Possible Stupid Question Alert!

[jluper7297]

Here goes.... I pour my first container candles (2) this morning using 9 oz. Hex jars, IGI 4630 wax and a different size wick in each jar. I am trying to find the right wick size for the jar. No color, no FO. Here is the question... Do I still need to wait 24 hours for the candle to cure before burning?

[JanetsCandles]

Keep in mind that your wick will change depending on color concentration and FO addition. So you'll have to retest after adding either of those as well. I usually wait 24 hours regardless, just because I'd rather stick with a system than have to change it up for every product. *shrug* I don't know if you HAVE to do that, but I do anyway.

[jluper7297]

Yes, I knew that the color & FO could change the wick. I am just trying to get a starting point. I was told here on the board that it's a good idea to test each element at a time, that way if there is any issues, it's easy to pinpoint the culprit.

[debratant]

since you are not testing for hot throw...I would light them up when they are completely cool. no need to wait for fragrance to "bind" or whatever.

[EnvyCandles]

I personally would not wait. The cure time is for fo, but since you are just looking for wicks, you should be fine. When testing for different wicks, if there is one I know will not work, I just pull the wick out (which leaves the tab in the bottom) and stick a new wick (no tab, just cut the length you need) in the hole. Don't bother repouring or anything like that. It is a good way to quickly test a different wick. HTH

[Stella1952]

For veggie waxes, I would wait 24-48 hours to allow the newly formed crystals to harden somewhat. I think it's a reasonable practice to wait 24 hours but this may not be necessary with paraffin.

Be sure to burn your testers for a prescribed time each time you burn (usually 1 hour per inch of candle diameter) & keep track of the weight of each container so that you can compute the RoC (rate of consumption) for each wick. Note any obsrvations for each burn (flame height, MP depth and diameter, wick flickering, dancing or sputtering, smoke or soot on the glass, etc.) so that you end up with a good, solid data profile upon which to base your conclusions.

When testing for different wicks, if there is one I know will not work, I just pull the wick out (which leaves the tab in the bottom) and stick a new wick

While this "short cut" may work out for seasoned candle makers, I think it is a poor practice for new folks who do not have any experience with what even constitutes testing or a good burn. Container candles burn differently each time they are lit, especially as they descend into the container. Until one really knows what they are doing, I recommend that they burn the candle all the way to the bitter end (unless it becomes a torch or drowns out completely) to see and understand how the burn changes as the candle burns.

[Scented]

I think you need to wait 12-24 hours at least to give wax proper time to cool, to set, no matter what.

[jluper7297]

I took notes on everything. I was only able to do the first burn today because I had to go to Cheer practice (my daughter, not me.. HA!) The only thing I didn't do was weight the candle. I wasn't aware I needed to do that. This is a learning process I'm sure will be neverending. I sure am having fun though!

[Lorelei]

I know somewhere maybe on the old forum there was a testing sheet? I personally would love to see how different my testing spreadsheet differs from everyone. Not looking for data itself, but how you set up your sheets.

I'm going to just play with and test a new wax and it has been a while so I thought I'd throw it out there.

[HorseScentS]

I took notes on everything. I was only able to do the first burn today because I had to go to Cheer practice (my daughter, not me.. HA!) The only thing I didn't do was weight the candle. I wasn't aware I needed to do that. This is a learning process I'm sure will be neverending. I sure am having fun though!

"weight the candle"? What's that?

[HorseScentS]

I know somewhere maybe on the old forum there was a testing sheet? I personally would love to see how different my testing spreadsheet differs from everyone. Not looking for data itself, but how you set up your sheets.

I'm going to just play with and test a new wax and it has been a while so I thought I'd throw it out there.

I was just thinking I would love to find a sheet with the questions we should answer during testing.

[jluper7297]

Oops, fat fingers... I meant weigh the candle. I have a sheet for testing that I got out of Bob Shermon's book. I saw one the other day on a supplier site that was much more detailed though

[Scented]

Weigh the finished product to help calculate burn time.

Edited June 23, 2011 by Scented

[Karen M]

I would test with fo, because FO will change the composition of the candle. I have used 9 oz hex jars with 4633 and LX 16 wicks successfully. HTH

[jluper7297]

Yikes, well I guess I should have ordered more than just zinc core wicks! LOL. Oh well, I can always order some more. And order more stuff to play with to justify shipping in my own mind (and to my hubby!)

[Stella1952]

I would test with fo, because FO will change the composition of the candle

Different FOs have different properties. Initial testing should be done with just the wax - no additives of any kind, especially if one is new to candlemaking. Each additive can potentially affect the burn properties of a candle, so it's good to have a baseline so you will know what effects each of those things actually have on your wax.

[B@BlissStreet]

"weight the candle"? What's that?

I think she meant she didn't weigh the poured product?

[SliverOfWax]

IMO, unless you intend to make unscented candles, there's absolutely no sense whatsoever in wasting wax testing an unscented candle. I can't imagine why anybody would care about the burn properties of a candle they don't ever intend to make. If you test something other than what you expect your finished product to be, all you have is a page full of useless numbers that you'll never need.

[Stella1952]

Sliver, you are not new to candlemaking and I agree - for YOU, it would be a waste of time. Honestly, I think you have been making candles for so long you've forgotten how much you DIDN'T know at the start! It's a great way for new folks to learn about their waxes. If more people did this, there would be far fewer questions on these forums. I don't want to see anyone rush to market without learning more than what works in one or two containers a a dozen FOs.

I can't imagine why anybody would care about the burn properties of a candle they don't ever intend to make

Once one has the wicking down with the container they wish to use, adding additives one at a time teaches them what affects what so that if they have problems in the future, they can go back to solid footing to discover exactly what's giving them fits. Why the heck should a newbie waste more expensive materials, such as FO, to dial in their wicking? Sure, they will have to test the actual product down the line, but new folks aren't there yet, either in their general knowledge of candlemaking nor in their specific product knowledge.

[SliverOfWax]

I've never made unscented candles for test purposes. I haven't forgotten. And since I'm not going into the wax manufacturing business, I couldn't possibly care less about the properties of my wax. All I care about is how each formula (wax + FO + dye if candles are to be colored) burns and smells.

I wouldn't make chocolate chip cookies without the chocolate chips just to see how long it takes them to bake, either.

A lot of suppliers give wick starting points. That's as good a place to start as any. As Nike says, Just Do It and stop fooling around.

And btw, I don't "dial in" anything. I add it. No dialing involved. Another silly term.

Edited June 25, 2011 by SliverOfWax

[Camay]

Once one has the wicking down with the container they wish to use, adding additives one at a time...

Once you add additives, or dye, or FO, or whatever, the wicking will probably change, so you are back to square one.

[jluper7297]

I can tell you one thing, all of this test burning is giving me an idea of how long the candles will burn for!

[SliverOfWax]

I can tell you one thing, all of this test burning is giving me an idea of how long the candles will burn for!

Yes, you must test before you sell or give your product to anyone. I don't know if that's your intent, but your candle must not only be functional, but it must be safe. It's not required that your labels have an approximate burn time, but occasionally, customers will ask. The problem is that so much is dependent on ambient conditions.

Believe me when I say it's always something, but there's really no sense dragging it out on ad infinitum.

[jluper7297]

My intent is to make a good quality candle and enjoy a hobby. If at some point down the road I felt confident enough to possibly sell them, so be it. I'm not looking for some kind of business. I'm looking for something to do that is relaxing to me.

[ChrisR]

I have privately helped many newbies over the years and have never had them make an unscented candle first and foremost.........waste of valuable wax, wicks and time!! If you're gonna make scented candles then test scented candles!

There would be far fewer questions on this forum if the search feature worked properly, or people searched google for all the great research information that's out there. I personally learned by reading the great information most candle suppliers and wax manufacturers have on their sites and googling everything else. It seems most newbies today sure don't do their homework or their own research anymore, they pretty much want it handed to them.