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I fixed the frost! I think...


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Out of 42 containers I poured of various colors, 3 red dyed ones had terrible frosting. I know it's common in soy but I still don't like how it looks. So after reading several posts I heated them in the oven and repoured at 155F...unfortunately it came back even worse. BTW, I use C3 soy wax and dye chips from Candlescience. So I came back to the forum and read about pouring C3 cooler and almost slushly. Ok, so I remelted them again and repoured at 105F and covered them with a box while cooling and they look great - right now anyway. If this works, I will always pour cool from now on. I also want to say I used the stick'ems and even while they were melting in the oven, they didn't release. They are definitely alot better than the glue dots....

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Correcting and minimizing frosting is more involved than that... keep reading old posts. Red is a common offender... as is dye chips/blocks. Adding a small amount of coconut oil and USA also helps to prevent it from forming. If the candles, however, are stored at higher temps, the candles may frost...

Glad you were able to fix this batch! :D

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Just a note to help you along. Right now there is no way to completely stop soy candles from fat blooming (Frosting).:( The trick to soy waxes is to cool them properly. In some cases pouring the candle at 160 deg F in a room that is at 75 deg F and in some cases that is pouring the candle at 105 deg F. You need to figure out what works for you and the wax that you are using. Soy waxes are not all the same and need different pouring conditions. My suggestion is to work with the wax you have to find the right conditions for your environment.

Someone told you to watch out for heat but also be aware that cold temperatures can also have an affect on the candles.:shocked2:

Tim Murphy

NatureWax Technical Services

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Tim:

Thanks for the note and info. I am using C3 and as I said, I've only experienced really bad frosting working with the red dyed candles and some blue/purple. On the days those were poured, I also poured many others and the pouring and room temp was consistent. They were all stored in the same place and several days later, the only ones that frosted were the red. With that said, I understand it may and probably will be back in future pours. However, I found it interesting that these containers now look great after being remelted and poured at cooler temps...they were previously poured at 155F. I also noticed I didn't get the sink holes pouring cooler either.

The negative, the additional time waiting for the wax to cool....sure seems like a long time. Might be time to order more pouring pots :smiley2:

Brenda

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Brenda,

I use C3 and I wait for it to cool usually between 105-125 to pour...depends on my patience that day! I do have 5 pour pots so that I can get several going at a time, it really helps save time. If you wait to put your 2nd batch in the pour pot about 5 minutes after you stir in your fo on the first batch, it will all come together where you are pouring & mixing and by the time you finish mixing fo in the 5th, the 1st is ready to pour! So it doesn't really seem like you're waiting on wax.

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Thanks everyone for all the great advice.....One more question, speaking of buying additional pouring pots. The only one I have purchased didn't come with any measuring marks. Is this typical? If some do come with them, where can I purchase....

Brenda

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O.K. I guess I'm confused now.

Stirring gently helps the wax to cool faster and also aids in tempering the wax.
I thought tempering had to do with temperatures, heating, cooling and reheating? No? How does stirring temper the wax?

Thanks

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Just a note to help you along. Right now there is no way to completely stop soy candles from fat blooming (Frosting).:( The trick to soy waxes is to cool them properly. In some cases pouring the candle at 160 deg F in a room that is at 75 deg F and in some cases that is pouring the candle at 105 deg F. You need to figure out what works for you and the wax that you are using. Soy waxes are not all the same and need different pouring conditions. My suggestion is to work with the wax you have to find the right conditions for your environment.

Someone told you to watch out for heat but also be aware that cold temperatures can also have an affect on the candles.:shocked2:

Tim Murphy

NatureWax Technical Services

Actually there is an additive called Frostop that is sold by barnloft candles that works to stop frost. I use it and it works VERY well is all my GB waxes. :D

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Can't tell if I'm just extremely lucky or what...you all seem to do exhaustive testing! Once I started adding USA, all these issues just went away. I have trouble just with a Black Cherry FO. I just do burn tests to see what the burn hours are. I get wet spots every now and then, but I just let it go...they aren't that ugly to me. I don't wash my glass, just blow out the dust! I pour fairly hot and heat gun the sink holes the next day. Viola! I also live in San Diego area, which the general weather may have something to do with it, I don't know. Keep up the good work everyone! It's fun to read about everyone's methods...we all learn so much.:smiley2:

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