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Found 9 results

  1. Quick question about FO and wicks/wax. Ive tried a CSN14 in IGI 6006(parasoy) and have found that it burns really well other than a few things. It mushrooms and soots a bit a bit but also tunnels. I know that too small of a wick can cause the tunneling but I've read that soot and mushrooming identifies too large a wick. I am using 8.5% FO (as IGI 6006 says 10% is max). My question is, if I lower my FO % will this decrease the sooting and mushrooming? Also, will my HT be greatly affected? I'm not sure how much lower to go but I was considering trying 7.5%-8%. Ive ordered a size up just to see the difference and will be trying them this weekend. thank you!
  2. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  3. I recently switched from Nature's Garden Joy Wax to Naturewax C-3 in search of a cleaner burn from a 100% vegetable wax. I'm struggling with how to get a good pour/burn from this wax and hoping for suggestions from seasoned candles makers. I've read many posts and reviews and I've tried several things as a result, however I continue to have issues with tunneling. I pour in glass containers, mostly recycled bottles which have been cut, in a variety of sizes. I've used both CD and ECO wicks. I do not add color to my candles. I live in Houston, TX with ambient room temperature inside between 70-80. Here's what I've tried, all without success: Heated to 185, poured at 170 - jars room temp, covered with box after pouring Heated to 180, poured at 140 - jars heated in oven first, placed on styrofoam for pouring, covered with a plastic tote for cooling I've poured at other temps between 170-140, none have cooled with smooth tops. I've successfully used a heat gun to smooth the tops, however upon burn, the candle quickly tunnels at the wick, sometimes even extinguishing it. I've read that soy wax can be tricky to figure out, which I completely believe! However, I don't want to give up on it as it's such a clean, soot-free burn. I welcome and appreciate your suggestions
  4. Many weeks back I gave a candle to one of my neighbors to test for me. I gave her no information on it other than what was on the warning label. I didn't want to skew the results. I had forgotten about it until she showed up yesterday at my doorstep with candle in hand. I'll give you the basics first. Then I'll tell you what she reported. I'll then tell you my conclusion based on her report and my observation of the candle itself. After you've looked this over, please be brutally honest as to whether I've made the proper diagnosis. If you need more information, I'll try to provide it. The picture of the candle will be in here somewhere. The Candle: Wax: 1274 Mottled Pillar Wax 16 oz. Purchased from Community Candle Supply in Pelham, Alabama. Wick: LX 18 Dye: Liquid. Candle Science "Key West Green". 3 drops. Fragrance: 6% Load. Candle Science "Brandied Pear" Her Report: (In her words) "Smells great in the room. When you light it, there's no more smell. Wick didn't put off smoke at all." [I asked her about the bulge at the top]. (In her words) "they all do that. I just squeeze them back with my hands when that happens". My conclusion: (Based on what she said and what I saw of the candle) Good cold throw. No hot throw. Tunneling. I have this candle burning across the room from me now as I'm typing this. Nice steady flame. Very little hot throw. Air bubbles coming up from the small melt pool. Other than the bubbles which I didn't anticipate, my conclusion is that this candle is under wicked. Do I have it right or is it something else? Possibly too much dye? I readily await any and comments and I'm listening. Thank you for your help.
  5. I recently switched from IGI 6006 to Coconut Apricot Wax and initial wick testing was great. Glass jars, 3" diameter, used mostly LX 16. Issue is last batch of wax, purchased around the first of the year has been very problematic and wicks are either tunneling or leaving behind a lot of residue. Testing CD 8 & 10 currently but experiencing similar issues. Anyone else had this experience? Positive initial testing and than random issues for no apparent reason? I've been making candles for over 9 years and I'm totally baffled. Thanks!
  6. Hi there, I am brand new to candle making and to this site. I was looking for some help on figuring out what is going wrong with my soy candles! It looks like they are burning/tunneling very quickly due to air bubbles around the wick. For my soy wax I am using C-3 naturewax and melting is at 185 degrees. I am adding fragrance at 175 degrees. I also heated up the glass jars for the candles. For the first candle, I poured (slowly) at 135 degrees. The second candle I poured (slowly) at 120 degrees. I am also using ECO 10 wicks. Can anyone help me figure out what is going wrong with the candles? Thank you!
  7. I am having tunneling problems with my candles as of late. I have tried a variety of candle wicks with natures garden beeswax pellets. Currently I am using CD 20 with my jar being 3.5 inches from corner to corner. I use vybar to enhance my fragrance. When making the candles, I heat up to 180, pour 0.5-1.0 oz of fragrance at 160, and then pour at about 150. If i pour my fragrance below 160, then it will harden up as I pour. What can I do to fix this problem? CD 20 is the biggest wick I have used and it does not cover my entire candle. Please ignore my wood chipped desk!
  8. My beeswax votives have preassembled 3" wicks of paraffin coated cotton. I use metal molds with removable metal pins to create the holes for inserting wicks. Some votives burn perfectly, but some have a "tunneling effect" that causes the wick to burn straight down and then go out. Is this phenomenon related to the pouring temperature of the beeswax? Or some other cause?
  9. First, I'm a newbie to soy candlemaking--I ordered a container kit from Candelwic, and so far I'm having fun exactly following the instructions. I'm definitely not yet thinking about making my own candle shapes or anything. The question I had was about tunneling in container candles--is it really that bad? I realize it's a waste of wax, but are there any other consequences if the tunnel is wide enough to admit sufficient air for burning? The reason I ask is...I kind of like a tunneling effect. The light through the wax is warm-looking and cheerfully colored. I don't mind if they don't tunnel, but I do like it when they do, and several of the Yankee candles I've bought have done so.
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