HorseScentS

I was searching the archives & kept finding posts about the wonderful HT of 4627, but they're from 2006/2007. I was planning to start with 6006 & I bought 10 lbs of it, but now I'm wondering if 4627 has a much better HT than 6006 or not, & if so, how much stronger? Like on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being the best HT. I think people in my area care more about HT than Green natural wax. I'm in OK. What are the pros & cons of those two waxes? I don't care if 4627 is messy. Confused, indecisive, & kind of freaking out... Thanks a bunch!

I don't know if this will help you, but I recently read on a candle website that this problem can be due to pouring into jars that are too hot.

Stella: Thank you for this tip! The silicone sounds great for safety! & I love those self-centering drop-and-pour wick assemblies that you linked to, so I called the Wicks Unlimited guy, Bruce, (who works in the lab & says we can call him anytime with tech questions), & he said that BCN carries the votive ones, but you can only get the jar-size ones from Wicks Unlimited with a minimum order of 5,000. Here they are again: "Self Centering Wick Clips for Jars "Wicks Unlimited's innovative new line of self centering wick-clip assemblies will now allow you to drop and pour, saving time and money, fingers and glue...with more ideas forthcoming.. "Wicks Unlimited's self centering clips for jars are available in 6.0mm length, in two hole sizes and three base diameters." http://www.wicksunlimited.com/self_centering_jar_clips.php

I just bought one from WalMart for $29.00. It's Presto Pot Kitchen Kettle, & it's got a temperature control dial with degrees on it. Here's more, plus how to install a spigot for easy pouring, if you want: http://www.candlecauldron.com/prestopot.html

I'm interested in the olive oil wax. I didn't know there was such a thing. In the Bible, the ancient Hebrews used pottery lamps with olive oil instead of candles.

Here it is: "All of our wicks are made with a taller 10mm neck wicktab (unless otherwise noted). The taller neck helps ensure more safety because it prevents the bottom 3/8" of the candle from burning (since there's no wicking left). This is a critical safety precaution. We are the only supplier, that we know of, that uses the taller, more expensive tabs as the standard wicktab on all wick clip assemblies. We simply want to provide our customers with a higher level of safety." http://www.lonestarcandlesupply.com/candle-making/candle-wicks/

I think the only wick assembly that Lone Star Candle Supply sells are the safety length taller ones, like 10 mm?, that cause the flame to extinguish with 1/2" wax at the bottom. Right?

Doesn't it take a tremendous amount of gas, oil, electricity, & pesticide to plow, plant, cultivate, harvest, transport & process soy into wax? & then ship it to suppliers? Just wondering how really Green it is to use soy wax.

I think most candle customers want a really good scented candle that's strong & even burning with a long fragrance hang time, & it doesn't have to be soy; so parasoy is a good wax to start with.

That's what I'd like to know too, cuz the chandler I bought my 6006 wax from said to usually heat to 200, then remove from heat, add dye, mix, add FO, mix, then pour at 150. But she said I could also heat to 215. AAAAAARRRRGGGHHH!!

theyodelingpickle: I'm where you are now, & after weeks of research, I believe it's much easier & cheaper for newbies to start with an awesome parasoy blend like IGI 6006, & just do lots of 8 oz jelly jars to start. Soy is very, very temperamental & people spend THOUSANDS learning to work with it, which they can NEVER recoup with just a small home-based business. It makes no sense in terms of return on investment. It's great if you want a very expensive hobby. Candlescience has very helpful wick & fragrance guides.

Thanks soy357. It's very confusing hearing so much conflicting info. But I definitely believe in putting safety first.

Soy327: More thoughts: It's not a hi jack because adding the FO at 250 might have worked for Jonsie, but you guys say it's not safe & I'll take your word for it, even though this chandler makes great candles. But, if you heat the wax to 250 in a temp controlled Presto Pot by setting the dial to 250, how can the temp get above 250? & if we use a Presto Pot to deep fry chicken, don't we have the hot grease up around 350? So why would it be any more dangerous than that to heat 6006 wax to 250? Just askin'...

Safety first! It's not worth the risk of getting burned

Safety first! It's not worth the risk of getting burned!

Yikes! I'm so glad I checked here first. Whew!

Thanks, Candybee! I love the beautiful look of GG. I'm so happy to hear it has a good HT when it's done correctly. I decided to go with IGI 6006 because it's local & seems much easier for a beginner to work with. But I would still love to order GG when I can afford it. From what I've read, soy does seem to require a lot of expensive testing, even going into thousands of dollars, which doesn't make sense for a beginner like me who can't afford to do that.

She only mentioned that the flash point of 6006 was 400 because I asked if there was a danger of the 6006 bursting into flames when she adds FOs at 250, those few FOs that she said needed to be added at 250 in order to throw a scent. She adds the rest at 200. Her candles are really awesome, so this must work for her...

Thanks, Stella! That's all very interesting info.

Thank you! Has anybody compared the HT of Glass Glow palm to parasoy IGI 6006?

Oops, maybe she heats the jars to 125. I just read that the mfg suggests heating jars from 125 to 140 for best results.

Thanks for mentioning the wicks; those are the same ones I was sold yesterday for using in 8 oz jj with 6006. I'm encouraged to hear they work well for you!

I just bought 10 lbs of 6006 yesterday from a chandler who has a beautiful candle shop, & it's the only wax she uses, so even though I haven't used it yet, I can share a couple of tips she gave me. I'm getting ready to try this soon too, & I'm very interested in learning more about this wax. She heats to 200 & adds color & then her FOs, but a few FOs will not work at all unless she adds them at 250. She pours at 150. She said she adds 1.5 to 2 ounces of FO per lb, or 1 cup of FO to just over 4 lbs of wax, but occasionally gets a couple of candles that seep FO. She preheats her jars in the oven at 225 for 10 minutes. After the candles are poured & set, they do have faint dips in the top, so she puts them under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes, watching very carefully to make sure they don't overheat & liquify, & that's how she gets perfect tops. Her tops are perfectly flat. I didn't see any wet spots, all hers are perfect.

I just bought 10 lbs of 6006 yesterday from a chandler who has a beautiful candle shop, & it's the only wax she uses, so even though I haven't used it yet, I can share a couple of tips she gave me. She heats to 200 & adds her FOs, but a few FOs will not work at all unless she adds them at 250. She preheats her jars at 225. After the candles are poured & set, they do have faint dips in the top, so she puts them under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes, watching very carefully to make sure they don't overheat & liquify, & that's how she gets perfect tops. I didn't see any wet spots, all hers are perfect.

I mean, if everything is done correctly...