birdcharm

Thanks! I'll try that since I happen to have some! I was thinking of RRD29 (because I have some of that size), but I'll try the CD first. I went looking for the taller 3/4" cups -- I see them at Bittercreek, but I'd have to e-mail them to ask about shipping because the $30+ estimate the shopping cart gave me just isn't going to work too well! 😄

I have a feeling that the salsa jar may require the 60/44/18, but I could be wrong about that since I've mostly used both sizes in sundae or dessert type candles in the past, not in a container, except in combo with candle gel for preserve candles. From that experience, anything around 3" got the 60.

I've been doing a little reading about the wicks used with soy wax tealights. I've never made these before, so I'm not sure where to start, but do know that I will be using a metal cup for them w/ C-3 wax. I see that the following are advised, but not sure which one might be best with this wax: TL15, LX8, Eco1, HTP31 ... any tips or pointers? (I'm primarily going to use these for samples.)

... sorry, that was supposed to be "not such a big deal if they aren't perfectly clean!"

I like to use something called a Mini Measuring Shot Glass. I use it on a scale and weigh out my fragrance oil, taking note of how much that particular scent fills the glass (there are measurement markings on the glass), then for the next time, I know how much to pour into the shot glass since I've already taken the weight. It works well if you're only making a candle or two since it's only a one-ounce glass. I place it in a paper cup to catch any spills, the paper soaks up some oil after several uses, but I'm not going through paper cups, trying to be resourceful. 🙂 For pouring pots, I just use different pots. Also, it's such a big deal if they aren't perfectly clean, you're adding new wax and scent, so I wouldn't worry much about using a heat gun and a bunch of paper towels, imho, it's not necessary ... save yourself the time & money!

It seems that the CD18 recommendation for that particular container is not exactly a good one. I see in the comments on the link page to the jar that someone made a review comment saying they tested it with a CD12 and CD14 ... that sounds better! It seems that a CD18 in that little jar is going to have a very deep melt pool and become too hot. So, a wick that is smaller would most likely be a better match.

Currently they are showing a CD12 for 464 with a container diameter of 2.7-2.94" --- a CD18 for 2.95-3.29" ... in other words, for a large jar. You have to be careful reading these charts, they are only a guideline to send you in some sort of direction, might be right sometimes, but it all depends on your container, your scent, etc. Which brings us to your fragrance oil ... what is it?

I agree that paraffin wax does not expire. If it's not stored well, it could get dusty or dirty and not be usable. So now I just did a search "shelf life of paraffin wax" -- and in the search result I keep seeing this "five year" myth on the result descriptions. Some of the sites say it does not have a shelf life, but there is definitely some sort of misinformation trend going on. I guess if you're referring to a candle (not just the wax), it could be that the scent could weaken, but I bet a paraffin candle that's decades old will burn just fine. So, anyway ... for those of you who may have been taken in by this story of the expiring paraffin wax and think your wax is going to expire any day now ... breathe a sigh of relief ... you're fine!!

I'm sure shelf life has probably been discussed here before. I saw a comment on the candlemaking board at reddit where the information is so often incorrect -- (so much so that I can barely ever read there) -- it was noted that paraffin wax has a shelf life of five years. I always thought that if you store paraffin wax properly, it can last indefinitely. I don't post there, but thought I'd mention it here just to share and see how the more experienced crafters feel about this.

That's a good idea! In regard to using nylon, I've found that it makes it shiny.

They are pretty, and I'm guessing the starfish must be made of wax, hopefully so ... for a couple of reasons, one of them being safety of the candle since starfish can soak up gel and f/o and are not safe near fire, (the other is about the live animal when collected).

It depends on the type of wax. What wax are you using?

I don't know if this information is current, as I recorded these many years ago. If the supplier has not changed their source in the last decade (!) on these, it may still hold true. Notes I made about the following scents ... these happened to be non-polar and they were clear: Candles 'n' Supplies - Blueberry, Raspberry, Potpourri, Pear, Mint Chocolate, Sweet Pea, Violet The other supplier I made notes about has a 2-lb. minimum, so I don't know if there is any interest in those or not.

I don't know anymore -- it seems that terms are switched around over the years, so probably there isn't a difference now. But, in the past, I was under the impression that what was referred to as "fizzing bath salts" or something like that, only had the mixture of citric acid and baking soda to make the fizz and the "bombs" had more ingredients such as SLS or SLSa, etc.

It seems that paraffin comes out shiny when poured hot and cooled quickly, and more matte finish if poured cooler and cooled slower. I'm not an accomplished pillar maker, but I've dabbled, and have made sand candles and some other paraffin candles or I've used paraffin to make whipped topping, and that always comes out with a flat finish, so maybe the temperature has something to do with it ...?

Have you tried moving the candle to another area? Maybe it's in the path of a draft that usually goes unnoticed ...?

It seems that people are thinking if the botanicals don't catch fire, then there isn't a safety issue. It seems to me that some of the danger lies at the end of the candle if there is residue from the leaves/petals/whatever that have absorbed liquid wax and fragrance oil, settling at the bottom of the candle. This seems to me to be a highly dangerous situation, esp. with vegetable waxes where the fragrance oil over time can flow down through the softer wax (similar with gel candles) and since regular polar fragrance oils are mostly used, what would prevent that from occurring? In other words, there could very well be a high concentration of fragrance oil at the bottom, and if it's not of a higher flashpoint and the botanicals have soaked up a bunch of it, I just think it's a fire waiting to happen.

There are clear or almost-clear oils out there, I was keeping a list years ago, but that was before sufficient information had come out about using non-polar scents with candle gel and the ones I was previously using were polar, so the list I made was probably of polar scents. After that, I switched to non-polar scents and may have kept track of which ones were nearly colorless, I would have to dig through a notebook.

I can understand if someone wants to try to support organic products, but what does this have to do with burning a candle? I'm not understanding why this question is being asked by the consumer in the way it is, which in turn would make it very difficult to answer. How is a non-organic wax really going to affect the way it burns or the air quality? And, if it does have some effect, does it make such a great difference in indoor air quality that it warrants being a consideration? On another note regarding products around children ... so commonly used ... baby oil (mineral oil) with fragrance added and petroleum jelly!

Zinc wicks usually work well since they are said to burn cooler. I think it might be better to use a container that doesn't narrow at the top too. Are you using a non-polar fragrance oil?

Those look kind of interesting, actually! I wonder if it could have anything to do with the stearic acid not incorporating fully into the wax ...? I don't make many pillar candles, but is it necessary to warm molds for pillar candles or wrap in foil? I thought that was for some container candles (although I prefer other methods than foil) and for pillars to give a lukewarm water or semi-cool water bath (w/o getting exposed wax or wick wet) to make them shiny.

Actually, HTP wicks are not the only wicks that work well with the wax you're presenting -- and, the title of thread, imo, is a bit misleading.

I would just like to add ... using your heat gun while the gel is still warm is the best way (quicker, saves $ & time!)

Never "lower temperature" on candle gel unless you want a lot of bubbles! I have not experienced this ... what density of gel is it? I would think if you just use the heat gun on the outside of the glass around the edges, it should take care of it, but air pockets in gel usually means it wasn't hot enough. What temperature are you heating it to?

It seems that any soy wax, additives or not, has the ability to display surface issues at various temperatures that it doesn't prefer.