JanetsCandles

We use a combination of things, but mostly use a hand made lazy susan and sometimes use a wire cooking rack for it. If I use the lazy susan, the heat gun isn't on long enough to damage the wood, also I prop the molds up off the surface of the wood with either a rack or an old jelly jar, so the wick closure stays free.

I use two types of paraffin, one for containers (which takes one formulation and is a different wax than the rest), and one for pillars/molded candles. Those two are the main waxes. The only difference is that if I'm making mottled pillars/molded candles, I use a different formulation than I do for regular "non mottled" candles. And to an extent, with fragrance oil, the formula can be different. Mainly on how much FO I put in. Sometimes I need less FO for good throw than using another FO. But that's incidental I suppose. I use paraffin for the majority of my work, but also palm. I tried soy and don't care for it. I also use beeswax when it is requested, but it's almost always unscented and in natural color. Just depends on the shape, which I also limit on availability.

You guys might also try lacquer thinner to take it off. Removes just about everything else! Including skin if you leave it on long enough LOL!

So completely agreeing with most of what's said here. You CAN do a remelt with this, but keep your temp low to start until you get a good base of wax, and do yourself a favor and just towel off the goo so you don't hate the feel of the wax. I use paraffin primarily, mostly because we've got some weird molds and I've never had any success in molding palm or soy. They just don't pull out right. The wax you're using is similar to Hobby Lobby's. I prefer vybar in it as well, unless I'm making a mottled candle. In which case I tend to use only about 1/4 to 1/2 ounce in the raw wax, or wax with steric. Also a temp of 170 to 180 is a lot more helpful in keeping the wax bound. Make sure to stir well too. If it's not incorporating, it will look like water drops at the bottom of the pour pot. Read what Eric has said, he's got plenty of good info there that I won't bother to repeat. Also note, I don't think Hobby Lobby actually does a lot of testing on their product. Let that be a consideration on if you want to do it more. You're better off going to one of the other suppliers. Also, if nothing else, you can use it to make some firestarters. They'll catch well! LOL

1.) Most of my own retailers do not require bar codes. However, that depends on the retailer. Size of the shop will matter here too. 2.) I've never had a retailer demand that I take back my product because it didn't sell. That's their problem. If they purchase on wholesale, they pay out money to you for the product. Just like with every other product they have. I'd be very wary if that came up in contract. (Note, places like Walmart and Kmart and such may do this, I'm not sure.) 3.) I've always brought samples along with me to talk with shop owners. It's good business. They can see what you have and it helps the sale a lot more than "Oh, I'm a candle maker, but don't have any product with me." Brochures are OK, but an actual sample is worth so much more. 4.) Again, I'd be wary if someone demanded to know my exact sales history for all my products. In part because it's nosy. They may ask you in general terms though. Something like "What are your best sellers?" or something similar. But the thing with retail is this: every shop is different. They have different clientele and often will be able to sell things differently than you might find at another store. Be prepared for some questions about what you use in your product. Some places hate soy. Others love it. Same goes for the Essential Oil vs Scent Oil argument. You may also come up against a lot of misconceptions. Be prepared to answer those. Have a price sheet with you when you come in, especially if you don't have a sample of every single kind of candle you make. And it's not a bad idea to research your target retailer too. Get an idea of what they have in the store already. Do they already carry a highly successful line of product that you want to replace? Information is always helpful and may also clue you in on some business practices you may not want to deal with. Not all shops are shady or have bad customer service, but some do. You may want to sniff around and see if they have a good rep before approaching them. If they are known for shorting their wholesalers or being late on payments (you might find that info out, you may not too), you may not want to be working with them. If they are rude to customers, same story. If they treat their customers badly, they will not make good sales. Also set up a system to track your sales, who owes you for past deliveries, ect. Your book keeping is going to save your sanity...

Sounds like Hobby Lobby's wax. I don't know the exact flashpoint either, but like ksranch said, you'd be fine if you use a double boiler. Otherwise I'd suggest not letting it get above 225-250 or so. I've had some weird experiences with wax at higher temps, it's like it changes it's properties slightly.

I've been using flakes for years now. But I'm finding information from some of the color suppliers that flakes are going by the way side in favor of the liquids. So I just had to have a specific blend formulated for one of my colors. Had to purchase an entire pound of the colorant to do so, but hey. I won't run out any time soon! I hated working with blocks. Never could get a good solid color unless I used quite a bit in the wax. And it was impossible to get a consistent shade between batches. Liquids so far aren't bad for the solid colors I need for a few of my customers, and it's easy enough to match the color blend if you record how many drops per pound of which shade you've used.

If you're making it specifically for the Chemo patient, keep in mind a few things: What is soothing to one person may not be soothing for another. Have your customer ask her friend what her favorite scents are. Or at least what she absolutely can't stand, so you know what to avoid. Second thing is that people going through chemo will sometimes find that certain scents will make them feel ill again. So that's probably another question to ask, if certain smells will bother her. After all of those questions, you'll have your options set down a bit better. Now to some of the things that people will find soothing: Some like baked scents, it reminds them of home (depends on the person of course). Aromatherapy often uses Lavender and Chamomile for relaxation. Some folks use sage in small amounts. Others use vanilla. I've used jasmine for customers in the past for soothing projects too. Again, most of this is hit or miss depending on the person receiving the candle.

I can be fairly guarded on what I do. I've had a couple of people try to burn me in the past with getting information. One of them asked my process for making certain candles that I sell wholesale, then went to duplicate it (poorly) and try to sell directly to some of the stores I was supplying. Didn't make me very happy. My stuff is primarily off the beaten path anyway. I work with paraffin, but we make the majority of our own molds. For us, soy doesn't work because it's just not strong enough to work in the silicone molds. I've got nothing against it, just doesn't work for me. Here, I don't mind sharing a lot of what I do. It helps others, and I don't see anyone here poaching either. As for competition locally, there isn't much for me on the way of candle makers. The one store we have local does sand cast candles and I just don't have the patience to work with those at this point. No big deal. I dabble in soaps too, but nothing to be a major competition to anyone, so that's not an issue either. Often I share techniques with others just for that reason. *shrug*

It's black and orange Comfort Blend mixed. I used the technique that Flicker posted here on the board. The scent is a special blend I use for Halloween/Samhain. Glad you all like them!

I just made these for a show the weekend before Halloween. I'm excited

An easy way to do the white on top: pour a very very thin "buffer" layer over the red. Just enough to cover the red. It will turn a pinkish color, but when it skins off all the way (still smooshy, but not liquid, if that makes sense) and then you can pour white over the top. I have do this with some of the votives I do wholesale for a local store. It works for us. You pour the buffer layer on top of the red when it skins off enough that you can push on the top lightly, but not punch through the skin.

I think you did beautifully. The chunks may show better if you make them a bit bigger, it's something to try anyway. But at face value, it's very well done.

Yeah, I was thinking of that one myself. I need to get ahold of one of the Yankee Candle candles to see how close it is though. And with me having a cold, that's not the easiest task in the world.

I've had a couple requests for something similar to Yankee's Winter Wonderland. Anyone know if this is something someone else has duplicated yet? (If this has been asked before, I apologize, I couldn't pull it up in search.)

The craft stores sell a paint that works for glass, you bake it to set it. I've used that in the past on candle glassware and it's worked nicely.

I put some similar to these in my show this weekend. It was warmer, but I'll be darned if I didn't sell out too. Looks like this is a keeper. And had both for "looks" and for actual use being sold. I'm a happy camper.

I do mine a bit differently. I cut up chunks for various projects (including in chunk pillars and such) and package those by weight in little zip locks. Label them and they fly out the door. I've offered them like this for the past few months and can barely keep them stocked. So for me, technically not clamshell OR free standing. Some of them I make in brownie bite molds too and package that way. Same story.

Do it! They have awesome products and great customer service.

I'd heard the same thing. Although a couple years ago, I had a plastic votive cup that I was assured would work as a holder as well as a mold. It melted on me. Didn't catch fire, thank god, but I was burning an unscented votive, and a tiny wick in it. I won't use them for candles anymore.

I'd gone out there to get wax a few months ago and wasn't impressed with a lot of their FO either. That was one of them that I didn't care for.

I'm looking for a FO that is just like fresh baked bread. We've got a local bakery and it makes me drool every time I go past it. So I want to work with an oil that smells like it. Anyone have any suggestions? I know Bitter Creek has one, but I haven't tried it and want to see if anyone has reviews for it. Also, might as well ask, what are your other favorites on bakery type scents?

I wouldn't put it on a griddle flat. You could use an electric griddle with some water in the bottom though. The flat griddle without any water will get too hot for both the wax and the aluminum.

Oh I love the Douglas Fir and the top one! Are you doing it with extra chunks of color to make the swirl? Or is it dropped in while you pour? I've never gotten a pattern like that. It's gorgeous!

Actually I made the mold. I've got a homemade vacuuform molder that I use for it. They don't bleed. Not these anyway. I can make them, but just not in this kind. I just use a basic skull mold for the base and then work the rest of it in after the candle is made.