TallTayl

Is that soy wax?

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Have you looked at WickIt? http://www.wickit.net

Since you know the error, you can probably save it

Your math is a little off. 8 weighed ounces of wax (will be more by volume since the specific gravity of wax is lower than water. Meaning, if you measure water and wax to the same weight, water takes less space than wax). X 3 candles = 24 weighed ounces. ** 24 weighed ounces / 16 oz per lb = 1.5 lbs of wax. (Could be a typo above, or maybe you are converting 24 oz to 2.4 lbs by dividing by 10 instead of 16 ounces to a lb?) 24 oz x 10% = 2.4 oz FO. Total weight= 26.4 oz ** Volume of containers is generally measured in fluid ounces of water, which has a specific gravity of 1. Soy wax, by comparison can have a specific gravity aceraging around .88, meaning an average soy wax takes up 12% or so more space for the same weight. Every wax is different. For my 8 oz tins i generally need only about 6 oz of wax depending on how high i decide to pour. Depending on your container, this totally accounts for the extra.

I bet the temps are in C not F.

It sure is confusing, especially when so many vendors tweak the tech info to suit their needs. Notice how GB 464 has different fo holding capacity depending on which vendor is selling it ? Makes sense to me when places like CS say it can hold up to 2 oz per lb when their business is all about selling fragrance! I searched the GB company site and saw nothing to support that claim. Other sites use tricky language like "may hold up to 7-9%". May. Lol. The only thing constant is that no vendor is the same with their details. Makes you go hmmmmm doesn't it? Since we don't know what is used in the fragrance oils I have to wonder how each will change my burn properties. More FO may lower the melt temp of the whole blend by a lot. Or not.

what nobody can answer definitively anywhere is what the labels mean when a manufacturer has a product That can hold X percent of fragrance. X percent of what? Without a clear answer nobody is wrong. I trust something on a forum about as far as I can read it. You will have as many opinions that say one way of calculating is correct as there are others. It's 50-50. So long as the end product is safe I really don't give a flying Fig.

again. There are two ways to look at it. An amount as a portion of the whole. Or an amount In proportion to other ingredients. Take soap for instance. Fragrance is usually measured as a percentage of oils. 1 pound of oils equals one ounce of fragrance. Not one pound of oils -1 ounce + 1 ounce of fragrance. nobody is calling anybody wrong. No emotions needed. It is about consistency in formulating.

In candybee's example, 1oz in 15 oz of wax, i get 6.66% fo.

This is the age old debate bout how to calculate. Which is why i chose the second method in my production. I interpret the manufacturer to mean their wax can hold X% of fragrance based on the amount of WAX you use without any fancy calculations to remove wax to account for FO addition. There's way too much complexity to do that. The complexity is more confusing when blending waxes of different FO holding capacities. The standard guideline of 1oz of FO per lb of typical wax comes to approximately 6% 1 / 16 = 6.25%. The calculation is direct and simple no matter how much wax you choose to melt. Need 2lbs of wax? Use 2oz of FO. Need 18 oz of wax, use 18 x 6% or 1.08 oz of FO. Need 111oz of wax? Use 6.66 oz of FO. My spreadsheets are designed to calculate the FO as a proportion of the wax, not the whole blend, just like the above examples. Using your numbers I would calculate 1.5 oz of FO in 16 oz of wax to equal 9.375%. 1.5 / 16 = 9.375% Those who calculate based on the whole blend come up with a number that represents the FO as a PROPORTION of the WHOLE blend, which is misleading IMO.

The more you learn about the process, the more you will learn there is to know Test. Test. Test. Then test again.

Climate control in shop, fans, etc. (like i wrote above i pour when i am done stirring.) ETA since i saw you asked another question as i was replying. I test after a couple days. If it does not throw after a couple of days, or burns oddly i don't use it in the retail line up. There are way too many fragrances to be bothered with those that are finicky. I generally test 25 or so new scents at a time in both candles and soap. Only a couple usually make it beyond the initial test burns. It has to be something i really want to fiddle with it any more.

C3 180 approx 180 180 (or whatever temp it is when done stirring) I cool fast, and don't wait to pour. My process is different from most people.

Good quality fragrance will not evaporate out as you stir. Think about big manufacturers. They mix up hundreds of lbs of wax with the FO in vats and dispense from there as the wax is stirred inside the giant vat. Generally i heat wax in a presto or water jacket melter, then dispense what i need into an aluminum pour pot with the FO, color and stir. Pouring at lower temps can help with smoothness and such. Every wax is different, so go by what the manufacturer (not reseller) recommends first. Too much FO can: seep out of wax (fire hazard), clog wicks, cause incomplete combustion (soot), etc. More FO does NOT automatically mean more throw.

That is the great debate among chandlers... You'll find similar debates in threads going waaaay back right here The manufacturers don't specify which either. In many manufacturer references i've read to use one ounce of FO per lb of wax. It's super easy with no special rounding or removing the extra ounces of wax to account for the fo. 1oz FO + 16 oz wax= 17 total ounces. 1 / 17= 5.88%. Which is the ratio of fragrance to the total blend. The other way people do the same math is 1 / 16 = 6.25% which is the ratio of FO to the amount of wax. My guess (only a guess) is the second is the math the manufacturers are using. It is much simpler and easier to explain to users of their products. A 1lb bottle of FO is added to 16 lbs of wax. A one ounce sample bottle of FO is added to 16 ounces of wax. All weighed of course with no volumetric measurements. 1.5 oz fo in 16 oz of wax is about 9.35%. Still pretty high.... Especially if you are looking to eventually sell candles and squeak out any real profit.

I don't ise that wax, but do know how finicky soy is to work with. What scents, wicks, containers (size and material), etc. have you used? How long are you curing them? When testing a wick and container with my soy, i use one or two known great throwers in my system and go from there.

Looks good so far . You will see some changes about half way down the candle. I don't worry about FMP at the top of those odd shape containers. The bottom is what counts.

Ah, yes, the FO. Was it different from the others? That is a huge variable.

I have never noticed that :/ The wax coating will help the wick stand straighter in the melt pool, but i have not noticed it making any difference after a heat gun. Sme i use are even unprimed. The length of the wick makes a difference though. A candle with a wick trimmed to 1/8" will burn different from a candle with the wick trimmed to 1/2", 3/4", etc. Are the wicks on your personal candles of different lengths when you light them?

Lavender and chamomile is a great baby scent. Kind of like Johnson and Johnson washes. I think baby magic is lavender chamomile and rose. Baby powder scents make me feel icky...

By bubbles, do you mean cavities under the hardened surface of the wax?

Wide vessels are hard to wick, esp when they taper toward the bottom. When i wick a 4" wide 3" deep cast iron with a very minor taper i use two CD6. Two CD12 would be way too hot, even at the beginning. Plus, it would burn really fast. i wick my stoneware similarly since ceramics hold heat very well and don't seem to need as much wick as glass or tin. The general guideline i follow is to wick for the last 1/3 of the candle. Not the top 2/3. Vintage tea cups can be made of different materials, so thermal properties, including thermal stresses that you can't see right away can become an issue later. I work with ceramic material (stoneware mostly), and have seen how imperfections from the start of the casting process can become more visible over time.

I use tins. The stickums and 3m squared always popped loose from the wick tab and/or the tin bottom, especially when removing slack from the wick. Used high temp silicone for a while, but when making hundreds at a time i just ran out of space waiting for the silicone to dry and cure. Switched to high temp hot glue and can move a lot of tight wicked candles quickly. Both the silicone and high temp glue stick tight through the bottom of the burn and requre a good pair of pliers ot remove.

I don't have any of that one