Billie

Hi! Back in some of the older posts, people were testing this wax when it first came out. They decided it didn't do well with beeswax or vybar. You might try pouring at different temps and see if that helps. :undecided

Beautiful photo and candles!

I think they smell stronger too. I thought it was because a tart melts all the way and a candle only melts so much at a time. Sometimes people add a little more FO because they don't have to worry about proper wicking. Billie

I think they are beautiful. I think vybar eliminates rustic and stearic creates rustic and helps to shrink wax so they come out of mold. You should probably wait for someone more experienced to come along. :smiley2:

She may have been right, she just used the Dr. House approach :tiptoe:

O.K. I guess I'm confused now. I thought tempering had to do with temperatures, heating, cooling and reheating? No? How does stirring temper the wax?Thanks

I guess that escape key finally worked Glad your back, got to keep us noobs in line.

It is with the caulking things. It is not duct tape, it is aluminum. I wick my pillars and seal real good with a piece of this tape. Even held up to pouring hot palm pillars. HTH

So far the only one Iv'e wicked well were htp 104 -8 ounce jelly jar, and htp 105 for 9.5 decoden jar. I just tried cd 20 for a 3 in. straight jar and couldn't smell anything until I blew it out. LOL It did have a full melt pool in 3 hours though, about 1/4 in. deep. I thought the htp and cd were pretty much the same but I'm going to try an htp 1212 for the 3 in. just for the heck of it. I do know that 3 in. is the max size for a single wick in soy. I am just making for me and my family so I use 1.5 ounces. Others use 1 ounce. I add FO at 175 and pour pretty cool. There is a sticky at the top of the page for scents that do well in soy, not all do. The greatest thing I have learned is to search using a plus sign + between two words. example; wicking+soy. This is what little I know for now. HTH

I don't know the answer about drilling a hole, but I use aluminum tape found at Wallyworld. One piece smoothed firmly on the bottom works everytime for me. hth

darn, forgot this http://www.essentialsupplies.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=RP-111&dept=Glass

Would these possibly fit?

Try looking at the bath and body recipies. Check out lip and body balms. HTH I've seen some pretty funny archives on wicking crisco, vasoline etc. LOL

I would probably poke a hole through the bottom for the wick and use aluminum tape to cover the wick on the outside bottom of the cans. Aluminum tape has always worked for me, no leaks, no problem.

Not what you wanted, but I think they are beautiful.

:laugh2: Good Luck

I have read on here that people used plastic because they didn't get as hot as metal. They also used something to set it on, like cork or tile so the heat wouldn't melt the wax cane.

Those are pretty. I can wick a 3 in. wide mouth with an HTP 105 using soy. It doesn't reach a full melt pool on 1st. burn but will on future burns. Don't know if this helps. I would stop about a half inch from bottom of neck but I'm no expert. LOL

OMG That is so pretty and the shells are so visible. Don't know how you did it but I wooooooont it! :rolleyes2

I have thought about unwinding the wick from the spool into the melted wax and then holding a paper towel at the edge of the pot to wipe the excess wax off as I rewind the wick back onto the spool. I haven't tried it yet so I don't know how well it would work.

I used the plastic bin and just a hammer. First slab broke in pieces with about 4 wacks, and each slab broke even faster on top of the broken wax underneath. Thanks for the suggestion. :highfive:

Still can't believe your talent and patience

Wow, they are all beautiful.

Just wanted to say I am excited for you and wish you lots of success.

So sorry, this posted twice They are really saying the same thing. Over 130 melt points such as pillars and votives-103. Melt points under 130 as in containers-260. Container soy should be under 130. Are you confusing melt point with heating temperature maybe? Not to make things more confusing but I don't add vybar to my soy, only when I work with paraffin. Others may know something different about adding vybar to soy. HTH