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scottopus

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  • Makes
    candles
  • Location
    Seminole, FL
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  • About You
    Love to make candles!

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  1. Just saw this thread today and was wondering if anyone has any updates or opinions about this insurance. I've just moved to a new state and feel like I'm back to square one in getting business insurance. This plan sounds great! Thanks!
  2. I measure my EVO dyes in grams as shown above- My cheap $24 plastic scale that I got at bed, bath, and beyond with a coupon (20% off from the Sunday paper) was on its last leg. I bought a scale that HenryK told me about. The KD-7000 Professional Digital Scale from save on scales. Using a glass dropper should work fine. I wanted something inexpensive that I could just throw away after it was empty.
  3. Did you allow the "in storage" candle come up to room temperature before burning it? If your wax/container was cold and/or you burn it a cold environment, it won't get as large as a melt pool of a candle that is completely up to room temperature. If on the second burn the candle wax and container warmed up to room temperature, the melt pool would be larger which in turn would melt the tunnel wall drowning out the wick. Just a theory that might explain what happened. I would test it out by getting another candle from the same storage area, letting in warm up entirely, then do you normal test burn. HTH
  4. Thank you HenryK for answering correctly. I got the 1 oz (0001-12) size for SKS. I do have a couple left over and I guess I could sell you some if you want to try them out. Correct. This is how I do a custom color: Get a couple of toothpicks and mark the toothpick in half with a pencil. Shake up the colors I'm going to use. Measure out a small amount of melted wax (100-150g) in a clear glass measuring cup. Dip the toothpick into the dye to the mark. Mix the melted wax with the dyed toothpick. Pour a little bit of the wax out onto a piece of marble covered with wax paper. It'll harden rather quickly giving you the finished color. Keep adding colors using a new clean toothpick each time. Be sure to record how many parts (1/2 toothpick) you use to get your custom color. Now that you have how many "parts" of each color you need, I make the premix. Here's a made up example (4 parts red, 2 parts green, 1 part yellow) This means I have a total of 7 parts (4+2+1) Since I know that a 1 oz bottle will hold up to 28, I divide 28/7 to get 4. I multiply each color by 4 to get 16 grams of red, 8 grams of green, and 4 grams of yellow. To keep it simple, use a number equal to 28 or less that will divide evenly into your total number of part such as 24 if you have 6 total parts or 25 if you have 5 total parts. I label each bottle with the premix name and date made. In my candle formula, I call out the number of premix drop per batch. Hope that helps.
  5. Another place that sells EVO dyes is Just by Nature, but they are much more expensive than Candlewic. I premix my EVO color and put them into dropper bottles.
  6. If you want 16 oz of the wax blend of 80% CBA and 20% CB 135, then 16 * .20 (20%) = 3.2 oz of CB 135 16 * .80 (80%) = 12.8 oz of CBA So you are correct
  7. I would say that a properly wick container candle after a three hour burn would have a complete or almost complete edge to edge melt pool with a depth of at least 1/4" but not deeper than 1/2". It seem to me that soy burns down first then out. If the candle still has some hang up after the thrid burn, I do another test with a wick one size larger. Another key point is how hot the container is to the touch, flame height, and how quickly you get a edge to edge melt pool. I would choose the smallest wick the meets the criteria for melt pool after a 3 hour burn.
  8. Another key to shipping in the summer is to send it out at the beginning of the week so that your package isn't sitting all weekend in a hot truck or warehouse. I've never frozen or had one of my candles frozen, but I remember threads about strange things happening to soy candles when they freeze. Here's a couple that I've found- http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3957 Old board- http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1119913533;start=13#13
  9. I would suggest a container that is between 2" to 3" wide and less than 3" tall. Containers with these dimensions are easier to wick. I started making container candles in 4 oz. quilted jelly jars since they fell within these measurements, were inexpensive (Wal-Mart), and a lot of people have experience with them.
  10. Don't know if you know this or not, KY runs a message board- http://p100.ezboard.com/bkycandlewaxsupplyincmessageboard You can never have enough information about making candles!
  11. I measure my melt pool after the 3 hours. Three hours is the amount of time that are on the burning instructions.
  12. I look through a clear ruler that is aligned to the top of melted wax to the point where it still hard.
  13. Your not mixing water and oil together, your mixing an oil (wax) with another oil (FO) together. I stir them together when I first add the FO and again before I pour (I pour hot).
  14. If I was goiny to try to use buckets, I would try only ones that are made from Vinyl (Polyvinyl Chloride or PVC) or Polypropylene (PP). These plastics will resist the corrosive effect of the FO's better. I've only used the standard metal pouring pots and glass measuring cups.
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