Soja

I do not get anywhere near that accurate. I just 'pour it in till it looks right' and have never had a problem.

When you are melting wax in your Presto Pot and you see you will not have enough, DO NOT drop in another hunk! Hot wax splashes! DUH!

Get some pictures of the fist-fight that'll break out over who gets them beauties and post them!

Pamw... Thank you so much for your input. This is exactly the kind of information I'm seeking. Since you have used GL wax, do you know if this additive of theirs works? Topofmurrayhill.... I've done palm pillars before my forced hiatus. Do a search of my posts and see what I've done. I got them to burn fine with LX wick. Pamw had the right idea. I'm just wanting to expand and try different waxes that have better characteristics. I do additives but am unhappy with some of the effects that a change in wax could fix. A long while back you posted a red mottle that was extra beautiful. This is the kind of mottle I want to get. I also want a better scent throw than I get with IGI 1343 even with additives. Really translucent wax for chunk pillars is on the list too. Can you fill me in on your experience with Soy please? Never tried it. As attractive as this suggestion is, I'm gonna have to pass on it. Thanks but no thanks. Thank you as well for your input. Soja

Ladysj... Don't we all have a little 'Fruit Cake' in us???? Soja

The trick I use to get a smooth-sided shiny pillar is when I pour it, after it's kind-a set up, I heat gun the side of the mold until I see bubbles come up around the side. You can also see around the top edges of the mold, the wax will turn liquid again . Don't heat-gun it too much, just when you can see it barely melt around the edges or when you get a couple of bubbles. It comes out really smooth and shiny. Trial and error for different waxes and molds. Soja

I'm thinking of trying some other kind of wax. (I've been using 1343) I'd like to hear what kind of wax you use and how it works... I do mostly pillars/chunks/tilted rustics. I know there is a little blurb by each wax telling me what it does but I'd like to hear from experience what, how, etc. Thanks. Soja

Scent Cellar... What wax did you change to? I have some 1343 and I'm thinking of trying something else. Soja

Yea, I agree... A little black. But I have a tip on how to cut the black. I take small, eyedropper bottles like the sample scent bottles sold by Peak. Using the eyedropper, put in 100 drops of mineral oil, scent, or some kind of oil that will mix. Put in one drop of black and shake well. Mark the bottle, "Black 100 to 1". This way it is really easy to control slight variations of black. Just use the eyedropper and count your drops for later reference. It works with any color. I find using red and blue this way is also useful. Soja

Thanks... The white dye from JBN... Does it make the wax opaque too? This sounds like the answer. Soja

Thanks for the ideas folks... My G.W. ( Gorgeous Wife) wants a white-chunk candle with transparent white overpour. I've tried a couple and the best has some pigment-white in the chunks but the overpour kind of picks up the white and isn't transparent anymore. I'd post a picture but white-on-white does not show up worth a darn. Thanks again... Soja

I'm needing to make some really blindingly white opaque wax to use as chunks. How do you get the whitest, most opaque wax you ever seen? Currently I have some IGI 1343 general purpose wax. I used some pigment dye, universal additative and steric but the SCENT gave it a yellowish color and it really wasn't white enough to begin with. Ideas please???? Thanks... Soja

When MY wax talks to me, I just increase my medication. Soja

Hia folks... Back after a long hiatus... I had about a year off then ran into some family issues, (Sickness and ultimate passing of Father in law) but I'm back now. (I missed you gals & guys) I wanted to start with a good 'Tilter' so I 'borrowed' the picture of Scent Cellar's tilted mold holder and added some ideas I had. In pic 'Tilt1' you can see I added a different 'hinge' so it would tilt WAY down. Just move the top screw (both screws are loose:cool2: to let it move) to a different hole and away you go. In pic 'Tilt2', you can see I left the top of the holes open and moved the lower brace up to accommodate molds with bases! No more buckets of beans for me! I wanted a solid, movable holder. Credit must go to Scent Cellar for posting the pic of her holder which I worked off of. Thank you Scent Cellar. Ideas?? Comments?? Death threats?? Soja

Soja here... I'm back after a years hiatus. I'm looking for tilted pillar mold holder pictures or patterns. The post here: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60309 Has given me one good pick from Scent Cellar (Thank you). This is the kind of holder I need to make but I need holders for my molds that have bases on them too. In short, any pattern or pics will help. I am not in business and I don't even sell my candles, I just give them as gifts and give them to my and my Wife's Family so I won't be commercializing on any of the holders. I would appreciate any help. Thank you. Soja

Scent Cellar... What do you do for the molds that have bases on them? Like this one: http://www.peakcandle.com/products/Round-Fluted-Mold--2-x-65__M1011.aspx Thanks. Soja

I used to do the ice candles all the time. What I did was drill out the inside so as to get all the places the water was hiding and this let all the cavities made by the ice to fill up with the second color of wax once you put the candle back into the mold. Made kind of a mess but 4 or 5 passes with a medium sized drill bit and you have it. Just don't go all the way to the bottom or out the sides. You can feel the drill go thru the cavities as you go down. Soja

Yea, cool pattern and good, rich color. LOVE that palm wax! Soja

Very rich looking colors... Do you heat-gun the mold for smooth sides??

Pour Palm wax at 200+ degrees. Thats the best temp I've found. Soja

Mozzie... It is Feathering palm wax, not the crystal or granite. Got it from Candles&supplies cause they said it was one pour. I heat it to 200+ then let it cool down to 200/210. sometimes it just lands on the right temp so I don't cool it. That does not seen to make much of a difference. I preheat the molds with a heat gun to the point of almost not being able to touch the mold. The molds are Aluminimum! The tin ones do not give the best pattern. (I get a pattern even in my alum. pour pot.) I do not wrap the mold (I did and it did not make a difference) and it cools in a cool basement; mabey 68 degrees down there. Mei-Mei... I use Candlescience bulk LX wick. (Primed) 28 on the bigger ones then go smaller as the diameter drops. All my internet rescerch says LX wick with Palm Wax. (They are right) Frequent wick trimming or you get a big flame. The wicks above are 26. The candle diameter is 3 inches. I do not know what a difference different scents make as far as burning and wicks. I just throw in 1 oz per pound of whatever Linda wants. (And whatever Linda wants, she gets... ) Soja

Just the latest... Alum. mold, heat-gunned mold, 200+ temp wax. Soja

Are the molds aluminimum or tin? I've done a bunch of testing and alum. (sp. ) is the best. Don't use tin unless thats all you have. Soja

I use wick pins and mold sealer and never have had a problem (Except when I messed with the mold and loosened the mold sealer:embarasse ) Will never use tape and wick, even if the wick stays, the chances of it moving as the candle cools are too great to take a chance on. Soja

I'm almost ready for my next order of palm wax. I would like to know from the professionals (You guys ) Which palm wax you use, your results and your suggestions as to the 'best' wax to get, and from where. I'm looking for what everyone else is looking for... Good pattern, consistancy, scent throw... etc. Please respond... BTW... This is the most awesome board! I have learned so much from you people and have been helped by some very considerate and generious crafters. My family now considers ME to be their candle expert! Thanks folks... Soja (And Linda, my wonderful wife.)