"Translucent Crystals" question

[Soja]

I used to use translucent crystals 20+ years ago but do not see them anywhere on the supplies pages. BUT I see them in the craft stores.

Using translucent wax in the first place (IGI 1343) is it really necessary or have they 'gone out of favor'? (My thought since I do not see them on Peaks, Candle Science, etc.)

Any comments please????

Soja

:wave:

[Asher]

I picked up a bag of translucent crystals at the craft store thinking it was stearic acid. Michael's had them in the wrong place, and I didn't know any better. From what I can tell the crystals are useless. I can't even melt the stupid things...even in 210-degree wax. The instructions say to melt them at 180, but they just sit at the bottom of the wax.

[Henryk]

The problem is that the same item can be called different things. Some places call it "transluscent crystals" --- for example:

http://www.cierracandles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1210

http://www.candlechem.com/additives.htm

The best thing to do is read the description for the additive and see if it does what you want. I think 1343 has good transparency, but not as good as 1218 IMO, and it also tends to "bow" out more than the 1218. If I want to retain transperency of the wax and harden it (I also use it to get rid of fingernailing), I use "paraflint" (which is the same thing, by a different name at http://candles.genwax.com/candle_commodity_groups/___0___candlemaking_additives.htm.)

Asher, I put my additive in a presto post first, let it liquify itself - then add some wax and let that melt and make sure they are both incorporated together (it seems I need the wax to get to about 205F), then add the rest of the wax I need and let that melt. Sort of "tempering" it, once its incorporated, the wax does not need to remain at that high temp -- works for me.

HTH

[katinka]

Hi

I use paraflint on a regular basis becuase of our hot climate in South Africa. HenryK's advice above is 100%. You have to heat it seperately to about 90 degrees celcius (I think thats about 200F) before adding it to your melted wax. Also make sure that you stir very well otherwise the carbon chains don't adhere properly to the wax and you might get seperation when you pour, which will affect the burn of your candle. I make mainly white candles becuase of our limited supplies in color here and the paraflint really makes for a snowy white candle. Also, adding about 1% paraflint is equal to about 10% stearic acid. HTH

Katinka

[Asher]

Gotta get me one of those presto pots. And a heat gun. Seems like I'm missing out on a lot by not having either of these.

I ordered some stearic acid recently and that seems to work just fine for me. Honestly, I'm not even sure that what I got at the craft store was in fact a bag of translucent crystals. They resemble something like tiny pearls. The bag didn't actually say what they were (just something generic like, "wax additive"), but they sure looked like the stuff in other nearby bags that was labelled "translucent crystals".

[Kaybee23]

Nice to see you HenryK, haven't seen you on much. That was an interesting comment about the 1343. I thought it was the most transluscent wax out there. Do you have any pictures of pillars you have made with the 1218? I want a really transluscent wax to play with. Have you also tried the 4045H from Candlewic? If you have, what are your thoughts about it in regards to the finished product. I want to play in pillars more after the first of the year and want something really transluscent.

[katinka]

Gotta get me one of those presto pots. And a heat gun. Seems like I'm missing out on a lot by not having either of these.

I ordered some stearic acid recently and that seems to work just fine for me. Honestly, I'm not even sure that what I got at the craft store was in fact a bag of translucent crystals. They resemble something like tiny pearls. The bag didn't actually say what they were (just something generic like, "wax additive"), but they sure looked like the stuff in other nearby bags that was labelled "translucent crystals".

If this is what they look like, your definitely dealing with Paraflint. They are small hard white beads that bounce all over the place when you drop it.

[Asher]

That's them for sure. Okay, so I guess I have paraflint and didn't even know it

[Henryk]

Thanks I'm still around, but don't have much time to devote to candlemaking these days .

Just as Katinka said, Paraflint DOES look like tiny white pearls. The microcyrstalline I have looks nearly identical, but the pearls are flat on one side, and the vybars look like the microcyrstalline, but larger and slightly off-whitish. My AC-A6 (luster crystals) looks like corn starch and finally the C-15 (which I get from BCN) looks like little clear cylinders (its clear, but makes your wax opaque - go figure). Asher, if what you have makes the wax opaque, its NOT paraflint but something else.

If I want to retain the transparency of the wax, I use paraflint. If I want to get a really nice white candle with a hard surface I use C-15. If you don't need the shiny white surface but a really opaque one then I would use vybar 103. I use stearic as an additive for mottles, rustics, and a certain soy container wax I use.

Here is a good link where we kind of got into a discussion on all these additives and what they do. I did post a pic of 1218, however with the flash lghting, you really can't tell, but it does glow really nice. http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4295&highlight=4045EP BTW, I no longer have to do multiple repours on this stuff - I let it cool almost completely before doing a repour and can get away with only one.

I have not tried the 4045H for one reason - I can get IGI from multiple places and I don't like to be tied to one supplier - though lately I've been tied to CS for most things. I have read the 4045H is a great wax though - so maybe one day.

EDIT: Kaybee, I did want to mention, if you have 1343 down with wicking I probably wouldn't switch over to 1218 JUST because of the transparency - its almost identical to 1343, just a wee bit clearer. The funny thing is now mostly I use a soy/paraffin blend for my pillars but I really can't do anything else with it (rustics, mottles), but I have the burns down so good that I use that mostly. The 1343 I use for rustics and mottles when I have time to actually do them. I just didn't want you to think you HAVE to have 1218 to do great transparent candles. I've made candles with 1343 sans vybar that glow VERY nicely and I wouldn't hesitate to use that instead of the 1218 for that type of candle. Actually, the 1343 seems to wick and burn a bit easier so if I was forced to choose ONE, I would probably use 1343.

[Kaybee23]

Sorry to hear your candlemaking is on hold, hope it is temporary. Not sure I can get the 1218 anywhere here locally, Lonestar doesn't carry it. May just have to stick with the 1343 and 1274 for the time being. I remember that post, was just looking at it the other day. Still like the effects in it, even though it wasn't meant to be that way. Guess I will play with the 1274 instead and see what it can do. Have a great holiday Henry.

[Henryk]

You too.

(I see we we posted about the same time so make sure you see my edit on the 1218. Yes, not many places carry it - which is usually why I just get 1343 unless I happen to be ordering from a place where they carry it - I think the last place I got mine was BCN).

I've found the 1274 mottles TOO perfectly (uniformly) for me ! Just for my taste. So, I'm going to be trying mottles with 1343 and 1218 again - when I have time.

Take care ...

[Pam W]

Henry,

You've been missed.

[Margaritamama]

becaUse of our hot climate in South Africa.

LOL - I thought that was kind of funny Katinka!!! It is so much hotter here in North Carolina than it was in Johannesburg. Summer here is hotter, winter is colder..... Every summer here I long for those wonderful Joey's summers........

Good to see you back Henry - we've missed you........:wave:

[Scented]

Another way to melt the translucent crystals is in a metal measuring cup over direct heat and then add a little bit of wax, stir and add to the rest of the mixture ... that is if you don't have a presto or want to use the presto.

[Cissy]

Is there a difference between the paraflint and the translucent crystals or are they basically the same as the descriptions seem to be which I've read on various sites? I'm looking for a container wax ( refined paraffin) which will give me a transparent glossy look. Is there any type paraffin I can use for containers, possibly with a suggested additive(s) that will give me this look? I'm sure there has to be because I've seen this look in the Home Interior container wax that I really like. I have tried soy, and don''t want the creamy look. It has been suggested that I try the J50 and the IGI 4627. After reviewing these, it sounds as if the 4627 will be too soft-looking for me. I'm still not convinced the J50 will give me this look. I'm sure both would be easier to work with because of the repours issue, but I still want to try to get this glassy, transparent look first and try the J50 & 4627 later if I am unsuccessful. Any suggestions will always be appreciated.

[SatinDucky]

That's them for sure. Okay, so I guess I have paraflint and didn't even know it

It could also be Universal additive. Mine are like small pearls, though not perfectly round. Kinda like they settled/flattened just a bit after they were made.

[topofmurrayhill]

It could also be Universal additive. Mine are like small pearls, though not perfectly round. Kinda like they settled/flattened just a bit after they were made.

He wouldn't have had a problem melting them if it was UA.

What we are talking about is Fischer-Tropsch synthethic wax. There many different kinds. The ones we use as candle additives are typically from 2 different manufacturers that brand their F-T wax product lines Paraflint and Vestowax. The candle suppliers call them Translucent Crystals and Clear Crystals. They look and work about the same. In small amounts like 1% they increase hardness and melt point without decreasing translucency much. There is no product I know of that makes paraffin more translucent.

Most paraffins are pretty translucent. There are small variations. 1343 is pretty translucent but there are many others just as translucent or more. IGI 1218 is one example but the MP is a little high for pillars. IGI 1239 is much like 1343 but I think a touch more translucent. BCN carries that one.