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Lost on 8 oz tins


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Forrest has done some excellent work on testing 6006 with 8 oz tins and has indicated that, for the majority of his tins, a Zinc 51 seems to work well.

 

I'm not sure if it's the wax I have, the tins I am using, sea level, how I'm holding my mouth, or what shoes I'm wearing but my results aren't coming up anywhere close.  Regardless of scent or percentage I haven't had a successful (at least, what I have been considering to be successful) test on anything smaller than a Z60 on any of the scents I've tried, with that not being large enough in a lot of cases.

 

I went back to the drawing board and put together some tins with 100% 6006, no scent, no dye, aged one week with the idea that I was going to overwick them (based on what I've read about wick sizes, 8 oz tins, and 6006 wax) just to see what would happen.  The only ones I felt might not be too far out of line were the ECO 10 and the Z60.

 

In these photos are ECO 10, Zinc 60, LX 22, LX 24, CD 14, CD 16.  This was about 2.5 hours into burn #5. At this point I'm not even sure what I'm looking at.

 

I guess what would really be helpful is if someone had photos of a successful 8 oz tin wick test that they could post.  That would give me an actual idea of what I should be looking for,

 

EDIT:  Peak temps on the outside of tins at this point is 105F.

 

8 oz tins.jpg

Edited by xxxAlpha71xxx
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My last case of 6006 yielded the exact same results.  I wish I still had the box so we could compare lot #'s.  Tins and status jars that used to burn just perfectly with 51z or 60z struggled like heck and would not burn.  This is not typical of the results I used to get with 6006.  A longer cure does help somewhat, in that when the candle is newly poured the wick can't seem to draw the wax very well, and that does improve to a degree after 2-3 weeks. Still, it's definitely not the same as it used to be.  It sucked, I got fed up, and ordered a case of CBL130 from CW hoping have a similar wax that will be consistent.  Based on what I'd read, I thought it was going to be pretty much the same as 6006, but it definitely is not.  I ended up completely changing wick series and testing thru a full case to nail it down.  This craft is a struggle, for reals.

My advice...try Eco wicks, and/or ditch that wax entirely.  

ETA:  Oh wait...I see you've tried Eco, and they suck too.  In that case, just ditch the wax.

Edited by bfroberts
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Thanks @bfroberts.  I thought  I was going insane.  This is the 2nd 60 pound case of 6006 I've gotten from CS-around a month apart-and I've seen similar results with both.  I need to go check the lots and see if they are the same.   Add HTP 105 to the list.  I didn't have pics of that one but it had similar results.

 

I've got the 8 oz Elite jars from FC and they seem to work pretty well with most scents with a CD10.  I've also got some regular 8 oz Ball canning jars that I'm playing around with that seem to be doing ok with either a CD 8 or a Z51.  I messed around with some of the 12 oz Elite jars from FC and was looking at around a CD18.

 

I'm thinking that I may use the 6006 for those 8 oz jars..  For the tins, I've got some ProBlend 600 I can play around with and there's always 464.

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You are not insane.  I have a 3" tumbler and a gazillion status jars that I tried to wick with every wick in my arsenal.....zinc, LX, HTP, CD, RRD, paper, cotton, Eco.  Nothing will burn the wax.  It starts out OK, but subsequent burns are trash.  Maybe something is clogging the wicks.  IDK.   And it's not my imagination because I have plenty of candles on the shelf made with previous 6006 that burn perfectly.  Same wicks, same FO, same everything but the wax.  The zinc wicks, which is what I used primarily, have an especially hard time drawing the wax.  
I'm sure it's "within spec", as they say, but it's nearly unusable on my end.  I didn't bother complaining to the suppliers.  That never works.  
If you can wick it in any container, do that and use it up.  Then move on.  IMO, it shouldn't be this hard.

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Before I move any further on this I have to do some testing to verify that the new case of wax I just opened burns the same as the one I just emptied.  I think next order I'm just going to order 4 or 5 cases then put like 2 pounds of each case in the presto pot whenever I refill.

 

I finished up the tins in the photos last night.  Out of all of them the CD 16 (the bottom one in the photo-somehow I cut the label out of the pic) was the only one that cleaned the sides and the bottom.  On one hand well, it works...on the other it scares me because I see everyone talking about how hot tins get....but on the other hand (yeah, I had to call in a spare for this) I hit the bottom of the tin with a temp gun and even with the CD 16 didn't have a temp above 110F.   

 

@TallTayl  What wax are you using in your 8 oz tins?

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On 10/8/2019 at 1:55 PM, xxxAlpha71xxx said:

I guess what would really be helpful is if someone had photos of a successful 8 oz tin wick test that they could post.  That would give me an actual idea of what I should be looking for,

 

Sorry that this is not 8 oz tin.  This is 14 oz tin with GW 464 and 12% FO.  These pictures should give you an idea of what you should be aiming at.

Full melt pool with very clear clean wax and clean even surface after burn.  If you can achieve this, then it will give you excellent FT without getting black soot.

 

20191010_173646.thumb.jpg.5400e8471a24e3a8f73492a1f90c87d7.jpg

20191010_174540.thumb.jpg.e722ef1345e87e888531f08a97f9736e.jpg

 

20191010_181235.thumb.jpg.f117cc567c89255ec485ae16bbbe2d84.jpg

Wooden wicks are not easy to work with.  But, it is only wick that you have ability to play with its size by cutting them to your specific size needs.  Don't be afraid to start from way over wick size.  From their down size it by start cutting into smaller wick.  Have fun!

 

 

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