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Everything posted by Jeana

  1. I have an email out to them. I'll let you know when I hear back. It may not wick different.
  2. So here is the response from CS. "The formulation of Very Vanilla did not change. However, we are actively developing another version of Very Vanilla that allows a higher usage rate for body care products, although it is not available for purchase at this time." So, it didn't change, but it's going to. I guess the question now is whether the new one will wick different LOL.
  3. I sent an email, hopefully I'll hear back tomorrow.
  4. Some of these will be a little scratchy, but I've been asked to make more exfoliating soaps, so I did the colorants and herbs without infusing them this time.
  5. The last time I spoke to them about FOs, they said they were changing all of their FOs to make them all prop 65 compliant and Phthalate free. I was told that was why they discontinued some of them, because they weren't able to reformulate them to meet these standards. Maybe this scent hasn't gone through the changes yet, or it was already meeting their new standards so they didn't have to change it. I guess I need to ask them now.
  6. The website says 8/15/19. It's no longer skin safe either.
  7. Can anyone tell me if the new version of Very Vanilla from CS wicks the same as the old version? I still have some old version left and I need to do some testers, but if it's different I'll just get the new stuff.
  8. The blues are indigo, and alkanet. The oranges are a combo of paprika and turmeric. The red is Aussie clay. The tan stripe is a mix of ginger powder and ground apricot seed. The kind of burgundy color is sandalwood powder. The brown is cocoa powder. The green is a mica, but the rest of the colors are natural.
  9. This week I dug out some of my natural colorants to play with. I learned so much. It's nice to know after soaping for so many years there's still a lot to learn.
  10. Thanks for clearing that up.
  11. What’s the difference of emulsified sugar scrubs and foaming sugar scrubs?
  12. I want try making some foaming soap scrubs, mostly for myself and for gifts. I see there are a few ways to go about this. Some make their base from scratch with a mix of potassium hydroxide/sodium hydroxide. Then others use surfactants to make their base. Then there are the pre-made bases. The pre-made bases sound the best to me right now just to get started, but I don't like what I'm seeing in the ingredients. So my questions are: 1. Can anyone recommend a more natural pre-made foaming soap base? 2. Do people who make their own base prefer the surfactant method, or the KOH/NAOH method? 3. Do all the made from scratch bases need preservatives? How do you know they are working?
  13. Let me know if you like it. I hope you do.
  14. I wear mine when mixing the lye. If I'm making several batches I'll keep it on. But if it's only one or two I usually take it off, unless I'm having a bad breathing day or working with FOs. I have some asthma/allergies sometimes. I do much better with EO soaps than FO soaps.
  15. I wear glasses or my safety glasses. They are a bit awkward, but not enough to get frustrated with. My glasses are just a little off placement of where they are suppose to sit. You can get these at other places cheaper. I think one place on amazon recently had them for $15. The filters that come with them are usually not the vapor filters, you have to order them separately. The regular filters are still rated P100, but the odor filters with the charcoal make a big difference. When I'm making a lot of strong candles I still get whiffs of the scent sometimes. Just warning you because when I first got it, I was a little annoyed that the scent wasn't 100% blocked out. It still keeps me from feeling sick from all the FO fumes. I'm very scent sensitive after working with scents for so long now. I also use it when mixing my lye for soap, and when I make bath bombs. I used this mask when I was renovating parts of my house. This this is an incredible particle mask. I did a lot of sanding and cement grinding with it on, and none of that got in my lungs.
  16. Have you seen these? https://www.rockler.com/gvs-elipse-p100-half-mask-respirators?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj_XpBRCCARIsAItJiuTkR3VW8mU5rhUrxCqscB2JC-j2nz_MUB4jTR_pOEa4JJXtYXEUzJQaAiRBEALw_wcB I love this mask. I get the s/m. I used to wear the regular masks like the 3m you posted. I could never find one small enough for me, and they are hard to work with them on for a few hours at a time, they are very heavy and made my neck hurt. The filters stick out far and it's hard to see while you look down to work too. The Ellipse mask is super light weight, easy to get on and off, and the filters are close to your face so you can look down and see your work easier. I wear this mask for 3-4 hours sometimes, and it never hurts my face, or neck. You have to get the p-100 charcoal filters for the vapor protection.
  17. Where area are you located in? Shipping is very expensive from most suppliers unless you live close enough to pick orders up.
  18. Can anyone recommend a place to get a wood sign made with my logo on it? There are a ton of wood workers on Etsy but it would be nice to buy from someone who comes highly recommended.
  19. Can anyone recommend an FO that really smells like Beeswax or Honey? I have a few of them, but none of them smell very real to me.
  20. I've used both to blend with various soys. I prefer 4627. I love the look of the end product better. The adhesion is awesome, and I rarely have any cracking when it's cooler outside. I am intrigued that 4627 can be so soft, but hold up to the high temps. I tried both of them without soy, but I'm not a big fan of 100% paraffin. The FOs take on a different smell to me in 100% paraffin. So I stick with using 4627 as a blending wax. Here is how I make 4627 easier to handle. I cut the top off the plastic, then use a blow dryer (heat gun melts the plastic) to heat all the extra wax on the sides of the plastic into the wax block. Then warm the package away from the block, on all sides. Then cut the plastic all the way down, to have access to the wax. I use a very firm drywall knife to cut the wax. I have very little mess or waste with this technique. It's a little more prep time doing this routine, but it eliminates battling with a mess every time I make candles, and it goes quicker than it sounds. Also, I like 4627 better because it never changes consistency. I used 4630 for many years in my wax blend. I never knew if I was going to get a soft batch or a hard batch each time I ordered. And I always wondered if that was messing with my burns.
  21. I've been struggling with trying to figure if its worth it to buy the additive or not. i love the idea, but i'm just not sure how to come to a conclusive answer. I kind of feel like every strong candle I've burned gets rid of all the orders I've ever dealt with. And I live by people with a lot of horses. And burning even a medium throw candle allows me to be able to have my doors open on hot days LOL Keep me posted if you find anything conclusively beneficial with using the additive.
  22. Do you put the OE from CS with other scents? I can’t stand the smell of theirs. I liked the fact that the OE from CC is supposed to be used with other FOs. I was told it’s supposed to have enzymes that break down oder in it. If the only way you see a difference is with a strong FO, how do you know if the oder eliminating is coming from the OE or just the strong FO? And how are you testing the actual oder elimination? I don’t have a smelly house lol, so I’ve been just checking for a strong throw.
  23. Have you tried the one from CC? I’ve tried most of them out there too. The one from CC is the only one that smells like the real thing.
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