rjdaines

Candle Science has a melt tutorial in which they use 6006 wax, which (I believe) is a parasoy of 70/30, so your 3 wax blend would be about the same ratio. Just to make my above list more complete, 6006 has a melt point of 133. Wonder what the melt point of your blend would be?

I probably could have done that but would have had to have gone to a HTP-83 or higher and, frankly, having that big a wick in a 2.5 inch container would have looked silly. I use the HTP-83/93 in the 3" Status jars. I'm sure there are multiple solutions but was just amazed at this phenomenon if container height which was the only variable and on the bright side, forced me to try the RRDs which seem to work very well.

I just about the start making melts and have decided on starting with a 50/50 mix of 4625 and 415. Why? Well, it seems like a good place to start. I have 464 but that has a lot of additives and a lower melt point than 415. Depending on the temp of the melters, this may or may not be a good thing. I also have 444 as well as 415 and 464 and see no reason why any of them wouldn't work but for now I'll start with the 415. Using 4627 or 4630, I think, will produce a too soft of a melt and may be difficult to get cleanly out of the mold. Melt points 4630, 4627 = 125 4625 = 145 415 = 120-125 444 = 120-125 464 = 115-120

This was with my parasoy mix (4630/464), same batch of wax and FO went into all the containers. The performance of the RRD wicks is a pleasant surprise. I stayed away from them because they are not a true self-trimming wick. I'm just amazed how doubling the height of the container forced me to pick a different wick.

Here's a strange situation, I make candles in several type of containers, some of which are the same diameter. You'd think that containers of the same diameter would take the same wick and wick size. Well, no. I make an Elemental Jar which is about 2.5 inches and it takes a HTP-62 wick. I use a Libbey Status Jar (8 oz) which is the same diameter but taller. The HTP-62 drowns in the Status jar, to which I said "you've got to be kidding..?" Wicking in the HTP series didn't work as the flame was way to large when it did start working. This meant finding another wick type. For now the answer seems to be an RRD wick (RRD-34). Gotta love sample packs.

Over wicking is the quickest way to get soot with any wax.

I don't leave it on unattended, Melt time is about 30 minutes which, to me , is fast.

You can make you own tabbed wicks, just buy the tabs and a crimper (Hobby Lobby). I do this with left over wicks after trimming, so I get two for the price of one, so to speak.

How about cotton core wicks? I have not use these myself yet but they would be missing from that group of wicks mentioned above.

The jar says that it is a vegetable wax, exactly what that is I do not know. The Slatkin candles that I have tried had a tendency for the wicks to drown or become very weak.

Wow, Christmas Hearth and Mistletoe (CS), are my best. Hope you luck changes soon.

Wick pins are what I use, not sure if they are compatible with the molds you are using.

Old FO? I can't imagine dye or wicks being the problem. Guess IGI is calling J-223 IGI 4633 now so they may have tweaked the formula, maybe not. i haven't used that one so i can't comment on it.

I don't think so but just the same I let it sit for a week.

I purchased their BBW Type Leaves which is now in wax and waiting to be tested. I don't think it will be a strong one.

I've tried adding coconut oil as well as coconut wax to 464 and neither helped with the frosting. I also have a bag of olive oil wax that I have not had the time to work with. However, I did hear from someone that the coconut and olive oil wax may have some paraffin in them. I pour 464 at 165, I suppose I could pour a little hotter, say 175 but it would be hard to pour at any greater temp. Never has a problem with the way the 464 tops looked, just that darn frosting which can happen at any time.

Maybe try a wick size down, by the mid point and end of the jar it might be too hot. As far as HT, with a melt pool as large as the 4 hour pic you should have a pretty good smell going. Waiting larger, in my experience, won't make a difference.

Reminds me of some experiments I've never gotten around to, how much 4630 to add to 464 to stop frosting. One day.

3.5 oz is not a lot of wax and will cool faster that a larger amount. With soy wax, some people have luck pouring at a slushy stage, I have not tried this with 4630 but it might be worth a test.

I use HTP, CD, and ECO wicks with the 4630/464 blend depended on the container.

FO has more to do with frosting than wet spots which 464 loves to do. Wet spots are caused by the wax pulling away from the glass and the only thing that helps with that is preheating the glass. This is still no positive solution as temperature changes with induces wet pots. On the other hand, I've never had a complaint about wet spots so I don't worry about them. As for 464 tops, I rarely have a bad one and I pour at 165.

I use that mix all the time, HTP wicks work the best for me. Some people use zincs with a lot of success but I prefer the HTPs.

Been there and done that.

I am using an apothecary that looks like the first jar, it holds about 14 oz of wax and I double wick it.

Weeping means that you exceeded the capacity of that wax to hold that FO. While 7% is not a lot, it may be too much for that particular FO and wax combination.