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Found 13 results

  1. Hi all I am pouring tealights at the moment and am at the testing stage. I am using beeswax, which I bought on eBay from 'FraPete' it came in ingot bars. I am testing both silver and glass tealights. The wicks are 'Wick and Tab' Number 12 (my hashtag button doesn't work), pre-assembled and dipped in vegetable wax, I did not adhere the wicks to the bottom, and they are from All Australian Candle Making supplies and kits. The silver t/lights are 29mm high, 39mm wide and hold 25g wax. The glass t/lights are width 4.4cm, height 2.5cm, they don't specify how much wax they hold. So far I am not having a problem with the glass t/lights, but the silver ones are giving me problems with adhesion all round the sides as well as a small rectangular 'hole' in the one position at one side in all of the t/lights. I pour to the very top edge but as they cure they are sinking approx 1mm evenly across the top, this is happening with all of them whereas the glass ones are curing with a lovely even height to the top, perhaps 1mm above the edge of the glass although there is a slight dip around the wick of approx 1mm which is happening evenly and at the same height with all of the glass ones. I am melting the wax in a double boiler to 175F and pouring at 75F, stirring the wax all the time. I am finding that by the time I come to the last 4-5 t/lights, the wax is starting to become slightly creamy. I would appreciate some advice and any help would be much appreciated please as I am aiming for the perfect pour before I move on to other containers or moulds. Thank you Jo
  2. Hi, I'm a newbie here, hoping to find some help for my candle fails. I hope I haven't missed a post that already covers my problem. I'm a commercial beekeeper and have been making my own beeswax candles for a year or so. It's taken a lot of testing, fails, hair-tearing, etc. I have ALMOST got them just right - burning evenly, wick centred, no sink holes, no cracks (usually), etc. But I have one last problem which is driving me up the wall and over the other side. Sometimes - just sometimes - when the candles set, some of them come away from the jar leaving a messy residue on the glass, making them pretty well unsaleable. More for me to burn, but that's beside the point. You should be able to see what I mean in the pic I posted. The candles there are halfway through cooling, just after second pour, and just at the point of coming away from the jar. I know everyone says beeswax is not for jar candles, and I generally agree when it's 100% beeswax, but I'm adding a small amount of coconut oil to make it softer and burn better - also scent oils as well. So the wax is softer than 100% beeswax. All in all the jars work pretty well for me - except for this one problem. So generally what I do is get the wax up to 70 C in my double boiler, slowly heat the prepared jars in the oven to 150 C (because they cool quickly while pouring). Then I heat a pyrex jug for each scent, pour the wax into the jug, then mix in coconut oil and scent, pour wax into jars and replace the candles into the (now off) oven. I leave a tea towel wedged in the oven door for the first 20 mins or so, to cool the oven down to about 70 C, before leaving it to cool ever so slowly with the door shut. Then pull them out to poke holes and do a second pour about 3 hours later when they're just starting to separate from the jars. So the weird thing is, sometimes they all come out perfect - they all separate from the jars nice and cleanly, leaving no residue. But sometimes there will be one or two, or on a really bad day nearly half the candles which come away from the glass really messily, leaving all this residue stuck to the jars. And I totally don't know WHY, or what I'm doing differently to those few candles that go wrong!! It's seriously driving me MAD! Is the wax too cool when pouring, by the time I mix in the scent and coconut oil? Is there too much coconut oil? Is the oven not hot enough? Was there some residue on the glass before pouring, that I couldn't see? It would be great if someone has some input, before I tear all my hair out! Thanks in advance! :-)
  3. Ive been seeing a lot of candles that are advertised as soy + beeswax candles and Id like to give it a try. Is anyone familiar what a good ratio is - do you use unscented or natural beeswax and any suggestions on which wick series to try out. Thank you in advance
  4. TLDR: Massive cavity around wick within beeswax pillar candle, probably due to cooling and shrinking - Help needed.Hello all,I've made on some other forums without much response so thought I'd try here too. I am learning the ropes for making large pillar candles (at the moment, 3x24") and tried my first one recently. It came out with some problem on the surface with bubbles and other things, which I have been able to solve. However, when I broke the candle apart today to reuse the wax it became apparent that the problems went all the way to the core. This time I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to proceed, and would very much appreciate advice.The problem is hard to describe, so I will link pictures below: As you can see the big problem is that for the top 8" or so of the pour (bottom of the candle), there was a large cavity around the wick that seems to have formed as the candle cooled and shrunk.Here are some details of the candle and process, please let me know if further details would help. I was making a fairly large ~3x24" pillar candle with 100% beeswax. I brought about 3kg of beeswax up to about 80°C/180°F, and then poured at about 65°C/150°F. I used two pots to pour, with a minimal delay between pours (<15 seconds). In retrospect, my pouring technique caused a lot of bubbles (which may have contributed??). I also gave it a top up of about an inch after it had begun to cool after about 20min, I have since read that waiting for the candle to fully cool before topping up is best.I am at a loss as to what to do from here, and it is quite concerning that such major faults can remain hidden within the candle with no way of knowing without destroying the candle.Thanks for reading.Quidiferhalp
  5. Whats better? I am trying to get the STRONGEST smelling candles possible. Parrafin is bad for the enviorment so I can't go there. Soy in my opinion sucks. I have beeswax. I have a 3.25" candle with vybar and 1 fragrance oil of campfire scent. It smells good and if i am near it I can smell it a bit and if I walk into the room I smell it the most..but I want candles that smell strong in general no matter where I am in my room. I am reading about coconut wax and supposedly they are great for scent throw. This site says beeswax can "trap" scent, is this true? Is coconut wax the way to go?
  6. I am having tunneling problems with my candles as of late. I have tried a variety of candle wicks with natures garden beeswax pellets. Currently I am using CD 20 with my jar being 3.5 inches from corner to corner. I use vybar to enhance my fragrance. When making the candles, I heat up to 180, pour 0.5-1.0 oz of fragrance at 160, and then pour at about 150. If i pour my fragrance below 160, then it will harden up as I pour. What can I do to fix this problem? CD 20 is the biggest wick I have used and it does not cover my entire candle. Please ignore my wood chipped desk!
  7. So I had this brain storm idea that Id make lotion bars for some gifts for my sons school . I used a recipe from a book called Beeswax Alchemy and I don't know it seems a bit soft + greasy. Can someone please take a look at the recipe and tell me what you think, please. Im not good at converting % to weight, ok, I suck at it lol ! Thanks for looking. Oh, Im poring them in milky way round bee molds + placing in 2 oz tins... heres the exact recipe in the book. Also would adding a touch of cornstarch help at all in terms of greasiness - thank you again yellow beeswax - 27 g / 30.20% ( i used local beeswax from my farmers market ) virgin Coconut oil - 6g / 6.90% sweet almond oil - 12g / 13.8% ( I used apricot oil here) jojoba 12g / 13.80% ( I used meadow foam + argan) thats what I have at hand. shea butter / 10g / 10.50% (Refined) cocoa butter 12g / 10.50% mango butter 5g / 5.30% Vit E 0.1 g Im using lavender EO
  8. Hi! I'm making: 66% beeswax, 33% sustainable palm oil candles (I'm told it's sustainable, and it has the verification, but would also love to know if this is a hoax?) 2.75 inch diameter / 230 gram containers with square braid cotton wicks (currently testing #s 4,5 and 6) and a 7% EO scent load, all measured by weight not volume. The scent is added off heat, at 180 degrees. No additives. Curing for at least 7 days. My questions: 1. Hot throw is not so great - I've read that you need to add the EOs earlier on, on heat, in order for the the molecules to adequately bond together because if you add at too cool a temperature, they don't mix correctly. But then I've also read that you need to add at a lower temperature so that the scent doesn't burn off. What does your personal experience tell you? 2. How many scents do you put together for composition - I know the top/middle/base ratios, but do you guys just use three scents total, or do you find yourselves using upwards of fifteen in order to create a really full, complex scent? Any thoughts would be great, and thank you so much for your time! - GG
  9. I've already learned a lot from lurking, but now I have some questions. For these questions I'm making 3" diameter pillars with beeswax using an aluminum mold. I appreciate any and all suggestions! 1 - Any tips for cutting the wick out of the bottom of a beeswax pillar so that the bottom is flush. I've been cutting as close to the bottom as I can get, but I've still got a nub sticking out. Should I just dig my scissors in there? 2 - The method I've been using is to pour the wax into my wicked mold, allowing the beeswax to film over just a bit on the top (what will be the bottom), then poking two holes on either side of the wick with a chopstick and immediately adding a second pour. This results in a line between the two pours at the bottom, and, in some cases, the bottom layer is a bit fatter than the rest of the candle and/or seeps down the sides a little bit. Am I doing something wrong, or is there some way to remedy this after the candle is made? 3 - I'm currently using a #6 untreated braided square cotton wick that I prime myself with beeswax. This creates a wax pool that doesn't quite reach to the very edge of the 3" pillar. I actually like the raised sides/mild tunneling effect, though I'm not sure this is really how pillars are 'supposed' to burn. Thanks chandlers! -Alex
  10. I live in a narea with tons of beekeepers who sell honey, but I never see beeswax for sale. Does anyone know if they collect it and/or sell it? Maybe they throw it away?
  11. I achieved a full melt pool, however I noticed that there is still wax on the inner window of the 4.5oz candle. I am not entirely sure how to rid this issue as I am achieving the full melt pool. the wax is beeswax and coconut oil blend.
  12. My beeswax votives have preassembled 3" wicks of paraffin coated cotton. I use metal molds with removable metal pins to create the holes for inserting wicks. Some votives burn perfectly, but some have a "tunneling effect" that causes the wick to burn straight down and then go out. Is this phenomenon related to the pouring temperature of the beeswax? Or some other cause?
  13. Hello. I've outgrown my presto pots for melting beeswax. I need to melt larger volumes and have been researching melters. Does anyone have a recommendation or experience they would share? My wax comes in 2 lb. blocks from the apiary. Thanks so much
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