CB Advanced - Surface Crack

[Henryk]

Is anyone one else trying the new version of CB Advanced yet? I haven't poured too many because its unbearable hot here - to either pour or burn candles. I just poured more testers today and I got a small surface crack in all of them. The first set had the same issue. I fixed with a heat gun so its not a big deal - but my goal is to do a "melt and pour" type deal. I poured at temps between 175 and 145 all with the same issue.

The last time I poured this wax was the "old" version - but it was back in April and May and we weren't using air-conditioners full blast. Its so hot here it would be impossible IMHO to live let alone pour candles without it. I'm wondering if that is the problem.

The next thing to try is to pour cool, but then its back to waiting and watching temps though. Something I always wanted to get away from with soy.

Positves though: I do think the throw is stronger, and again, zero frost and even less (so far zero) wet spots compared to the "old" version. I'm trying this set with a smaller wick because so far it seems even easier to burn than the "old" version.

[Dixie]

I just poured my first one today.....it was 105 outside. I used up some of my old wax a soy blend and had to pour one cb advanced. The thow is awsome...no comparison to my old wax. I think it makes the FO's smell exactly like OOB. I did not get any cracks but I got big bumps around the wicks. I zapped them and they were fine. I think I poured too hot so next time I will be more patient. It seems like it took them forever to set up, but it smells devine!

Dixie

PS Can't wait to light that puppy up!

[Jeana]

I was told to pour the old cb 135 @ 125 degrees by a distributer to get less shrinkage and smoother surface. Maybe the advanced soy works the same if you pour it cooler.

[Marilyn]

Henryk, I was curious if you have tried the new SSwax (Surperior Soy) from Southern Scentsations? You are suppose to be able to pour at 160*. I have made jelly jars, nice smooth tops and no to little frosting pouring at that temp. I just can't tell how good the fragrance is. I've got bad candle nose. My testers say it is good, tho. Just wondering...

[Kaybee23]

lalalalalala, plugging my ears! Don't want to test new waxes again, LOL! Please let us know Marilyn how that wax works out as well. Always in the market to find that "perfect" wax.

[Marilyn]

I am sorry to say that if I poured exactly at 160* it came out beautifully smooth tops and holds colors wonderful. Except I made a deep brown for coffee and had a little bit of frosting. But all the others had no frosting. The thing I worry about is the fragrance. I am currently using EZsoy and everyone says (customers) don't change as that is the best fragrance of all the waxes. But I am in a new location now and I worry about appearance. I can't smell very well, even without candle nose, so I don't trust my own fragrance judgement. My current testers say they like the new SS. Hope that didn't get thru your plugged ears!!!

P.S. And it is way cheaper than the advanced! Altho I confess to wanting to try that also! sigh

[itsjustme]

henryk, I am still using the old Advanced - didn't order the new one yet.Decided to order when the weather cools a tad. I had a problem with the surface cracks and dimples around the wick - pretty much like your picture. Don't know if this is a real solution - but I forced myself to pour much slower ....and the cracking seemed to improve. I pour at 150, was pouring lower (135)...when I had the problem with streaky -cloudy tops. Had to reread my notes from last December when I first tested the ADV...and the 150 temp works for me, gives the glossy smooth as glass top.

The humidity in the house is playing havoc with my candlemaking now. Have been paying attention to that, found that 50-55% humidity (in the cottage - with AC on)....works well - but anything over that makes everything "iffie." Humidity level in the cottage has been way over 55 for 2 whole weeks now. It's been 78% all day, sigh - candle stuff is being shoved to the back of the kitchen utility closet.

Sort of like when I used to make peanut brittle for xmas gifts - had to cook that at the right dewpoint.Gosh Almighty - who knew sooooooo much chemistry was involved?

[Henryk]

Its now in the 90s here outside, but I have no idea what the humidity is inside with the air conditioning running. The other thing is that I'm forced to work 7 feet from the air conditioner. I tried pouring and then moving the containers to a non-airconditioned room - but that didn't work, plus I know that once you pour containers you are not supposed to move them.

I'm really thinking its this heat/air conditioning situation. I'm going to try to repour one tonight and cover it. I can tell whats happening - its cooling pretty much evenly except right under the top there is like an inch that is still dark (liquid) while the top is lighter (already solidifying). What I need to do is stop that top from cooling so fast. (I have the same issue with BW sometimes).

Other than this the wax burns great, and the look is fantastic (I'll try to post a pic or two later), so I'm not giving up yet. I may have to put it aside for a while as I don't have any options for a different working area. I have like six other IGI waxes I want to try so maybe now with these temps it would be a good time ...

[Rae Ann]

I haven't had any problems with cracking so far, its been in the 90's here too but I don't have air conditioning so that could very well be the problem. I had trouble with my candles cracking around the wick last winter when it was really cold. I was able to minimize the cracks by keeping the top from solidifying, using my heat gun to keep the tops "open" as the rest of the candle cooled. It actually worked pretty good. The only problem I'm having with this wax right now is sweating. As I mentioned, it's been in the 90's and very humid so I'm hoping this goes away when the temp goes down.

Looking forward to your test pics Henry, and hearing your opinion of this new wax as you burn a few

[Henryk]

I poured another one just to see if having the top covered while it was cooling would help. Unfortunately it didn't. I looked up our humidity and its been hovering right around 80% and actually goes up in the evening.

Rae Ann, I am also seeing some slight sweating around the edge of my containers - but I've seen that with other soy waxes too. Its just the heat.

itsjustme, I think I'm going to do the same. Put what little I have left away until I can get better conditions to use it. I've had no problems with paraffin lately (pillars) so I guess I'll go back to playing with that for now.

Thanks everyone.

(Marilyn - sorry, didn't mean to ignore your question. No, I have not tried it as its a little far from me.)

[Henryk]

It definately is the air-conditioning and hot temperatures that are affecting the setup of the wax. After I poured my last set I turned off the air-conditioning. I poured sets at 150 and at 130. I noticed both of these sets were setting up completely different than the earlier ones. With the other ones, the bottoms, sides and tops were cooling over before the center - thus causing the cave ins. With the air-conditioning off and the higher heat, the top actually stayed "open" much longer. I only got a very small hair-line circular split on the top but no cave in - 3 seconds with a heat gun and that was gone. (I'll try to post that tomorrow as I still have one that is not fixed).

[Henryk]

Here is one part way into cooling.

[Henryk]

... and even futher into the cooling.

[Henryk]

Finally one burning. FO was 4% (used a very strong FO) and 1/2 of "melon" dye chip, LX24, 2.5" container. Should note that none of the containers since I have started using this wax have any wet spots at all.

[Dixie]

I read somewhere on a board and e-mail from the company that if you are getting cracks to pour cooler. Just an FYI. I am just starting to use this wax and like it so far but need more experience with it.....so I love reading your posts!

Dixie

[Dixie]

I also wanted to mention that I had some sweat beads on the top of my candle. It went away the next day. Then yesterday I had my air conditioning turned off and the sweat beads were back. I turned on the air conditioning last night and the sweat beads were gone this morning. Is it because this wax is so oily? Or is it the FO seeping out? I used 1.5oz pp of FO. I have burned it already and the throw is excellent. If I use less FO will it compromise the throw? Just wondering what your experience is with this?

[Henryk]

Dixie, the wax is sweating simply because of the heat. Mine do the same thing. However, my paraffins do not*. If you do add too much FO or add it when the wax is not hot enough before you pour it, it will make it worse. You can also add so much that the wax just doesn't even set up right. It will only take so much depending upon how the wax is formulated. So you ask "is it because the wax is so oily? Or is it the FO seeping out?" Probably yes to either. The soys that are formulated to have no frost or be poured hotter seem to sweat just from the heat more so than just plain soy or paraffin IMHO. For instance, I took a picture of this candle made with a wax that is no longer available, but it too had more of oily feel and had no frost, and could be poured hot. This candle has NO FO in it, but the heat from the three flames caused the sweating you see.

* My paraffin mottles will sweat on the sides if they are of different heights and placed to close to the flame of another candle.

Regarding FOs. FOs have a threshold. They are only going to get so strong in wax before you are just wasting it and exacerbating the problems above and possibly be hindering throw. The article I read about this did not say the reason for that last bit, but I am inferring that it is because its stops binding with the wax correctly after a certain amount. You would actually have to test this for yourself, or sometimes the seller will actually test and post this information themselves. For instance, the one FO I used for the yellow candle below was very strong at 4%, so that is what I use with that one.

[Henryk]

As far as my CBA candles, its been a mixed blessing. I love being able to use a 100% soy for containers and having no wet spots or frost - not ever so far, and, what I believe is better cold throw, but I'm still having problems with the tops. Others have posted no problems that are using the new blend, so obviously its just my environment then. My solution is just assuming that I may need to do repours. I've poured as cool as 130F. I'll try going even lower, but my goal was to pour hotter. I may just have to go back to a paraffin/soy blend to do what I want because I'm just too impatient I guess.

[scottopus]

You might have already tried this but, have you tried to insulate the candles as they cool? This might help the top from setting up to quickly.

[Henryk]

Tried it already

[siberia]

Henryk, I had the same issue with the new CB Advanced. It is really strange because it doesn't happen to every container. Typically I'll have one out of ten cool off with a surface crack. I solved the problem with a quick zap of my heat gun on the blemish/crack.

[Terrie]

Henry, I use a wax that is 98% soy, and I have the same problems with nearly all of my containers. I either zap them with the heat gun or repour. It is a PITA, but I like my wax and really don't wanna switch. It is so frustrating, though. I feel your pain.

[Kaybee23]

I am not sure anyone else has ever noticed this, but a dia. of about more than 3" or deeper than 3" seems to make mine do that. Specially when I double wick. The 3" sq. masons I am using right now don't seem to do it as bad, if at all. I know it really doesn't pertain as much to this topic, but just something I have noticed along the way.