WaxFlower

Hi everyone! I'm looking into trying HTP's in my 6oz tins using 415 pure soy (no dye, @ 6-7% fo). Would I be looking at starting at around a 73? I will be placing an order with CandleSoylutions because they are the only place I have found that carry natural coated HTP's. TIA for any suggestions and opinions. Edited to say: I will be using candlescience oils if that makes a difference. Also, I wanted to share with you all that the 6oz tins that I am using are "footed", I found them at http://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/fin7i.html

She had her nerve if she was trying to scam you again with another bad check. Did she think you wouldn't remember her? Sheesh! You never know about some people these days. You handled that very well, way to stick to your guns. keep on Rockin!

Hi Suzy, First let me say that what I'm about to post are just my experiences and JMO...Others can chime in with their experiences and opinions as well to help you with your concerns. Testers should feel honored to have the opportunity to try out and test free smellies...I know I would. I've done very extensive testing with tart melting temps and scent throw. There are some variables to consider.....I'll try not to ramble on too much..... What type of tart melters are your testers using? If using electric melters, what is the wattage of those melters? Electric melters are anywhere from 8 to 25 watts, this temp range makes a huge difference with scent throw/scent life. In my tests, the higher the wattage, the hotter the wax will get and the better the scent throw will be but the scent life will be shorter because hotter temps equal great scent throw with a shorter scent life. With tealight warmers if your tealight flame is sitting too close to the bottom of your bowl where your tart sits this will cause your wax to get too hot and cause the scent to burn off more quickly. For example, I lit one of my pure soy tealights wicked with an LX8 and placed it in a tealight burner that has a 2 1/2" clearance between the flame and the tart bowl and that wax temp reached 230F and rising! Scent throw was awesome but that's way too hot and exceeds a safe melting temp in my book. I also have a tealight burner that has a 4" clearance between the flame and the tart bowl and that wax temp barely reached 170, this was perfect for me, lower wax temp, good scent throw and a longer scent life. It's possible that your testers might be using wax melters that get too hot if they are complaining that scent life is short. On the other hand, if your tarts are scenting for a day your doing something right. Little 1oz tarts rarely last longer than that with most scents anyway, even Yank** in my experience. As far as adding something to your wax formula for scent staying power, unforunately, I don't know what that would be...Maybe someone with more experience with that will chime in with some ideas and suggestions.

Well said Tereasa. Candle making is pretty pricey. No matter how you go about it, candle making adds up to a small fortune spent. On the other hand, it's very rewarding when a candle test turns out the way you want it to.

:yay:Grubby tarts, that is a GREAT idea Candybee! How could something like that be done? Do they make grubby tart molds? GB416 is what I use for my tarts and the longer they sit and cure, the dryer and uglier they get, (not pretty at all). If they are grubbyish, then it won't matter if they are dry and odd looking. Thanks for the idea!

Try not to get too distracted by price. Yes, the CSN kit is less expensive but, the CSN kit contains 35 wicks (5 of each of the 6 sizes), the LX kit contains 50 wicks (5 of each of the 10 sizes). Having a choice of more sizes in a particular wick series can be beneficial when testing to better fine tune your desired burn. JMO.

I have not used the CSN wicks. This is a wick designed and made specially for CS. The "N" in CSN means that the wick is primed with a natural coating, a benefit if your your wanting to stay all natural. They have great customer service, if you call them they would most likely tell you more about that particular wick. I have used LX wicks and like them so far. If you don't mind double wicking and if you decide to go with the LX wicks in a 4" diam jar you could start with 2 LX14's. If you don't want to double wick maybe start with an LX26. This place has lots of information on the different wick types and may help you decide where to start. www.wicksunlimited.com Have fun!!!

Thanks so much for all the replies and suggestions. Sounds like there is lots of good apple scents out there for me to try. I'd better get busy and try them out! :whoohoo:

Contact Kris Kackley @ gateway www.gatewayfoodproducts.com They sell 444 & 464. Nice people and great service. Kris is very helpful. They are my main supplier for 415 and 416 wax. Contact Melissa @ SoyCandle www.soycandle.com They also sell the 444 & 464. They also have great service, and Melissa is very helpful also. I'm sure there is lots more great suppliers out there. Compare shipping and take it from there.

:yay:Nice job, looks great!

Munch, how much luck did you have with NS oils? This was my very first fo supplier. The scents that I got were great OOB, CT was awesome but in my wax (GB415) I got a very weak HT to no HT with all of the oils. At that time I was trying out the 700 series wicks and noticed a fuel/chemical type smell when burning my candles. I have reason to believe that the fuel smell was from those darn wicks because I detected that funny fuel type smell with all of the scents (when burned). The CT was awesome with all the scents, thats why I think the wicks might have been causing me problems. Maybe I could have gotten NS oils to work in my wax if I tried a different wick...Sooo much testing and sooo little time, patience and money. Best of luck to ya!

That's insane! For someone to go to such extreme measures to steal that much stuff they've gotta be hopped up on something. Sounds like at the rate she was going she would have maybe hurt someone to protect her stolen goods, thats just CRAZY! Glad your things were recovered.

I agree with you, I could see how self assembling could be a PITA. Based on the fact that there is such a huge market for candle wicks, it occurred to me that quite possibly priming probably originally started for the ease of tabbing and for the ease of cutting the wick to various lengths for packaging. I would think that in production, it would slow things down without the primed coating. Just a thought... I often ask myself, what have I gotten myself into!!! I'm not complaining, a good challenge can be fun and this hobby is definitely a challenge.

Thanks Top for taking the time to reply with such detailed information. It's greatly appreciated!!! :yay:Now I have a much better understanding of this wax, why it's the way it is and why it does what it does...

ooops! Sorry, Wrong thread...

Thanks KK for your input on LX and CD wicks. Every bit of input and information helps. We are all looking for those "specific" burn results and only individual testing will help one decide what they are willing to accept or not. What a journey huh?

I've been tossing this idea around for a while now, making my own wick assemblies to eliminate variables. If I was to make my own wick assemblies without priming would the only lost benefit be rigidy? Is there other benefits to a primed wick? Besides, if the wick is not primed, it will be as soon as you pour your wax anyway right?

Hi Sharon, I couldn't find a date on my wax. The only thing I found was, "use within 1 year of purchase", who knows when this soy was harvested. For now I won't concern myself too much with the appearance of my tarts as long as scent throw is good. Unfortunately, you can't always have the best of both worlds with this type of wax. I'll just keep working with it.

Top, 416 plain soy is a shortening that's hydrogenated to a greater extent, so for that reason, it makes a firmer tart with a higher mp? So basically 415 plane soy is the same only not hydrogenated to the same extent making it a softer lower mp wax? I always wondered what made 416 different from 415 even though they are both pure soy. Thanks for giving me a better understanding about this wax. Your awesome! :highfive:

:wave:Nice work, I love the tarts! If your ever in the market to sell those tart molds let me know, I'll be your first customer.

Thanks for your reply Top, you helped me to calm down a bit. I just get worked up and confused from time to time when it comes to wicking. I guess thats the name of the game. I'll be patient and continue testing until I get the type of results that I'm looking for.

Munch, I too will be getting some CD's to try with my GB415. Maybe scent throw will improve for me with these wicks.

Munch, I feel your pain. I'm fairly new to soy candles and have experienced more downs than ups with this hobby, mostly with wicking and scent throw, (the two most important features to a productive candle). I've also noticed along with a big hole in the bottom of my purse, my credit card is beginning to shrivel up LOL . :yay:Your definitely not alone. you can do it Munch! Hang in there.

I'm about 8 months new to soy candles and have lots of questions about wicking. I'll try not to ramble on too much. Okay, here we go, please bare with me. :embarasse Is there anyone that believes that a wick primed with a high 212 mp paraffin would burn different than a wick primed with 150 mp beeswax or even soy. I have done burn tests using the same wick size and series from different suppliers side by side, same wax formula, and have got different results. Maybe it's just my imagination. I'm leaning more and more toward priming and tabbing my own wicks anyway so I know more of what I'm working with and hopefully get more consistent results. I am currently using the LX series with my 415 with fo at 6-8% and no dye in various containers. So far I am pretty happy with the burning characteristics with the LX and so far my only complaint is the scent throw hasn't been very good but that doesn't mean that it's because of the wick. Recently I've been overwhelming myself and making myself crazy with nitty gritty wick details and what makes one differ from another. For some reason I've been wanting to try the CD's. Correct me if I am wrong but is the difference between these two wick series that the LX is a flat braided cotton wick with cotton stabilizing yarn threads that burns with less curling and the CD is a flat braided cotton wick with paper stabilizing filament woven in that burns with more curling? If this is the case, does the all cotton LX burn hotter than the cotton/paper CD? Is it the actual "wick size" not so much the wick series/type that makes it burn hotter or cooler? Is there a better more suitable wick type for pure soy and scent throw? Sorry for all the questions, maybe I'm causing too much stress for myself and taking this candle hobby too serious. I should stick with what is working and change it when it's not working? TIA for any advice and or opinions on this topic. OMG, I think I need to find a wickaholics support group!!!

Beautiful candle! I love green. I just might have to add a small bag of this GG to my CS order to try it out.