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HorseScentS

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Everything posted by HorseScentS

  1. No, I don't want you to do my homework for me. I already bought 6006 locally, & I was trying to find out if the 4627 HT was better enough than 6006 to be worth the extra money to order it from out of state, because I'm on a very low fixed income (disability) & cannot afford to waste money on shipping unless there's a significant difference in HT. Now that I've found more info on other forums about 4627 HT vs. 6006 HT, I will definitely be ordering 4627 from out of state, UNLESS I'm thrilled with the HT from the 6006 candles that I make next week. I've already decided not to use 100% veggie wax, but if I had jumped in & started testing both soy & palm when I first started this thread, it would have been a very expensive mistake.
  2. Yeah! I would never have guessed that it's supposed to be peanut butter! lol
  3. Here's a thread for AJ&P: http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96631
  4. Stella1952 posted this awesome chart on another thread: http://www.ngiwax.com/resources/fragranceprogram.html
  5. Decent candle: No frosting, smooth tops, no cracks or sink holes, no air bubbles, burns evenly, no hangup by the time the candle burns down to the end, container does not get hot, no soot, candle self-extinguishes before burning the last 1/2" of wax, properly wicked so no wick problems like mushrooming, etc, minimal wet spots, excellent hot throw & cold throw, wick attached to jar with red permatex silicone so it won't come loose, candle-safe container, pretty color...
  6. How would mixing 4627 with 464 or 415 improve it? Why would it need that?
  7. Thanks! I think IGI 4627 is said to have the strongest hot & cold throw of all. If I'm not satisfied with 6006, I'm going to try it. http://igiwax.com/industries-applications/candle-blends/
  8. Wow! I'd love it if you would because I paid almost $10 for 35 labels, plus $3 for shipping.
  9. After reading here about all the problems with soy I decided to start with IGI 6006 parasoy blend, which I can buy from a local chandler. I'll start pouring next week when my FOs from CS arrive, but it's supposed to be easy to work with.
  10. Some people really like this wick guide: http://www.candlescience.com/learning/wick-guide.php
  11. Yes, testing is necessary, I didn't mean not to test at all. But the amount of testing seems to depend on the type of wax they choose. I feel sad for the newbies who say they spent $2,000 to $5,000 just trying to get a decent candle out of soy, especially if they're unemployed/disabled & really need a way to earn a little extra money. The only ones who seem to get good results from soy without spending thousands are starting with CB Advanced, because then they can test for wick size & FO load, & not spend months trying to get a decent candle.
  12. Thanks! Maybe I can get them cheaper on eBay next time. I hope the 1.75" will fit.
  13. I just ordered CS Lilac for my mom's birthday candles, doesn't anyone like that one?
  14. Hi, I'm a newby too. From what I've read you picked a great wax! I think it needs to cure for a week or two before you get a good hot throw; seems like I read 10 days is good. What wicks did you try?
  15. I hope 6006 can get a good hot throw because I'm going to start using it next week when my CS & TC FOs arrive. & I can't afford to experiment with mixing waxes. Yesterday, I was reading all the old posts about 6006, & it seems like the ones who thought it had a fantastic hot throw were only using 6% FO (1 oz per lb. of wax) or occasionally going up to 1.25 oz per lb. & they were using the 51 zinc wick in 8 oz jj, or occasionally the 44. Also, they were the only ones not having a problem with soot. & they were pouring hot, like 180. I was told to pour at 150, & the mfg recommends 160, & I think it's LS that recommends pouring at 180-200. Very confusing.
  16. Oh, neat! They have two more styles: http://www.labelsbythesheet.com/items/pre-designed-labels/candle-warning-labels-customized-/round-customized-candle-warning-labelbrdesign-style-3brusually-ships-within-24-hrs-wrnlbl3-detail.htm http://www.labelsbythesheet.com/items/pre-designed-labels/candle-warning-labels-customized-/round-customized-candle-warning-labelbrdesign-style-1brusually-ships-within-24-hrs-wrnlbl1-detail.htm
  17. I Googled & there wasn't much in 1.67" size except some eBay ones that say to only burn your candle for 2 hrs at a time, but I like the labels that say 3 or 4 hours. Finally I found 1.75" ones here: http://www.labelsbythesheet.com/items/pre-designed-labels/candle-warning-labels-customized-/round-customized-candle-warning-labelbrdesign-style-2brusually-ships-within-24-hrs-wrnlbl2-detail.htm
  18. Thanks! I can't afford to waste money on the wrong labels after buying dyes & FOs yesterday. But I can only find 2" labels & 1.25" labels on Peaks, Lone Star, & Cajun; so who has the perfect 1.67" size?
  19. Oh, okay, 30-45 minutes, Thanks! I didn't see that before I posted.
  20. How long do you have to wait after pouring before the crust is hard enough that you can flip?
  21. The bottom of the 8 oz jj is just barely 2", so will the 2" warning labels fit or are they a tad too big?
  22. Thanks. So, do all chandlers avoid selling the same scents & containers that their wholesale accounts sell? That seems limiting, I'd want to be able to sell any scent to anyone anywhere. I don't see how that works.
  23. What kind & size candle are you selling for $8 that she's charging $10.99 for? How would her customers find out about your website with her private label on the candle?
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