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xxxAlpha71xxx last won the day on July 12

xxxAlpha71xxx had the most liked content!

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About xxxAlpha71xxx

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    Imperfect Jar Candles

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  1. I just made a set that's going into my storage closet. With dye: CD8, LX18 Zinc 51 WI 755 HTP 104 ECO 8 Did another CD8 without dye. See you in a couple of weeks.
  2. I *know* I need an intervention. I woke up yesterday morning and told my wife that someone had emailed me and told me that a Premier 765 would work perfect in an 8 oz tin. When you start dreaming about candles and wicks....well, the first step is you have to realize and admit that you have a problem
  3. Left to right CD 8, 10, and 12. The CD 8 cleaned up very well. The CD 10 and 12 left quite a bit of wax in the corners. Should I be happy with what I'm seeing on the CD8 even if it never achieved a "full melt pool"?
  4. I'm not even really sure what I should be looking for at this point. Using any wick I try I *never* achieve a full melt pool. However, CD8, CD10, and CD12 will all clean up the sides by the time they are finished. Should I be content with that or should I be looking for that elusive pool of melted wax that runs from one side of the tin to the other?
  5. That they are. I have a set I started testing this morning. 8 oz tin 6006 wax 185/170 7% Candle Science Day at the Spa CS Blue liquid dye Cured 1 week 76F room temp It's early but after first burn out of the CD's the CD 8 and CD 10 have equal melt pools, larger than CD12. CD8 and CD10 are mushrooming pretty badly and the CD12 has none. Be interesting to see how these do as they burn lower. I'm taking pics of these as I go. If they're interesting at all I'll put them together and post them so you can give me some of your expert advice on what I'm seeing.
  6. I've actually seen the same thing. A CD 12 in my 8 oz tin just burrows a hole down through the middle leaving a good 3/8" + wax ring around the sides. A CD 8 however, while not necessarily making a nice melt all the way across, leaves much less wax on the sides and cleans that up pretty well as it burns lower. I just decided to stick with the CD 8s.
  7. When you guys perform wick testing on multiple candles concurrently how far apart are you spacing your containers? I see a lot of wick testing on YouTube where they have 10, 15, 20 candles on a table all crowded up next to one another. It seems that would skew the results because the heat given off by the candles is going to increase the air temperature in the immediate vicinity to much more than what the air temp around a candle burning by itself would be.
  8. I am so grateful to you for this list. I've now actually done a set of burns from the bottom of the list to the top in an 8 oz tin and the visuals have caused me to reevaluate a lot of the assumptions I had made about wick sizes. The one major thing I've realized is that it is possible for a candle to be overwicked and not reach a full melt pool. In a lot of instances I had started with a larger wick than required then, when I didn't get a full melt pool, kept going up and up when I really should have been using a smaller wick than the original. I had a container/scent combo that seemed to require a CD16-18. When I went back and started smaller (as you recommended from the very begining-sorry, I can be a bit hard headed) and moved up the list I hit a winner at Zinc 60. It seems that some of the larger wicks were melting so fast in the center that the heat wasn't having a chance to reach the edges. Same thing with a different container-CD 8 but actually worked better going down to an HTP 83. Changing that perspective put me into a place where I also found that zinc wicks don't actually mushroom as bad as what I had seen previously because I'm no longer overwicking. It was really frustrating to see that no matter what scent, no matter what percentage, no matter what dye every 8 oz tin I did seemed to require a larger wick than anything on this list. Now that I've actually seen how each of these wicks burn (and quit trimming them down to pretty much a nub) my testing is now lining up much better with what I've read from you and others. This list has been a huge part of finally getting my head wrapped around how different wicks and sizes perform and I've been able to get through some of that frustration. Thanks everyone that's put time and effort into this!
  9. Where do you think a Zinc 36 would fit in this list?
  10. Another thing that I've found works well-and what in using now-is just a plain old pair of wire cutters Something like this.
  11. While my wife and I absolutely can't stand it I've made a few and given them out to friends who love it. Guess it's just not something my nose enjoys because other people seem to.
  12. Post Revival Time: I've been fighting this issue since I started this. One of the larger candle manufacturers (I won't mention their name but it rhymes with Yankee Candle) suggests 1/8" wick length, so tha't's what I've been doing. It's been killing me because no matter what I did, no matter what wax, no matter what fragrance, percentage or dye my wick needs didn't match hardly anything I had seen browsing through the board. Looking at the wick list Forrest made the smallest wick I needed for an 8 oz tin was larger than the largest wick on their list. I know there are differences as variables change but it just didn't make sense to me that every combination I tried was way out of the top side of that list.....until two days ago. I took a few candles to my wife and told her to trim them as if she had just bought them and brought them home. Yep, more like 1/4" or so. Made a huge difference and the tins are now testing more in line with the results that Forrest published.
  13. I'm playing around with some of your designs (and thank you very much!) but I was actually looking at 4 oz tins. I was working on my first top to bottom burns and it was looking like I was going to have a lot of wax left on the sides and in the corners at the bottom. Was thinking about glue to lower the wick to give it a bit longer to burn and clean up that wax. However, they burned *much* longer than I expected they were going to and cleaned themselves up by the time they were done. I tried glueing some wicks in using some hot glue my wife had. The minute I went to center them after the pour I ended up holding them in my hand at the glue didn't stand up to 170 very well. That's why I was looking at high temp glue. However, as the problem I was expecting didn't appear I'm just going to stick with what I was doing. I'll let you know how things go with the centering device once I get it made. If it works as well as it appears that it will it might be something you should consider marketing. Those centering devices that CS sells have limited functionality. The manufacturer is supposedly willing to resize them but the emails I sent to the included address all bounced so I eventually ended up sizing it to the sizes I needed myself (yay, Dremel).
  14. Hey there, I know some of you are using hot glue to set your wicks. I'm going to play around with this a bit and was wondering if any of you had any recommendations on what I should be looking for as far as temperature resistance goes. Even better would be a link to a suitable product. Thanks!
  15. I did a bit of research yesterday. I'm going to give an air purifier a shot. The one I ordered is around 26 inches tall and will fit in one of the corners right under our kitchen bar. It says filter replacement every 6 months. I'm sure with my use I will never get to the 6 month point without requiring replacement but even if I have to replace a 20.00 filter every 3 months I'm still better off that a 20 dollar filter every two weeks. I'll report back.
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