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rjdaines last won the day on January 12 2015

rjdaines had the most liked content!

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About rjdaines

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    The hot part of Arizona
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    An Arizona-based candle maker who is try to start a business selling his creations. I make container candles of parasoy and pillars with paraffin. I currently use four different containers.
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  1. All FOs need testing as to how how % you need to add and (as you said) room size will be a factor as well as the type of warmer but 8% will fill a large room and more. To know how much the wax will hold, testing is the only way to know for sure.
  2. 4625 FO load is listed as 6%, I make my melts and candles at between 7% and 8%. For me it's a happy place in terms of the CT, HT, and the wick. Adding more gives me bigger mushrooms and would force me to find a larger or hotter wick. So, my blend can easily support that load. Melts, of course, don't need a wick so going higher may be possible but the soy wax that I use supports 6% to 9% so I'd have to make even more changes to go higher.
  3. I might as well join in too, I use 4624 and soy container wax 50/50. Great HT and spent wax comes out of the bowls with just a little coercion. The cubes release from the clam-shell very easily.
  4. If those are 4 inch diameters, you could try 2 CD5 wicks.
  5. Don't go for a FMP on the first burn, by the end of the candle you will have a hot and sooty mess. As for wicks I use a variety as dictated by the container size and the FO. These wicks are HTP, ECO, and CD. Many people use zinc with great success but I have not tried them.
  6. I use 4630 and rub into slightly sunken tops only with larger diameter containers. While it's supposed to be a single pour wax, it does shrink a little. Why yours are behaving as they are I can't explain. I heat to 185, add cold FO, heat to 180, stir, and pour at 175 into cold containers. The containers are nestled on a cork mat and left to cool. I am not a believer in curing but do wait a week to test burn. Not all FOs will work in all waxes. To test if it is the wax or your system, make some melts and test those. If you get good HT, then your system is not optimized and, most likely, you need to find a different wick. I find that a weaker burn works better than a more vigorous one.
  7. I've never seen a candle in a store that says, "Don't burn until (some date)." So in a practical sense curing is only an issue for the makers of the candle, eager testers. I am making candles for a November craft show and some will 2 months old by that time, others 3 or 4 weeks. And then, when will the new owners of the candle burn them, unknown, could be days, weeks, or months. So I don't worry about curing. If it works for me after a week, I'm happy. I'd never sell an candle that required a month to have a decent HT.
  8. I don't use C3. Currently my candles are parasoy (my blend) but I and itching to start working on a new blend. Parasoy gives me a wider range of FOs that "work", once I have a bunch that I like I may revisit them in soy (464).
  9. I have never had a candle improve its HT by curing for more than a week. I am not a big believer in curing and have never had a candle, paraffin or soy, improve to any extent. If you are unhappy with the HT after a week, then it's time to look for another FO or try changes in your system.
  10. Two suppliers my sell the same FO but their formulations may be different, i.e. one may be stronger than another. For testing purposes I would start with both at 1 oz/lbs.
  11. Feel free to use any of it. Yes, the topic is complex and there seems to be no easy answers. Being "green" is more complex than people realize.
  12. I can add some info to this since I am a molecular biologist and have done extensive research into GMOs (making them). The above PCR analysis is valid to a limited extent and is frequently used in schools to teach PCR but you need soy flour. PCR is a technique that amplifies small quantities of DNA into larger amounts which can then be studied. The first problem here is that the 35S promoter is not the only one in use; second is that the DNA is required to do the test and the fact that soy oil is purified and then chemically processed to become soy wax, the likelihood of DNA being present is slim. Third, what people are concerned about is not the DNA but the proteins that are made from the DNA, this is what people are potentially allergic too. None of those will be present in soy wax because the what I stated above, soy wax is a refined and processed material. In other words, none of the markers that we can use to tell us if the soy wax is GMO or not are not present in soy wax. A negative result does not eliminate the possibility that the wax came from GMO soy. If a wax producer uses 100% USDA certified Organic Soy, then they may be able to claim non-GMO, that is provided the crop is not contaminated with GMO soy from a neighboring farm or other slip ups in the supply chain such as in grain storage.
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