rjdaines

I use it for melts but mix it 1:1 with a paraffin pillar wax (4625).

They may all have different HTs. I use 415 and 464 and they are quite different.

I'd heat them to your normal temp. Problem now is how much of the original oil is left, makes to hard to judge how much new to add. Any candles made would be "just for fun" as it would be impossible to repeat.

If you just want to try a new wick, then yes, grab some pliers and pull the wick out. I just did that one minute ago to a jar. Insert the new wick and you are good. Just remember that the untabbed wick wick flop over and die at some point but at least you gained some info.

Sure you can reuse the wax, especially if it doesn't have a FO in it. As Chefmom mentioned, don't use the microwave unless the wick tab is removed. Double boilers work great.

Looks nice to me but it is mottled. A wax like 4625 won't mottle and makes a very nice pillar. I think I also see air bubbles near the top, so be careful about how you pour and introducing air.

link or a picture please.

I routinely heat soy wax to 185 with no ill effects.

415 is a good soy wax for hot throw (HT) but can be finicky about getting smooth tops, most pour at the slushy stage. 464 gives great tops and has a very good HT. As for wicks, thy CD.

The rate of cooling will have an effect as well so room temp, drafts, size of container, etc. We can give you suggestions but you will have to experiment with the wax and container that you are using.

I've let 415 cool in a presto pot and it look butt ugly, so the difference must be the USA. Since you did not "pour" the presto pot at the slushy stage and it looks good, then why should adding it ti containers at a non-slushy stage matter? One difference might be rate of cooling, it takes hours for a full presto pot of 415 to harden completely. The other question is why does pouring at the slushy stage work? The wax is starting to harden and then we pour it, kind of seems like a bad thing if we want smooth tops but it works. Could mixing or stirring substitute for pour slushy? Pour into the container at a warmer (non-slushy) temp and stir slightly as the wax becomes cloudy. I wonder if this would work. Maybe the bad tops of 415 are due to uneven cooling, pouring at the slushy stage or stir should fix that.

Thanks for the update.

Save the cut piece of wick, get your self some wick tabs and a crimper (Hobby Lobby) and turn that cut piece into a new, usable wick. Saves money in the long run.

Yes, PB stands for pillar blend, were those posts for making melts?

The wick depends somewhat on the FO, light ones can work well with HTP-73, very heavy ones may require HTP-104, and something in between can work well with HTP-83.

I use the 8 and the 12 status jars, what is the diameter of the 21 oz? For mine I use HTP wicks.

I have not added vybar to my candles but doubt that adding a little would change it's burn qualities much.

4630 being paraffin will smoke if the flame gets too large or unstable. In container candles at about half way down, the draft of air entering the container can make the flame "dance", this will cause soot to be emitted. Soy does this too but the soot is white. I would not change the FO amount and it seems that you have your wick dialed in. My solutions was to add some soy wax to the 4630 to slow the burn and reduce flame height. I also use HTP wicks. After a 4 hour burn, my wicks should need to be trimmed.

I use the 1 hour per inch rule. I would say that candle have "memory" but they (both soy and paraffin will tunnel if they are not allowed to burn long enough to develop a full melt pool. Regarding the pre-heating, it may help for a while but fluctuating temps can cause wet spots to show up. I don't bother any more, most buyers don't see them or complain.

I would think that one only needs to use as much heat a necessary to allow the FO and wax to mix. Heavier FO formulas my require more heat and mixing. Don't think that there is any magic on using more heat, you are just losing FO into the air.

I try to get them to curl towards the edges. There will be plenty of heat in the center and it's the edges that need a little more.

Apron or an old shirt for me.

Wet spots can appear at any time due to temperature changes, so you may solve the problem temporarily with heating the glass but they may come back as the seasons change or the AC turns on.

Wipe with paper towel only. Don't worry about residual FO, it's gone by the time the next batch of wax is heated up.

Most apothecary jars have curved sides.