Tony Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) I have recently tried switching from Stasis 70/30 blended was to C3. I am using 1 ounce FO per pound and having half a teaspoon of coconut oil per pound. The container I'm using is 2 1/2 inches across and using and HTP 83 wick. This wick should be big enough for that size container but I am experiencing tunneling in some candles and the rest not burning all the way to the edge. I am heating the wax to 185° adding fragrance at 165° and pouring at 150° I heat my containers to 105° Any suggestions? I am at my wits end! Edited May 12, 2017 by Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I used that wax for years and still do now and then. Why are you using coconut oil? For what reason? What jar style and how big is it in ounces? You have a picture? Is it a canning jar? How long did you let the candle cure b/4 burning? Add your oil at 175 to 180. 160 is too low. Your pour temperature seems pretty good. I don't use any additives except UV...... Trappeur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 The published wick size charts are often based on pure paraffin. Going from a 70/30 to 100% soy wax you will notice quite a bit of difference in the burning qualities. I use C3 and often those recommendations are 2-3-4+ sizes off. I completed the first two passes at wax/wick testing with C3. Take a look at my results here: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I've used C3 for many years now, I do not use coconut oil but I do add the recommended amount of USA and sometimes UV inhibitor due to flourescent lights turning it yellow. I add my fragrance at approx 175-180 and pour when it starts to get pretty cloudy and slightly slushy. I don't use dye. While HTP were the recommended wicks from my supplier, I tested and chose Cotton wicks. In that size container maybe a 44c would work with most scents. I would look at Candlewic's chart and definitely check out Tall's testing page as it's a real eye opener! You may also have good luck with CD wicks. If you are stuck on HTP, be sure to twist them so they don't burn to one side. Tunneling could also be from air pockets next to the wick so try poking relief holes and doing a repour after the candle sets up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awnl Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 I agree with all the ladies above.. no coconut oil needed. I use C3 , you can also try Premier wicks ,they work well with wax. Test..test.. and test so more , it not fun but necessary. Good luck. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) Thank you for all of the replies! Definitely some good advice! I keep trying to upload an image of the container but keeps giving me an error. It is the 8 ounce Tina glass from Genwax. The reason why I had coconut oil is it completely eliminates wet spots in my candles. I know their normal but I'm a perfectionist LOL. http://www.candlemakingsupplies.net/glass--gift-boxes--jars--lids/glass-containers---jars/cate_104/p___P0941935.html i have never used USA. what are the benefits? I let the candles cure for a minimum of 2 to 3 days before I test burn them. Edited May 12, 2017 by Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 2 minutes ago, Tony said: I let the candles cure for a minimum of 2 to 3 days before I test burn them. This might be a big part of the problem. Some soy scents take 1-2 weeks to "cure" before they throw well in soy. Plus, over time as soy candles cure the initial wick choice might end up a size off. So you wax gets harder, and more dry as time passes. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Meant to add, I never had much luck with HTP in C3. CD, CDN and CSN all seem to perform the best in my setup. I have to burn the entire candle to figure out the best overall performance. some look great at the start then get too hot by the end. Some look underwicked at the start and end up perfect by 1/2-2/3 of the way down. Your container choice looks looks like it tapers. Wicking for the top of the jar will cause overheating problems by mid point. Wick for the bottom of the jar in those tapered containers. The Hangup will usually catch up well by the middle. Someone gave me a commercially purchased candle in a similar jar. It was overwicked from the start. By he mid point I had to extinguish and trim the wick every 15 minutes to keep it from shooting and growing a huge torch of a flame. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 One more thing... on the loading of pics. Chances are you are loading a high res from a camera phone... edit the pic on the phone to crop out a tiny bit. This will reset the res to make the pic smaller. The forum has a file size limit on uploads. Often those camera phone pics are >5mb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 7 hours ago, TallTayl said: Meant to add, I never had much luck with HTP in C3. CD, CDN and CSN all seem to perform the best in my setup. I have to burn the entire candle to figure out the best overall performance. some look great at the start then get too hot by the end. Some look underwicked at the start and end up perfect by 1/2-2/3 of the way down. Your container choice looks looks like it tapers. Wicking for the top of the jar will cause overheating problems by mid point. Wick for the bottom of the jar in those tapered containers. The Hangup will usually catch up well by the middle. Someone gave me a commercially purchased candle in a similar jar. It was overwicked from the start. By he mid point I had to extinguish and trim the wick every 15 minutes to keep it from shooting and growing a huge torch of a flame. ? It must just be the picture because it is definitely not tapered it straight up and down. The HTP wicks worked with the blended wax but I guess maybe trying another WIC might be the next step.It must just be the picture because it is definitely not tapered it straight up and down. The HTP wicks worked with the blended wax but I guess maybe trying another WIC might be the next step. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 7 hours ago, TallTayl said: One more thing... on the loading of pics. Chances are you are loading a high res from a camera phone... edit the pic on the phone to crop out a tiny bit. This will reset the res to make the pic smaller. The forum has a file size limit on uploads. Often those camera phone pics are >5mb Thank you! That makes sense I took the pictures with my iPhone I will definitely try that next time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 It does look tapered in this photo but it's not it's straight up and down it must be the angle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Thanks for posting that. Take a few pictures as it burns. Narrow containers are often very difficult to work correctly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debratant Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 It is a pretty candle, very creamy looking 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 13 hours ago, TallTayl said: Thanks for posting that. Take a few pictures as it burns. Narrow containers are often very difficult to work correctly. Will do! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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