rjdaines

Was is slushy at 105? If not, pour a little cooler and follow what was mentioned above.

Looks pretty normal to me. 4794 is a great votive wax, so stick with it. It is designed to shrink (so you can get it out of the holder) and you are seeing different amounts of shrinkage based on uneven cooling. Can't do much about it with a seconded pour so the heat gun is your best bet for flat tops. And, yes, be careful or you will blow wax off the top. If the votives are for me, I leave them as shown in your photo.

Yes, you need to test all FOs and retest if you make major changes in your wax formula.

I don't like large flames on votives but they still need a descent melt pool to smell anything. I use 4794 with LX-8 or LX-10 depending on the FO.

I use LX-8 for a small flame a day a LX-10 for a moderate flame. I prefer the LX-8.

That's a fairly small candle, kind of like a votive, how deep and wide of a melt pool are you getting? If that were straight paraffin, I'd be using a LX-8 or LX-10, maybe your consumption is too high with the wick you are using. With parasoy I have tried a CD-5 in a 2 inch container and it works well. Could you be over wicked?

What is the diameter of those jars? LX 16 is a pretty big wick as is ECO 4. You might as well throw HTP wicks into that collection but I am surprised that the CD wicks didn't do it for you. Also, some of those bakery scents are wick killers, I still can't get cinnamon buns to burn properly.

If you are using 464, I suggest that you buy a few sample packs of CD wicks. Those are the wicks I use with that wax. As far as fragrance oils, I am happy with the ones from Peaks and Candle Science.

Not all FOs work in all waxes and fewer work in soy. Read comments on an FO and see if people claim it works in soy, then notice if they are using the same soy as you. In the end, you have to find out for yourself; this is why there are 1 oz samples. Only testing let's you know for sure.

Agree 100%, have yet to be disappointed by Peak's and stuff does happen.

Not all FOs are going to work with all waxes. Since you know that your blend works well with other FOs and your procedure sounds fine, then I would vote for it's the FOs fault. I've never found that curing makes a big difference in the final throw of a candle or tart, so don't expect miracles from that.

I don't use Xcel so I can't answer those questions. Soy wax frosts which is why a lot of people blend soy with paraffin. For example, I use 4625 and 415.

Wet spots are the result of several things; the fact that glass and wax expand and contract in very different amounts and that there are temperature fluctuations. Heating the glass before pouting (a pin I think) is the best method for avoiding wet spots. In theory, heating the glass causes it to expand, you pour in the wax into the expanded jar, and then cool. AS the wax cools it will shrink but the glass is also shrinking, so not wet spots. Well, nice theory but it ultimately depends on how much your wax will shrink and the cooler the temps, the more it will shrink. Air conditioning can be a cause, drafts while cooling. Transporting candles during the winder or a outside display, will all cause more wet spots. A lot of us don't worry about them any more, most customers don't seem to care.

The PB will allow it to come out of the mold.

I use a blend of 75% 4625 and 25% 464, different percentages around those numbers would most likely work as well. I have also tried 415 and 444 and they work as well as 464. HT is great, not will all FOs but that is true of any wax. Smoking means that it is not wicked properly but you will see that in any wax, yes, soy will smoke. I don't know anything about Acusoy but a lot of people here use a type of parasoy and there must be a reason for that.

Start at 50/50 and increase or decrease the PB until you get the texture (and mold release) that you want. I use 8% FO load.

Get sample packs of as many wick as you can. Include HTP in the mix. Asking folks won't give you the solution because only you make candles the way you do. Make some wickless candles, skewer a hole in the middle and start testing.

The 12 oz status jar can be wicked, with my parasoy blend I am using HTP-73 or 93 depending on the FO. When I was using 464 exclusively I wicked with CD -12 (maybe 14, but it was a CD wick). Like most soy waxes, you have to pick and choose your FOs.

I blend my own but some of those base waxes are already blends.

I am now using a parasoy, so the wick and sizes applies to that. For 464 I used CD wicks and I believe CD14 was the size.

I'm in Florence.

Two suppliers my sell the same FO but their formulations may be different, i.e. one may be stronger than another. For testing purposes I would start with both at 1 oz/lbs.

In theory yes. Containers of the same diameter should take the same wick. However, the larger jar is a bigger heat sink so the early to mid part of the burn "might" be different from the smaller jar (smaller melt pool). Only way to know is to test and the worst that happens is that you need a move one size up. Odds are you'll be fine.

I have found that double wicked containers that curve inward at the top are prone to wick drownings and being too hot. Solving for one leads to the other. HT is generally good with the hotter solution but melt pool depth can also be an issue (too deep). I've even tried manipulating the melt point of the wax but that doesn't help much. Just keep trying different wicks until you are happy with the burn.

Not only may you have to go two wick sizes up with some FOs but you may have to cut back as well. Some of my favorite FOs torture me this way.