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Onyx-uk

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Everything posted by Onyx-uk

  1. From what we have experienced 12mm and 15mm width wicks work well for us how the thick the wick is well as always test test test to find what works for you. hth
  2. Small melt pool on the first burn use to concern me but after more testing, a second burn for me is always better with a full melt pool nearer to three hours than the two that i use to aim for, if the pool is still small after three hrs then go up a size. hth
  3. As above pour without a wick, but i also ignore the two hour melt pool theory, a decent sized melt pool today maybe a full melt pool tomorrow plus you have to factor in the wax level being lower with each burn, nothing new to the old hand but it's a science that changes like the wind.
  4. Thank TT for chiming in, checking for safety has long been standard practice long before this venture, lavender we use a lot and find it easy to work with, have not worked with many eo/natural oils but dipped my toe in as more of a learning exercise tbh, i made two eo candles to test everything the same barring oil % the results are still a bit meh for me plus the price of eo's is double ( at least ) compared to a standard FO so can't justifie spending the extra to make candles that do not perform, must dash i'm off to make some melts.
  5. Thanks for the response erronb, the supplier/s we use state that what say sell or ok for candle use so just had a try just to see really but thus far i won't be making anymore eo candles let alone try to sell them.
  6. It's tricky with standard FO's to get the stars to align, EO's just raise's the bar in difficulty plus it's a wallet emptying exercise experimenting with EO's, we use a soy/mineral blend as standard i imagine that to make it easier for a eo candle to release it's fragrance a mineral wax maybe easier, i dunno just thinking an typing.
  7. Thanks for the reply, only intend on making eo candles for our own use, with that said it makes sense to make melts instead as they release scent without issue.
  8. Whilst researching FO and EO in candles i stumbled upon a nugget of info regarding essential oil load in candles, which states less is more as in 3% is enough, i have no reason to not believe the supplier of said info but everything else that i have read states the opposite as in more than normal is required, what say ye. TIA
  9. I would test the myself and only send them out when confident that they are going to behave, not all but some will dis regard the candle care aspect or simply have no idea and may slate you and the candles if they tunnel, soot or lack in HT, i'm no expert but you can mull over my 2 bob opinion.
  10. We have had a little play with mixing bees & soy together and came to the conclusion that it is not worth the aggro for us, i'll use up what we have to make car wax to give away.
  11. Go up 1 or 2 % with the fo, use a single wick and allow a longer curing time for soy before testing the candle and add a load of patients.
  12. I don't recommend anything other than buying what you think you need plus a size up and a size down and test test test, pour three candle with no FO and test three wicks to find what works for you.
  13. CS are not the only company that is this, as frustrating as it maybe i imagine that it's beyond the control of cs, our fav FO supplies company ( based in ireland ) are doing the same as in finding another supplier for the fo's that they sell, you, us, everyone has no choice but to adapt to the change and get on with it, we are struggling to find the vessels that we use but it's pointless and a waste of energy ranting about it, find a solution and move on.
  14. A difficult question to answer with limited knowledge, but a wick that i deemed a tad to hot in the middle of summer now takes much longer to achieve a full melt pool as the ambient temps are a bit lower as the seasons changes if that makes sense.
  15. It's most probably nothing to be concerned about, i have seen similar in the rapeseed/coconut wax that i'm trying out i don't see it as a issue, the lack of ht could be fo %, or the dreaded candle nose, but before you write it off give it another burn but in a small room
  16. So far i have not found any negatives to this blend so far but i will be testing it with other FO to see how it behaves.
  17. I expected it to be a soft wax but it is very brittle, one thing i did note is that it takes a long time to cool down and set.
  18. Thanks for the replies it's helpful, i like to fully understand why and how things work, so far this candle has had one two hour burn and two three hour after curing for a week, all is well so far the next candle will most probably be a complete disaster lol.
  19. I have not used rapeseed on it's own so can't answer that one but what i will say is that no wax is easy or hard to work with they just have different quirks, you'll find what works best or to your liking by testing and trying some of the methods that the more experienced members on here share.
  20. So in an effort to learn a bit more i bought some rapeseed & coconut wax as it claims to be more eco friendly than the soy/para blend that we currently use, the test jars are 20cl, FO load 8%, using a medium size ribbon wick, the melting point of this wax is low, the whole melt mix and pour procedure was done under 140 f, any how to get to the point does a low melt point wax release fragrance ( ht ) sooner than a soy/para blend.
  21. I don't know much but what i have recently discovered is that even if the stars do align, the location of the candle can make a difference to whether you smell it or not the direction of airflow can play games with your nostrils.
  22. Hi, i have been lurking for a while as i am helping, well fully immersed in helping my better half lizzie with her candle making venture, looking forward to learning more.
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