acid  locking up scent ... I've read that if you add too much vybar this can happen.  I didn't think stearic was quite as difficult to use in regard to scent, although I've never used too much of it or experimented with high levels of it either, lol. 

 

 

[Scented]

3 minutes ago, birdcharm said:

 

I've never heard of stearic acid  locking up scent ... I've read that if you add too much vybar this can happen.  I didn't think stearic was quite as difficult to use in regard to scent, although I've never used too much of it or experimented with high levels of it either, lol. 

 

 

Meant to be vybar

[birdcharm]

I thought that might be the case, but wasn't quite sure!  Thanks! 

 

[Pam W]

yeah, it's vybar that can lock up the scent..............I don't use vybar any more - just stearic.  

[Quentin]

Here is the end result of the orange candles. I manipulated the photo to make the candles white. Makes it easier to see. Still not very good quality, but I've got a new phone and the camera does whatever it wants. Your comments if you wish, then on to another topic in this forum

[Scented]

I dunno. The one on the left still has a tall wall and the one on the right went down to the end it looks like, but melted outward (or had a collapse.) It is a good picture for why candle holders are valuable. Both could demonstrate the light hugging to keep your candle molded longer. Outside of that, to you, what are your thoughts about the burn you got? You were the one true witness. I think right looks better than left but am curious why left and right didn't burn the same way to a degree. 

There is one thing I should mention is that we encourage on labels to burn till a 1/4 inch is left. I'm guessing less than a 1/4 inch is left on the right lol. I could be wrong though. 

Edited February 4, 2018 by Scented